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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys - for 2022 I think I am moving to the bolt on EFI solution. I am pretty sold on the Sniper EFI unless you tell me otherwise.

My question(s) are:

1) If you converted to EFI, which did you go with and why?
2) Did your setup require a new fuel tank (i.e. return pressure line)? Or did you simply install a pump that does it all?

The install itself seems easy enough, with 4 things to wire ( +, - , O2, Ignition)...but it looks also like a return line from the tank needs to be installed (makes sense since pressurized).

Any advice is blessed. Thanks!
 

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Hey guys - for 2022 I think I am moving to the bolt on EFI solution. I am pretty sold on the Sniper EFI unless you tell me otherwise.

My question(s) are:

1) If you converted to EFI, which did you go with and why?
2) Did your setup require a new fuel tank (i.e. return pressure line)? Or did you simply install a pump that does it all?

The install itself seems easy enough, with 4 things to wire ( +, - , O2, Ignition)...but it looks also like a return line from the tank needs to be installed (makes sense since pressurized).

Any advice is blessed. Thanks!
I put the sniper on my 67 350/4 speed nova
Don’t let any wires from the ecu overlap each other and make excellent separate grounds.
Fires right up. Very responsive.
 

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1967 Nova SS
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I went with the Sniper. Stock fuel tank with Holley in-tank fuel pump/guage unit. No return fuel line required. Installation was fairly simple. Tuning has been a learning experience but Holley forum has some good folks to help. Have about 700 miles on it and gotten better the more its driven.

I would recommend getting the extended throttle linkage bracket as it significantly reduces the stiffness in gas pedal. Also used 1 inch spacer under throttle body as it was recommended.
 

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whatever system you decide to go with, it is IMPERATIVE to follow the above suggestions and make absolutely certain your O2 sensor is correctly placed and that all exhaust leaks are sealed and non-existent before AND after the sensor placement within about 20-24" at least. The biggest complaint I hear from installers is the return of the car to the shop due to erratic behaviors only to find out the owner took off the headers or collector and caused an exhaust leak into the system creating a variation in the correct ohms into the O2 reading to the computer, causing usually an over-rich condition and bogs, poor mileage and terrible performance. Make absolutely certain the fuel pressure is what it is supposed to be and don't purchase an "ebay" regulator... Don't skimp out on that... Ignition is also terribly important and as was said above by @Sooner1 , make sure your wires are not crossing or overlapping, keep them all away from anything to do with ignition, other power supplies, coils or radio, HOME RUN THE POWER LEAD DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY or follow the instructions on the power from the system instructions to the letter, and yes, again as was stated, GOOD SOLID GROUNDS ARE MANDATORY!!!

I went a different way with the Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 and an Aeromotive Stealth II tank with -8 and -6 fuel lines but read countless articles, blogs, tech mags, watched hours and hours of videos and these are typically the main issues with the installations gone awry. Not usually the systems themselves but the installation or mods after it.

Good luck!! :)
~Andy
 

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I am with Andy above. I did the Pro flo 4 with aeromotive tank. I ran an additional hard fuel line for the return. Only advice is use the suggested MSD coil not the Edelbrock Pro Flo coil. Mine laid and egg after 300 miles on my way to track day. Needless to say, I keep an extra coil in the trunk now. I am very happy with the system other than that.
 

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Terminator Stealth, Rick's Tanks stainless tank with in tank pump, mount that ecu in the car so you can keep it away from heat and less problems with rfi than the Sniper. I've done battle with the Sniper and while I feel it's ok, in the end the Terminator was far less problematic.
 

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I did exactly what "railroaderman" did. Follow the directions and take your time. You will have to tinker with it and then you will find the sweet spot.
 

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I have the Terminator on my car. I have helped install or installed several. If you have a MSD or other spark amplifier box I would stay away from the Sniper. The built in ECU, while making it easier to install, can have RFI issues and the MSD box seems to make it worse. If I wanted to stay in the thousand to twelve hunderish range I would go with the Sniper Stealth or Atomic by MSD. It has a separate ECU that you can mount inside the car.

I have installed two Sniper units with MSD boxes. One ran fine with no problems. The other has random RFI issues once every blue moon. If you do put a MSD box in your car with a Sniper mount it as far away from the throttle body and firewall as you can and as already stated keep all your fuel injection wires away from your ignition wires.

I have a friend that has spent hours trying to make a Sniper work on a four wheel drive truck. I've tried to help him but I think the only way to make it work is going to tear out all the wiring and move the MSD box away from the cowl area and separate all his wiring. I know there are thousands of them out there but I don't think I'd buy one.

If you are going to put fuel injection on I'd buy a new fuel injection tank. Several ways to go on pumps and regulators and I honestly think any of them can be made to work.
 

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i went with Holley Sniper for the ease of installation and the support. I had a few issues but the Holley tech got me up and running pretty fast.
I went with a Tanks Inc tank and pump. Sniper needs a return line and the Tanks Inc Nova tank is set up for LS conversion which has the needed return and the pump puts out enough pressure. I’d suggest getting a fuel pressure gauge for it too. Get one from Jegs…cheap and easy to help diagnose running issues. Ran a -6 AN in-line fitting with the Jegs gauge and cost less than $25. I’d run aluminum line instead of the rubber under the car. I used about 8 foot total of rubber line between my tank and Sniper unit. Adds to the cost, but I don’t have to worry about abrasion leaks.
 

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I went with the Sniper. Stock fuel tank with Holley in-tank fuel pump/guage unit. No return fuel line required. Installation was fairly simple. Tuning has been a learning experience but Holley forum has some good folks to help. Have about 700 miles on it and gotten better the more its driven.

I would recommend getting the extended throttle linkage bracket as it significantly reduces the stiffness in gas pedal. Also used 1 inch spacer under throttle body as it was recommended.
than you don't have something for baffling to prevent fuel pump starvation, or have you? Or is this a topic it doesn't relay matter?

Because than I would also reuse the stock fuel tank for my Sniper installation. my engine got already featured on the Holley facebook and insta page :D
 

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i went with Holley Sniper for the ease of installation and the support. I had a few issues but the Holley tech got me up and running pretty fast.
I went with a Tanks Inc tank and pump. Sniper needs a return line and the Tanks Inc Nova tank is set up for LS conversion which has the needed return and the pump puts out enough pressure. I’d suggest getting a fuel pressure gauge for it too. Get one from Jegs…cheap and easy to help diagnose running issues. Ran a -6 AN in-line fitting with the Jegs gauge and cost less than $25. I’d run aluminum line instead of the rubber under the car. I used about 8 foot total of rubber line between my tank and Sniper unit. Adds to the cost, but I don’t have to worry about abrasion leaks.
Aluminum lines are not recommended because of potential cracking eventually from fuel pulsations. A Corvette filter/regulator can be used near the the Tanks Inc tank. It has the return line port so the return line doesn't need to be very long nor go to the Sniper unit. It is also a regulator and the fuel that goes to the Sniper is 58 psi. Fuel pressure gauge is a good idea but only as proof of required pressure while looking at it under the hood. If there is pressure issues while driving then won't do much for yo unless you have a camera on it recording pressure maintenance. If you have an isolated pressure gauge then you can wtness pressure all the time.
 

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than you don't have something for baffling to prevent fuel pump starvation, or have you? Or is this a topic it doesn't relay matter?

Because than I would also reuse the stock fuel tank for my Sniper installation. my engine got already featured on the Holley facebook and insta page :D
The Holley pump includes wicking material on the fuel pickup. Without this then non baffled tanks can potentially experience occasional momentary fuel starvation.
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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I used FiTech on my 63 SS with a Tanks Inc fuel tank. It was pretty easy to install even for a computer illiterate like myself. I loved everything about it except it made the throttle VERY stiff for my liking. Nothing like being able to stand outside and reach through the window to cold start your car
 

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There have been many success stories on the Sniper. There have also been many problems with the Sniper. I would go with the Exterminator as it seems to have far less issues. Ignition interference seems to be the main problem with the Sniper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The responses here are amazing and appreciate this community! I currently have an MSD ignition set up (with just about everything under dash, opposite the firewall. Don't judge, I know I need to redo the connectors lol), so yeah I'll want to make sure im protected against issues it sounds like the Sniper will have. I will look at the Terminator and others. I really appreciate this feedback everyone.

Circuit component Motor vehicle Gas Electrical wiring Auto part

Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior
 

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I used FiTech on my 63 SS with a Tanks Inc fuel tank. It was pretty easy to install even for a computer illiterate like myself. I loved everything about it except it made the throttle VERY stiff for my liking. Nothing like being able to stand outside and reach through the window to cold start your car
If you aren't using the upper large hole for the throttle connection, then that will help. An adapter needs to be made or bought to make it happen.
 

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I have some experience and some post on this board asking for help. Most of my issues were user/installer related. Once I got it working it has been working fine.
Edit: I have the whole hyperspark system and I bought the fuel tank as well.
 
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