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Discussion Starter #1
I just became the owner of a T-56 from an '05 - '06 GTO. My brother has an '06 GTO and he picked it up for me from a guy on a GTO forum. I've been hunting on and off for a while and now that I have it it's time to start the research to learn what it's going to take to get it into my car.

It's going to be a couple of projects down the list, so I have time. If anyone has information, or can lead me to the best posts where I can find information, please feel free to share what you know.

Here's some basic info that might be relevant:
The car is a '69, currently running a 383 (late 80's roller block) with a 700-R4. I know that it's going to require some surgery to the trans tunnel, and I'm prepared (emotionally) for that. I have a floor-shift column and pedals that I've collected in preparation for the swap, but that's about all. My current plan is to use the engine that's in the car, but I'm not opposed to doing an LS swap in the future, so I'm keeping my options open.

Thanks in advance for any information, advice, moral support.

Gerry
 

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I've a welder here if you're of need Gerry, keep it as long as you'd like. I'm a lousy welder or I'd offer my services, if you've a buddy or yourself, it's yours to use anytime.

I've a full tank of gas too...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've a welder here if you're of need Gerry, keep it as long as you'd like. I'm a lousy welder or I'd offer my services, if you've a buddy or yourself, it's yours to use anytime.

I've a full tank of gas too...
I'll keep it in mind, that could come in handy.

Thanks, Johnny,

Gerry
 

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So your swap is gonna be slightly different than mine but I documented mine with pics in my build thread. First you wont have to murder the tunnel as much as I did because my body mounts are super short. Second your shifter will be in a different spot. But the basics you need to consider are:

1. Tunnel Mod
2. Trans mount and crossmember
3. Clutch master cylinder and mount
4. Slave cylinder remote bleed line


1. Tunnel Mod


http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2820513#post2820513

Speedtech sells a prefabd tunnel top now to make it easy.


http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=364/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd364.htm


Trans mount and crossmember


The hooker swap one is awesome I recommend it. You'll also need a urethane mount as well, its listed in the instructions.

Hooker 12626HKR

https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/mounts_and_crossmembers/crossmembers/parts/12626HKR


Clutch master cylinder and mount


Related build thread posts:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3849425#post3849425

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3868746#post3868746

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3872330#post3872330

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4029674#post4029674

I didn't like the factory LS clutch master. It is known not to push enough fluid at high RPM to work the slave properly. Additionally the rod end needs to be cut off and a new one welded one, which sucks because the stock master is non-rebuildable with a plastic body. You can buy aftermarket ones, they are like $250, but I was being cheap so I built my own from a universal Tilton. Your choice really.

For a bracket since the master sits at a funky angle, I bought the ATS/Speedtech one.

http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=255/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd255.htm

Slave cylinder remote bleed line

Bleeding an LS slave is a PITA. You will need a remote bleed line. Trust me.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-remote-clutch-speedbleeder-line-for-97-04-corvette-z06-04-06-gto-98-02-camaro-firebird-ls1/
 

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I'm running a LS1 w/05 GTO T56 and GTO bell housing. If you don't already know it the LS1 starter will not fit the GTO bell - the shape of the nose on the starter is a little different and GTO starters are more expensive. At the time I did mine (a few years ago) there were no aftermarket starters any vendor would guarantee would fit so I was left with buying the more expensive GTO oem starter. There may be now. But if you are running a Gen 1 SBC this might not even be an issue.

The question has been raised before about running a LS1 bell rather than the GTO bell which would allow using the more common less expensive starter but I have not heard a definitive answer to that. -Bob
 

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Gerry, I've a helmet, gloves and I might still have a big enough chunk of 18ga steel to do your floor, plus scraps if you'd like to practice...

Anytime you need it, it's yours, no time frame on return, take your time.
 

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I just became the owner of a T-56 from an '05 - '06 GTO. My brother has an '06 GTO and he picked it up for me from a guy on a GTO forum. I've been hunting on and off for a while and now that I have it it's time to start the research to learn what it's going to take to get it into my car.

It's going to be a couple of projects down the list, so I have time. If anyone has information, or can lead me to the best posts where I can find information, please feel free to share what you know.

Here's some basic info that might be relevant:
The car is a '69, currently running a 383 (late 80's roller block) with a 700-R4. I know that it's going to require some surgery to the trans tunnel, and I'm prepared (emotionally) for that. I have a floor-shift column and pedals that I've collected in preparation for the swap, but that's about all. My current plan is to use the engine that's in the car, but I'm not opposed to doing an LS swap in the future, so I'm keeping my options open.

Thanks in advance for any information, advice, moral support.

Gerry
Let me know when you go to work on this, I could come over and help. I have an 06 GTO as well and can look around on forums, if you have any questions on parts.
 

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If you plan on using this behind a SBC, there are some additional issue that arise due to the difference in bellhousing and input shaft lengths between the SBC and LSx. The easiest, albeit expensive, route to deal with it would be to use a Quicktime RM-6023 bellhousing, which adapts the LS T56 to the SBC/BBC.

You will also want to ditch the stock GTO shifter. There are a couple marketed for the GTO that use a direct linkage and to which you could bolt a Hurst stick. Otherwise, to use an F-Body shifter you will also need to swap the offset lever at the end of the shift rail for the F-Body part since the GTO one uses a different offset length. This is a fairly easy swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So your swap is gonna be slightly different than mine but I documented mine with pics in my build thread. First you wont have to murder the tunnel as much as I did because my body mounts are super short. Second your shifter will be in a different spot. But the basics you need to consider are:

1. Tunnel Mod
2. Trans mount and crossmember
3. Clutch master cylinder and mount
4. Slave cylinder remote bleed line


1. Tunnel Mod


http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2820513#post2820513

Speedtech sells a prefabd tunnel top now to make it easy.


http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=364/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd364.htm


Trans mount and crossmember


The hooker swap one is awesome I recommend it. You'll also need a urethane mount as well, its listed in the instructions.

Hooker 12626HKR

https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/mounts_and_crossmembers/crossmembers/parts/12626HKR


Clutch master cylinder and mount


Related build thread posts:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3849425#post3849425

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3868746#post3868746

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3872330#post3872330

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4029674#post4029674

I didn't like the factory LS clutch master. It is known not to push enough fluid at high RPM to work the slave properly. Additionally the rod end needs to be cut off and a new one welded one, which sucks because the stock master is non-rebuildable with a plastic body. You can buy aftermarket ones, they are like $250, but I was being cheap so I built my own from a universal Tilton. Your choice really.

For a bracket since the master sits at a funky angle, I bought the ATS/Speedtech one.

http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=255/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd255.htm

Slave cylinder remote bleed line

Bleeding an LS slave is a PITA. You will need a remote bleed line. Trust me.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-remote-clutch-speedbleeder-line-for-97-04-corvette-z06-04-06-gto-98-02-camaro-firebird-ls1/
Thanks, Jeremy, I really appreciate all of that info.


I'm running a LS1 w/05 GTO T56 and GTO bell housing. If you don't already know it the LS1 starter will not fit the GTO bell - the shape of the nose on the starter is a little different and GTO starters are more expensive. At the time I did mine (a few years ago) there were no aftermarket starters any vendor would guarantee would fit so I was left with buying the more expensive GTO oem starter. There may be now. But if you are running a Gen 1 SBC this might not even be an issue.

The question has been raised before about running a LS1 bell rather than the GTO bell which would allow using the more common less expensive starter but I have not heard a definitive answer to that. -Bob
More good info. Thanks, Bob

Gerry, I've a helmet, gloves and I might still have a big enough chunk of 18ga steel to do your floor, plus scraps if you'd like to practice...

Anytime you need it, it's yours, no time frame on return, take your time.
I'll be stopping by, Johnny. Thanks again.


Let me know when you go to work on this, I could come over and help. I have an 06 GTO as well and can look around on forums, if you have any questions on parts.
Long time no see, Mike. Thanks for the offer, I'd appreciate the help when I get to that point.

If you plan on using this behind a SBC, there are some additional issue that arise due to the difference in bellhousing and input shaft lengths between the SBC and LSx. The easiest, albeit expensive, route to deal with it would be to use a bellhousing, which adapts the LS T56 to the SBC/BBC.

You will also want to ditch the stock GTO shifter. There are a couple marketed for the GTO that use a direct linkage and to which you could bolt a Hurst stick. Otherwise, to use an F-Body shifter you will also need to swap the offset lever at the end of the shift rail for the F-Body part since the GTO one uses a different offset length. This is a fairly easy swap.
For the time being, I'm doing my initial research and planning around my Gen.1 SBC, so I'll be looking at aftermarket bell housings/scatter shields for that platform. But you're not kidding, that QuickTime unit ain't cheap! I don't know what else is out there, but if that's what I have to do then I guess I'll just have to suck it up and do it.

I'm still open to an LS swap. If a smokin' deal comes along that's too good to pass up, then that could change everything. But at this point it's still just on my wish list.

My brother didn't like the stock shifter either. I don't remember what brand shifter he replaced it with, but he's pretty happy with it. I drove the car before and after the shifter upgrade and the new one is much tighter and more positive. And, since I'm tall and have my seat further back than most people, I'd prefer to have the shifter further back, too.

Thanks, Mike.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As mentioned in the first post, this trans is used. My brother wants to rebuild his and, since mine is just sitting on the floor in my garage, I suggested that he have mine done and give me his when he pulls it out. He likes the idea of no down-time, so that's how it will go.

He found a reputable guy to do the work. He's within a short drive from me, but hours away from my brother, so I'll be delivering at both ends of the line.

The big question is, what are the most important parts to replace in a rebuild?

The builder listed the following:
Carbon/Kevlar synchros, billet 3-4 keys, all new bearings, plastic fork pads, front & rear seals. Bronze fork pads are optional (+$110). According to the builder, plastic fork pads are fine for street cars.

The parts list seems fairly comprehensive, as long as nothing is trashed inside (we'll find out soon enough). The extra $110 for bronze fork pads seems like a reasonable upgrade.

When my brother's trans comes out, I'll be sending it in for the same treatment to get it ready for my car, assuming that his works out okay.

What else should I be looking out for?

By the way, the all-in price, including labor and upgrading to the bronze fork tips, is around $1,500.

Thanks,

Gerry
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey gerry-
If you want to see what's involved I document my t56 rebuild here.

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4047546#post4047546

All in all that's an average price. Tick performance has a rebuilding service where the shipping is covered both ways.

I upgraded to billet keys, bronze pads, bearings and the better shift fork.
Thanks, Jeremy, I'll read through that later. My brother and I looked at Tick Performance the last time I was at his place, they've got some really cool stuff. It's so easy to get sucked in to the higher level builds with all the REM finishing and cryogenic treatments, each option is just a few hundred more, right? I had to take a step back and cool off, I was getting too excited! I had to remind myself that the price for that package is more than a new trans.

I appreciate the info. By the way, I've been following your build, it's fantastic, and I've learned a lot.

Gerry
 

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Jeremy, I just read through your T-56 how-to and realized that I'd read through it before. It's encouraging, but I don't have a press. So, if this guy's work turns out well for my brother, I might use him too.

I have been tempted to try it myself, and I have time, so we'll see which way I go with it. I've always wanted a press in my garage.

Gerry
 

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Thanks, Jeremy, I'll read through that later. My brother and I looked at Tick Performance the last time I was at his place, they've got some really cool stuff. It's so easy to get sucked in to the higher level builds with all the REM finishing and cryogenic treatments, each option is just a few hundred more, right? I had to take a step back and cool off, I was getting too excited! I had to remind myself that the price for that package is more than a new trans.

I appreciate the info. By the way, I've been following your build, it's fantastic, and I've learned a lot.

Gerry
Yeah I bought a stage 2 parts kit and bearings from Tick to do mine. Right around black Friday they usually offer around $200 off. Last year the sale went through the new year.

Thank you.

Jeremy, I just read through your T-56 how-to and realized that I'd read through it before. It's encouraging, but I don't have a press. So, if this guy's work turns out well for my brother, I might use him too.

I have been tempted to try it myself, and I have time, so we'll see which way I go with it. I've always wanted a press in my garage.

Gerry
Honestly the 20 ton harbor freight press is great for the money, that is what I would buy if I didn't get the free one I have. My neighbor has it and I have used it several times.

If you do it yourself, spare round pieces of steel of varying sizes are necessary to press the bearings on. Multiple size bearing separators are required too.

Also you can download the T56 service manual for free.
 

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Yeah I bought a stage 2 parts kit and bearings from Tick to do mine. Right around black Friday they usually offer around $200 off. Last year the sale went through the new year.

Thank you.



Honestly the 20 ton harbor freight press is great for the money, that is what I would buy if I didn't get the free one I have. My neighbor has it and I have used it several times.

If you do it yourself, spare round pieces of steel of varying sizes are necessary to press the bearings on. Multiple size bearing separators are required too.

Also you can download the T56 service manual for free.
Thanks again, Jeremy, I'll have a look at the Tick kit. Since my brother is doing his first, I'll give him a heads up, too.

Gerry
 

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Do I know you------

you just building a new car seems like---- 4link, 8.8, T-56,....... lol
just pulling your cord.... you are going to be busy this winter... aren't u

all sounds good to me, and, I like your car this way now

later jim
 

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if your looking for new clutch kit I have a new Diamond extreme clutch for the T56 and pressure plate good for 650 plus horse i didn't use will sell for $450 plus ship it cost me over $700
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Do I know you------

you just building a new car seems like---- 4link, 8.8, T-56,....... lol
just pulling your cord.... you are going to be busy this winter... aren't u

all sounds good to me, and, I like your car this way now

later jim
Yeah, Jim, but like we discussed the other day, it's just one thing at a time. But it'll get there eventually.

Gerry
 

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The viper input shaft is a good upgrade while youre there. Maybe have your bother check out ls1gto.com for any input from those guys on their trans. I know some guys have issues and build them but mine has been fine at 500+ RWHP. I have the MGW-P shifter by proxes in my GTO and love it. Another good one is the billet but its more expensive.
 
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