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Custom Jim comes through again: he loaned me his Lincoln Weld-Pak 100, recently converted to Mig, so I can take care of some of my rust issues.



He even made this nifty cart for it, complete with an outlet box.

I bought a small tank of welding mix from the local welding supply place, and a cheap auto-darkening mask on ebay (only $35, and it works well).

After practicing the basics over at Jim's, I brought it home and ran a few test beads on a scrap chunk of floor pan, mostly to make sure that my wiring could handle it. Success!



Knocked off the e-coat, set my clamp, ran some beads. The floor pan is about 18 gauge, most of the other sheet metal is around 20. The 3-B setting was probably not hot enough, but by going slow, I got penetration.




On the less expensive welders, you basically just have a few levels of wire speed and voltage to choose from. Over at Jim's, we noticed that it was very easy to blow through the 20 gauge at level C. B seems just about right.

My plan is to do many test pieces in different configurations and positions before I ever weld on the car itself. I'll post updates to this thread as I go.
 

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Here's some of the job that I have ahead of me:

My car spent much of its life in the Seattle area, and much of that outside. All those cool pine needles and rain did a wonderful job on my cowl sides. Here's what I found when I removed the fenders.


And when I cut open the cowl sides: Oh, joy!! :rolleyes:


Fortunately, novajoe came through with some donor cowl sides. I took them apart with spotweld cutters, and cut my patches. The precision of my cutting leaves a bit to be desired, but it will work. Both sides are rusted to almost exactly the same degree.
 

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And, to add to the fun, the front passenger side floor pan is rusted out as well. I took this picture without a flash, so you can see the light. :D

You can also see the rotted cowl/kick panel vent from the inside. Ain't old cars great?

Most of the bad stuff has been cut away here, but I'll put the cowl back together bfore I go further with it, just to make sure that front outside corner stays in place. If you look, you can get an idea of how much crud gets thrown up into the subframe over the years.
 

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I've got the same welder (with a gas bottle). Bought it for welding patches and replacing the floor braces. It has more than paid for itself for that job alone, not to mention all of the other things I've repaired and fabricated since.

By the looks of it so far, you seem to be doing a great. Like SuperSport said, let's see some pics when you are finished.
 

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Igosplut said:
Watch those auto-darkening maskes, especially the cheap ones. If they time-out, or just malfuction you end up starting to weld without them tinting. I used one for a short while and it always seemed to shut down and I would be welding for two seconds before I caught it.....
I was skeptical about it too, and I've read about expensive masks doing the same thing, but I gave it a shot, because this seller has well over 7000 perfect feedback, and the masks seem to be all he sells:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200013348523

I'm very paranoid about my eyes, so if it starts to hesitate at all, I'll trash it. The Cee Kay welding supply a couple of miles from me has all the name brands. So far so good though.
 

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Greg,
I love seeing "welding in progress" pics !!! Instead of finished only pictures, because it gives a sense that others have/are going/doing what I am do/have done.

Currious...Why did you choose to leave the seem in the floor? Was it because of the contour?



Keep the pics coming !!!
They are inspiring !!!

:)
-Brent Thomas
Ohio
 

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BTHOMAS67Wagon said:
Greg,
I love seeing "welding in progress" pics !!! Instead of finished only pictures, because it gives a sense that others have/are going/doing what I am do/have done.

Currious...Why did you choose to leave the seem in the floor? Was it because of the contour?



Keep the pics coming !!!
They are inspiring !!!

:)
-Brent Thomas
Ohio
The only reason I did that is to hold the bottom of the kick panel in place while I put it back together. The rightmost side of what you circled is the bottom of the kick panel vent. At the moment, the whole outer skin of it, what sits under the fender, has been removed. So, in order to keep that bottom edge of the kick panel vent area exactly where it should be, the seam will stay intact until I put the outer skin of the cowl back on. In the meantime, I get practice cutting spotwelds, trimming metal, etc..
 

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Gotcha !!

I have an auto-darkening helmet my dad gave me, but have thought about buying something nicer because I worry about my eyes as well. They are just so darn expensive. Of course, less expensive then my eye sight, but still expensive !!

Is it just me, or did anyone else laugh at the animated gif too ?!?!


:)
-Brent Thomas
Ohio
 

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i guess that's proof of a GOOD welding unit VS: a crappy one... my welding improved BIG TIME just having the right hood so i could use 2 hands... but NONE of my welds look as purdy as yours...

Good Job Greg, i wish ya luck and hope ya get r done soon ;)
 

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JohnnyRotten said:
i guess that's proof of a GOOD welding unit VS: a crappy one... my welding improved BIG TIME just having the right hood so i could use 2 hands... but NONE of my welds look as purdy as yours...

Good Job Greg, i wish ya luck and hope ya get r done soon ;)
Johnny, I know you've got a big welding thread around here somewhere. What brand of welder do you have?
 

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There is some good stuff in there, thanks! Forgot about that one.

Hey, if I have a wood workbench that I want to practice welding on (on top of, not the bench itself :rolleyes: ), but I would prefer not to set it on fire, what should I cover it with? Would a welding blanket be able to take the heat?
 
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