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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello guys, I am living in Japan and got 63SS small block 283 3speed AT recently. My ChevyII runs well and looks nice. I love it. It's quite rare in Japan.

I know I should read some articles about this issue. I am doing but I could not find out the reason. Also my English reading is low level. Could you give me any suggestion or recommended link?

Issue is...
Engine does not start after drove. For example, when I try restart after stopped by gasoline station. It's easy to start when the engine cold.
So I replaced the distributor, sparkplugs, plug wire and ignition coil. However it doesn't change. Sometime It restart after 3 or 4 times turned the key for start. A few times it did not restart and need to wait the engine become cold.

What should I check next step?

Postscript : Starter is cranking but hard to start the engine. It turns over but does not start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check your starter, It sounds like a hot start problem with the solenoid being close to to the exhaust.
Thank you for this information.
This link explained about "starter doesn't work when hot engine"?
My starter is working and cranking but the engine does not start sometime. Sorry I should write it.
 

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1970 chevy nova
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My first thought is starter like the above poster mentioned its a common thing for the starter solenoid to get too hot in these especially if you are running headers, you can add a heat shield around the solenoid. And they do make kits I believe to move the solenoid off the starter and onto the firewall.
 

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do you have access to ether or starting fluid? you could try that during hard starts. If its starts with ether the issue could be fuel, evaporation or vapor lock. if ether doenst have a effect, you issue could be ignition related.
just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you for helpful suggestions and kindness. I will check these things.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Can you tell us what kind of distributor you have in your car?.... Points?... HEI?.... Electronic Conversion?

You need three things for the engine to fire... Air, Fuel, and Spark.
The next time your car does not start, remove the gas cap and listen for a "sucking air" sound. If you hear this type of sound when you remove the gas cap, the gas tank is not venting properly as you are driving and creating a vacuum in the tank. Remove the gas cap and drive the car. If the problem does not reappear, get a vented gas cap for your car.

If the gas tank/cap seems fine, remove the air cleaner and look down the carb's throttle bores as you move/open the throttle lever. Do you see gas squirting from the accelerator nozzle?
  • No - Possible causes are fuel vapor lock from engine heat or bad fuel pump. A fuel pressure gauge would be helpful to further troubleshoot.
  • Yes - see next suggestion.
Remove a spark plug wire from a spark plug and install a loose/extra spark plug into this wires spark plug boot and hold the spark plug thread against an engine ground surface. Crank over the engine. Do you see a spark across the plug's electrode?
  • No - Possible issue with ignition system. More troubleshooting required.
  • Yes - What are you gaping your plugs at? To much of a gap may fire the spark plug in open air (removed from the cylinder as described above), but may not fire when trying to ignite under compression/heat.
Let us know what you find out.
 

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What type of carburetor is on the engine? Is it an Edelbrock by chance? Some styles of carburetors have issues with heat once run. Some will drip fuel past certain points, others will vapor lock, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Can you tell us what kind of distributor you have in your car?.... Points?... HEI?.... Electronic Conversion?

You need three things for the engine to fire... Air, Fuel, and Spark.
The next time your car does not start, remove the gas cap and listen for a "sucking air" sound. If you hear this type of sound when you remove the gas cap, the gas tank is not venting properly as you are driving and creating a vacuum in the tank. Remove the gas cap and drive the car. If the problem does not reappear, get a vented gas cap for your car.

If the gas tank/cap seems fine, remove the air cleaner and look down the carb's throttle bores as you move/open the throttle lever. Do you see gas squirting from the accelerator nozzle?
  • No - Possible causes are fuel vapor lock from engine heat or bad fuel pump. A fuel pressure gauge would be helpful to further troubleshoot.
  • Yes - see next suggestion.
Remove a spark plug wire from a spark plug and install a loose/extra spark plug into this wires spark plug boot and hold the spark plug thread against an engine ground surface. Crank over the engine. Do you see a spark across the plug's electrode?
  • No - Possible issue with ignition system. More troubleshooting required.
  • Yes - What are you gaping your plugs at? To much of a gap may fire the spark plug in open air (removed from the cylinder as described above), but may not fire when trying to ignite under compression/heat.
Let us know what you find out.
Thank you for a lot!
Distributor is HEI.

I try to check the gas cap and spark plug. I was thinking about venting... Okay I should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What type of carburetor is on the engine? Is it an Edelbrock by chance? Some styles of carburetors have issues with heat once run. Some will drip fuel past certain points, others will vapor lock, etc.
I appreciate your kindness,
How about Edelbrock 1406?
I should research about these also.
 

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I appreciate your kindness,
How about Edelbrock 1406?
I should research about these also.
Ah, as I had guessed! The Edelbrock carburetors have an unusual issue where they tend to leak fuel into the intake manifold when hot, causing hard starting when hot. I had this exact issue with an Edelbrock 1406 on another car; started fine cold, ran around town okay, but if you turned it off when it was hot, and it sat for 10+ minutes... it would be miserable to start. It ended up being that the fuel pressure supplied to the carburetor was too high, forcing fuel past the needle and seat, causing it to drip into the intake and cause fuel to puddle until the pressure was relieved. Installed a regulator and the issue disappeared.

There are others who have had similar issues; I read someplace that the air bleeds in the carburetor can be dirty causing fuel to leak. Make sure you have a good fuel filter before the carburetor as well, to ensure no trash gets pushed into it causing it to leak!

Hope this helps!
 

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1963 Chevy II 2 door hardtop
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An overly hot fuel line can also pressure up pushing fuel past the needle and seat causing the engine to flood. Been there done that :)
 

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When I had my carb it would be hard to start when hot and only stopped for minutes, heat shield and wooden spacer helped a lot. EFI solved the problem but that is an undertaking in itself.
 

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These engines and fuel systems are very prone to vapor lock. I have a modified 283 in my 1963 Nova SS and it did a very similar thing especially after it gets hot. My 1963 Nova 302 in high school also did it. Is the fuel line coming from the fuel pump to the carburetor bare steel? On both my 1963 Nova V8s I did a fuel things that helped 1. replace the bare steel fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb with something else or shield it. 2. I ran two fuel pumps an electric near the fuel tank and the normal mechanical. I put a switch under the dash to shut off the electric one so I can turn on the key sometimes without it running. 3. You will need to run a fuel regulator between the carb and the fuel pump as you will get two much fuel pressure running both pumps. In my high school car I just ran a good electric that was mounted on the side by the firewall but still had to run the fuel pressure regulator. I tried the carb spacers shielding etc ... nothing worked as good as running both fuel pumps.
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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All very good 'replies' ................... easy install , is a carb spacer (maybe for carb heat soak , at the carb) .

But , my 1st thought was . . . . do these starters use the " R " terminal on the starter solenoid . . . . up
to the ign. coil . . . ? (since it's cranking OK , spinning over ) . (depends on HEI / or not ? ) .


I know that I un-hooked that R terminal wire at my Chevy six solenoid (once - - forgot too hook that wire back up) ................. and , took me two days trying too start my motor ; before I remembered .
It would start - - - if you let go of the key , at the right second .


Inno . . . . a nice 63SS you have . . . . (y) .

jim
 
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