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I went with the Sniper. Stock fuel tank with Holley in-tank fuel pump/guage unit. No return fuel line required. Installation was fairly simple. Tuning has been a learning experience but Holley forum has some good folks to help. Have about 700 miles on it and gotten better the more its driven.

I would recommend getting the extended throttle linkage bracket as it significantly reduces the stiffness in gas pedal. Also used 1 inch spacer under throttle body as it was recommended.
good advice on the spacer. I may do that now.
 

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Ive run a sniper on my C10 since may of 2019, couple test drives to town and back as shake down runs, then hit the long haul Hot Rod power tour. Running a mild 350/700r4 combo, 2000 stall, comp cam, headers, dual exhaust, with 3:42 gears, 30" tall rear tires. Truck never skipped a beat, ran about 2 grand on the interstate in OD with converter locked, operated perfectly in traffic, never above 190 degrees in traffic. starts great and as great idle quality. I put 2305 miles round trip, the truck averaged 18.7 mpg over the entire trip. None of the prior carbs, edelbrock TVS, holley 3310, and a street demon ever were this drive able, nor came close in mileage per gallon....12 was the best previously with the holley 3310. Holley Sniper was the absolute best upgrade I ever did to my truck...have had to replace the O2 sensor once, easy fix! Love the sniper so much, there is one going on my 67 V8 conversion......do it if you want to drive it! Keep the carb on it if you need an excuse for it to sit in the garage!
 

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Regarding the fuel starvation using the stock tank with In tank Holley return less setup. If my tank is less than 1/2 full its a major issue. Since the Holley had to be cut a bit for this application I am nervous about getting the Tanks Inc version. Anyone chime in that has done that conversion?
 

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Zero issue with the Tanks Inc tank and fuel issue. I ran out of gas due to the car's wiring to the fuel gauge. There was no indication I was out of fuel until the tank was empty. Fixed the wire connection and all is fine.
The Holley setup is the one with the wicking material on the inlet? If it is, then it sounds like the wicking material has come off.
 

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Zero issue with the Tanks Inc tank and fuel issue. I ran out of gas due to the car's wiring to the fuel gauge. There was no indication I was out of fuel until the tank was empty. Fixed the wire connection and all is fine.
The Holley setup is the one with the wicking material on the inlet? If it is, then it sounds like the wicking material has come off.
Waiting for my rear to get finished I am going to drop the tank and check.
 

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I have done three FiTech swaps. One was an Olds 425 with T400. One was a 71 C10 mild 350 with T350. One was a 70 Camaro with a nasty 383 4 speed. I have used the MSD on my 67 Buick wagon 340 with 200r4.

They all have warts. I would recommend a return style system. It makes the fuel pump work more efficiently and less pressure fluctuations. I would get one with electric fan and timing control. I have had one issue with a bad injector on the FiTech. One call and they very quickly sent a free replacement. All of these setups minus the Olds have done Power Tour, 8x with my Buick. Take your time with research and installation. It will leave you with a old car that starts/ runs like brand new. It will make you smile every time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I have done three FiTech swaps. One was an Olds 425 with T400. One was a 71 C10 mild 350 with T350. One was a 70 Camaro with a nasty 383 4 speed. I have used the MSD on my 67 Buick wagon 340 with 200r4.

They all have warts. I would recommend a return style system. It makes the fuel pump work more efficiently and less pressure fluctuations. I would get one with electric fan and timing control. I have had one issue with a bad injector on the FiTech. One call and they very quickly sent a free replacement. All of these setups minus the Olds have done Power Tour, 8x with my Buick. Take your time with research and installation. It will leave you with a old car that starts/ runs like brand new. It will make you smile every time.
When you say you used the MSD on your 67 Buick - Is that the MSD Atomic? I am actually looking right now at the Atomic 2 (a 4 connection set up), although the Atomic 1 has 8 connections and provisions for fans and even nitrous (not my interest). What perks me about this is I am running a 2004-R Art Carr built trans without lockup. The Atomic has provisions for a 200-4r etc.

My biggest concern from research is any RF noise from ignition getting in the way of the unit. Just spoke with shop local and the owner is insistent that Holley etc have "worked out" the kinks for RF noise since the "early units".

I think im settling on a 4 wire unit (like the Sniper, Atomic 2) as I do not need all the extras with the Terminator, Atomic, etc (aka a separate control module), a 1 inch spacer, a Tanks Inc tank with a return line (although the Atomic kit says it does not need one because of the type of fuel pump in the kit???) etc.
 

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Re RF noise: I do a complete resto on my 3rd gen with new harness and my Pontiac ohc6 will get a Holley Sniper. During research of course also read about noise issues. Run then across a remote tuning guy who has a few webinars - one covering positivs and grounds!

he is certain when you separate high and low current staff already from the battery, you will not have any RF noise issues! And Sniper anyhow need to go to positiv and ground on battery.

I will follow his recommendations and than lets see.

re Tanks inc tank: i would prefer over the stock tank with pump and mesh material. But they are sold out since month
 

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1969 Chevy Nova 540 big block with a Tremec TKO 6 spd Ford 9” with 389 gears
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Hey guys - for 2022 I think I am moving to the bolt on EFI solution. I am pretty sold on the Sniper EFI unless you tell me otherwise.

My question(s) are:

1) If you converted to EFI, which did you go with and why?
2) Did your setup require a new fuel tank (i.e. return pressure line)? Or did you simply install a pump that does it all?

The install itself seems easy enough, with 4 things to wire ( +, - , O2, Ignition)...but it looks also like a return line from the tank needs to be installed (makes sense since pressurized).

Any advice is blessed. Thanks!
So, I have a question for the group. I’ve read and been told. That if I have a stick car,6 spd. I’m better off with the pro flow set up? Because the other systems have a hard time “self learning “ due to the stick car?? Anyone have any feedback on this?
 

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So, I have a question for the group. I’ve read and been told. That if I have a stick car,6 spd. I’m better off with the pro flow set up? Because the other systems have a hard time “self learning “ due to the stick car?? Anyone have any feedback on this?
I have read countless blogs and reference docs on the same thing and it's typically caused by the throttle opening and closing repeatedly throughout the driving process with a manual trans car. An automatic self-adjusts as the throttle (TPS) stays typically open (or within a close span) to a specific point while the transmission does its thing and shifts to final MPH/KPH/RPM. I chose to go with the port-injected Pro-Flo for that very reason and had returned two other TBI systems before installation after reading more and more about that very issue. I would rather not fight the constant struggles I saw/read others face with the manual trans. There is for sure anecdotal story out there however it makes good sense for the smaller, self-tune systems where they cannot possibly learn the throttle positions over and over as we decide to lay our foot into it over and over at different RPMs but, I may be wrong here too... The Pro-Flo just seemed to me to solve that issue and after heading over to the Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 forum, Nate (admin) really gave out some great info on the process. I'll see if I can locate a link for you. Here's a link to the main forum page for your perusal :)

Not trying to sell anyone on the PF4, it just makes much more sense to me unless you really want to go full tilt and get a real, laptop tune-able injection system...
 

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1969 Chevy Nova 540 big block with a Tremec TKO 6 spd Ford 9” with 389 gears
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I have read countless blogs and reference docs on the same thing and it's typically caused by the throttle opening and closing repeatedly throughout the driving process with a manual trans car. An automatic self-adjusts as the throttle (TPS) stays typically open (or within a close span) to a specific point while the transmission does its thing and shifts to final MPH/KPH/RPM. I chose to go with the port-injected Pro-Flo for that very reason and had returned two other TBI systems before installation after reading more and more about that very issue. I would rather not fight the constant struggles I saw/read others face with the manual trans. There is for sure anecdotal story out there however it makes good sense for the smaller, self-tune systems where they cannot possibly learn the throttle positions over and over as we decide to lay our foot into it over and over at different RPMs but, I may be wrong here too... The Pro-Flo just seemed to me to solve that issue and after heading over to the Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 forum, Nate (admin) really gave out some great info on the process. I'll see if I can locate a link for you. Here's a link to the main forum page for your perusal :)

Not trying to sell anyone on the PF4, it just makes much more sense to me unless you really want to go full tilt and get a real, laptop tune-able injection system...
AWESOME… thanks … this one of the many reasons. That I LOVE this site. Others with the same gear head “disease” helping each other out
 

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AWESOME… thanks … this one of the many reasons. That I LOVE this site. Others with the same gear head “disease” helping each other out
Damn skippy! We're all infected! Lol :p Many many great people here with fantastic advice. I have learned so much in such a short time.
 
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