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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I removed my Hedman 1.5" primary tube headers and installed my Hooker Super Comps yesterday. What a PITA. It probably took me 9 hours and that did not include re-installing an exhaust system. There is a lot to be said for those smaller tube headers. First of all they can be installed and removed with the engine bolted to the mounts. That is more than I can say for the Hookers. The exit position is about 10" further back than the Hedman's. I thought I could simply shorten the pipes between the mufflers and the collectors and temporarily reinstall the old exhaust system. It turns out the angles are all wrong and this would not work. I now need to decide what to put on. I've been thinking about reducers to a universal X pipe to Dynomax Super Turbos exiting at the rear axle. I do not think any of the mass produced tailpipes will work on station wagons. I fired her up today in the garage with them uncorked. At least one neighbor noticed.

A couple of the plugs are very difficult to get to. I think it might have been Mike Goble or someone else who published a photo of a box end wrench that was extra deep on one end. That is exactly what I need.

I also searched and found these three on the internet but I could not find anything like Mike posted.

The first one is reasonable priced but only appears to available in 13/16 size, otherwise it would be perfect.

The second one doesn't look like you can use a box end wrench on it.

The third one looks read good, but is pretty expensive. but I'll probably have to try and order from them anyway.
http://www.headersockets.com/index.html

Anyone else find a good little tool for tight plugs for headers?

By the way, I cannot imagine how you guys with 1 3/4" headers get the plugs in and out, yet alone a big block.
 

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I took a box end wrench and heated it up with a torch and custom-bent it to remove my one hard to get at plug. It's almost as easy to remove as the rest of them now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was thinking that if I could get a couple of inexpensive 12 point box end wrenches, I could cut one of the boxes off and weld it stacked to the other wrench. That would work well too.
 

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Spark plug wrench!
Made by gear wrench "gear ratchet"



 

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1.5 tubers

I had a set of those Hedmans before i switched to fenderwells. Only thing i didn't like about them is how short #7 and #8 were. I saw something the other day and wished i would have saved it , where somebody added some length to the pipes before the collector and added some tubing to #7 amd #8 to make it look more even
 

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I asked about the 1 3/4 headers a while back and I saw pics of some that looked alright to change plugs with minimal hassle. Don't remember if they were hookers or hedmans. Either way I would go to the local parts store and buy a plug socket and cut it down or slice it like the one in you pic. Forget paying $40 for a socket. I use a craftsman 5/8" plug socket and a box end wrench. Maybe a gear wrench would work too. I don't know what heads you got and if they're angle plug or straight plug and can you use the shorty header plugs by accel?
 

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Not sure why some with first and second gens talk about removing the the motor mounts. Pop the tie rods loose from the drag link and remove the drag link. With car lifted high enough in the front both headers can be installed from under the car, no oil filter and no starter of course. I have had much practice and seem to do header and motor removal too often.

The pass through rachet and socket is the way too go on plug removal. Advance has a cheaper version with and offset on the rachet and it works much better. Works on both Hooker 1-5/8 and 1-3/4.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the idea of the pass through socket, that shoudl work perfectly. I'll have to see if they carry it at my Advance Auto.
 

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I just put the set up. It's made by Pro-Am and comes in black carry case for about 30 bucks. The offset rachet takes the cake.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I wimped out on the X pipe. I was checking a number of sites and Jeggs and Summit to see what looked like it would work and what I could afford to spend. I just couldn't ignore the summit 3" header back kit that includes their Turbo mufflers for about $200 bucks. It has the reducer/cones built into the front pipe which cleans up the install a bit. I was a little concerned about the positioning of the x-pipe below the driveshaft. It is hard to picture without having it in front of you. Unfortunately they do not offer the same system with an x pipe, the price jumps way up, so this will get the job done for now. I have been running the Summit 2 1/4" turbo mufflers for 7 or 8 years. They have lasted a long time and sound OK. The difference between the system with the mufflers and without the mufflers is only about $30 so if I want a change in sound later, I haven't given up much. Should be here tomorrow, or Wed at the latest.
 

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Well I wimped out on the X pipe. I was checking a number of sites and Jeggs and Summit to see what looked like it would work and what I could afford to spend. I just couldn't ignore the summit 3" header back kit that includes their Turbo mufflers for about $200 bucks. It has the reducer/cones built into the front pipe which cleans up the install a bit. I was a little concerned about the positioning of the x-pipe below the driveshaft. It is hard to picture without having it in front of you. Unfortunately they do not offer the same system with an x pipe, the price jumps way up, so this will get the job done for now. I have been running the Summit 2 1/4" turbo mufflers for 7 or 8 years. They have lasted a long time and sound OK. The difference between the system with the mufflers and without the mufflers is only about $30 so if I want a change in sound later, I haven't given up much. Should be here tomorrow, or Wed at the latest.
I have hookers and the summit exhaust, and am very happy with the set up for the price.
 

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These headers?



I got the driver side out with only removing the drag link and spark plugs. I was able to leave the oil filter in. It barely squeaks by the steering box:eek: I have not tried to remove the passenger side though. As far as the plugs go I don’t seem to have a problem changing them with standard craftman sockets and wrenches. I have strait plug dart pro1 heads. I sure like the concept of that wrench Big Al has:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
They look like the same headers. I cannot even get my 3/8 drive SP socket on a few of the plugs due to interference with the tubes. It probably would have been good to have the car higher up, but I had what I had. I'll keep that in mind for the next time though.

Strange but the car even sounds different with these headers opened up than it did with the others.
 

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I do my plugs from the bottom, very easy to get at. Here is a pic of my driver side. The front two are easy to get at from the top as long as you start with the front one.
 
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