Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay, I have a budget in mind for paint and I want to be honest...IT'S NOT MUCH.

So I am doing all of the prep possible myself. I am hand sanding it down to original primer and carefully filling and pulling dents along the way. Once straight and clean I will shoot some Etching Primer I found at the local Pro Paint Store. Finally I will re-sand to prepare the car for I what I hope will be a decent spray job at the local Maaco Paint Blasters.

I am going to try to work it out so that they paint the entire car (wagon) doorjambs and all.
I might even try to remove the hood and front fenders get them to paint them separately. They I will haul all of it home (two blocks from my house) and carefully reassemble.

Has anyone had good luck on a strict budget like mine. I hope to pay 500-700 dollars max?

James
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,563 Posts
Sounds like you are on the right track. :yes:

Lots of people have had good luck doing their own prep, then having the car shot at Maaco or similar.

The best thing to ask Maaco is if the primer you are using is compatable with their paint. Be sure to use the same brand as the topcoat and make sure it is compatable!

FYI - etching primers are usually used for bare metal. You may want a different primer... ask your paint shop about it.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,132 Posts
Etch primer is for bare metal as posted.
It has virtually no fill properties and is not designed to be sanded.
Etch is covered by primer-surfacer whis does the filling and needs to be sanded.
Also as posted, check with Maaco for compatible primers.
Remember that you get what you pay for, you will not get perfection for
that price but you can get a decent looking driver.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
996 Posts
you could also ask around at the local paint store if they know anyone that paints cars. might be able to find someone out of work that will paint your car.

i know people that have done their own prep and got good driver paint jobs from the cheap paint job places
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
you could also ask around at the local paint store if they know anyone that paints cars. might be able to find someone out of work that will paint your car.
Like me, I've been laid off for just over a month now. As soon as I get my engine hauled down to my engine rebuilder, and the truck out of the garage, I may look into doing a paint job for someone else again. With the economy like it is, some shops are likely hurting or people out of work, so may be a time when you could find a good deal.
But with that kind of budget, you may just be limited to maaco and doing your own prep to get the best possible job within that kind of budget.
Even having little overhead, good materials for a complete can easily run around a grand not to mention all the time involved to do proper prep. That price range would, maybe if lucky, could get a cheaper single stage urethane sprayed, which could possibly last 5 years or so depending on how uv resistant the color is and how prep is done, if the bodywork and prep needed is very minimal. But by the time you figure in tape, primers, sanpaper, wax and grease remover compound, and any other supplies you would use along with the paint, very likely your going to get close to your figures, with labor not even figured in yet.
Another thing, many, myself included do not like to paint over someone elses work, and have our name on it. In this very example is a good reason why many feel this way. The fact you were planning to use etch primer to primer is one good reason why. Spend years learning how to do a quality job, good materials to use, and what works together, and if a paint job soon blows up and looks like hell because materials like etch primer, 1k spot puttys and lacquer primers were used, even though the painter had nothing to do with it, it will likely come back at him. If the bodywork and prep are not done well, the paint job won't look good no matter how well it was painted.
Not likely you will hear something like, yeah I wanted a cheap paint job and did my own prep, but only so and so painted it.
I'd talk to maaco or whoever you plan on doing the work, and talk it over with them, and see what they recommend and what materials to use. If going to maaco, doing the best job you can sanding and prepping, remove as much as you can, throw on an old set of tires, and doing a good job of taping off the rest, and bringing the car all prepped and ready to spray might be the best chance at success without ending up with paint sprayed over an unsanded body or the windows full of overspray.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
7,085 Posts
The Maaco in Antioch has a pretty good reputation for spraying the paint well.Ask to see some of there work.If you do all of the prep work and they use decent paint it should come out real nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
906 Posts
you get what you pay for,cant go cheap for any paint job,to good to be true jobs are just that.do it right the first time you will be better off:yes:no runs,drips or errors.i remember painting a 65 floored mustang green laquer with a good friend,looked like dog du until it was wet sanded and buffed,painted it in a two car garage.those days are long gone now,big brother will nail you for that now,spend the money and get it done right
good luck
don
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31,194 Posts
Every painter I've spoke with, have said the painting is the easy part, it's the prep work that separates the level of quality. Good cheap paint jobs are easy to find, it's the how much you want to spend in time and effort on prep.:yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,728 Posts
The Maaco in San Jose on Brokaw Road wants $4,000 do to prime/seal, base coat/clear coat using RM paint. Color sand and buff is included.

Saw three(3) cars done by the shop. One was the managers 72 Nova, paint was three years old. Two, was a customers panel truck with crashed front fender, returned for repairs. Third was a pick-up truck just finished paint, waiting to be sand/buffed. They all looked very good.

Bryan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,241 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Painting is a science project

Thanks for the advice. I found the folks at San Leandro color (paint store) are not too knowledgeable about their own store. Even the owner seemed unsure of the products on the shelf.

I even asked about the primer and had to put back a can after the dude recommended it because it said it could not be sanded, Then I picked up another can of the etching primer and it said it could be sanded. Wow! :confused:

So since I only sprayed 1/6 of the car it is no disaster. All I have is time invested in sanding it and that will continue anyway. The one thing i will do is to clean the body up and tape it off better than they can anyway.

BUT, I will take everyones advice and go down to Maaco and ask them what can of primer to use. :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
DON'T DO IT. Maaco will use a very cheap quality paint. It will look dull within a year. Good paint and related material will cost $400.00 to $500.00 dollars. a GOOD cheap paint job can't happen for less than $700.00 dollars and that would be a good deal. I had Maaco paint a 1980 Camaro a few years back it started to crack 6 months later. I have done all my own painting since. I wish you were closer to Ventura I would spray it for you in my Shop.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,132 Posts
Like me, I've been laid off for just over a month now. As soon as I get my engine hauled down to my engine rebuilder, and the truck out of the garage, I may look into doing a paint job for someone else again. With the economy like it is, some shops are likely hurting or people out of work, so may be a time when you could find a good deal.
But with that kind of budget, you may just be limited to maaco and doing your own prep to get the best possible job within that kind of budget.
Even having little overhead, good materials for a complete can easily run around a grand not to mention all the time involved to do proper prep. That price range would, maybe if lucky, could get a cheaper single stage urethane sprayed, which could possibly last 5 years or so depending on how uv resistant the color is and how prep is done, if the bodywork and prep needed is very minimal. But by the time you figure in tape, primers, sanpaper, wax and grease remover compound, and any other supplies you would use along with the paint, very likely your going to get close to your figures, with labor not even figured in yet.
Another thing, many, myself included do not like to paint over someone elses work, and have our name on it. In this very example is a good reason why many feel this way. The fact you were planning to use etch primer to primer is one good reason why. Spend years learning how to do a quality job, good materials to use, and what works together, and if a paint job soon blows up and looks like hell because materials like etch primer, 1k spot puttys and lacquer primers were used, even though the painter had nothing to do with it, it will likely come back at him. If the bodywork and prep are not done well, the paint job won't look good no matter how well it was painted.
Not likely you will hear something like, yeah I wanted a cheap paint job and did my own prep, but only so and so painted it.
I'd talk to maaco or whoever you plan on doing the work, and talk it over with them, and see what they recommend and what materials to use. If going to maaco, doing the best job you can sanding and prepping, remove as much as you can, throw on an old set of tires, and doing a good job of taping off the rest, and bringing the car all prepped and ready to spray might be the best chance at success without ending up with paint sprayed over an unsanded body or the windows full of overspray.
You are mostly correct. I also will not paint over someone else's work, but I don't think MAACO has any standards.
The problem I have with your post is including etch primer in with lacquer primer and 1K spot putties. Etch primer is a valid option for a corrosion resistant primer. I LIKE the fact that he was going to use it, although it sounded like he was using it as a surfacer.
If etch was bad (like the lacquer and spot putty) it would not be a recommended product for paint company's lifetime warranty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
I think its fine to do what you can and get maaco/miracle type places to shoot it. Look, not everyone including myself wants to spend 5K plus to paint a car. Some do and if thats your thing, great. Like its been said, do your homework as far as the compatability of the products used and have at it. ONE THINGS FOR SURE, I would never pay Maaco four grand to do a paint job. Maybe thats the rate now and im just stuck in the past but I dont associate their work with that price range. But many have been happy with their results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
for those on an extreme budget..

you might look into using rustoleum enamel.

Some are getting very good results with it, but color selection is VERY limited.

on the other hand, you are talking about a paint job which may last upwards of five years ( still looking as good as when it was finished ) for under $200.

Hot rod magazine did an article on it using a paint roller. ( no really ) LOTS AND LOTS of work, but you get a good looking paint job in the end, and I think they came in at under $100.

I seem to recalls some guys shooting it with mineral spirits to thin it; same results with much less work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,989 Posts
super buget

This cost me $100 total including all materials, no primer either, did it myself in 1 hr. I could shoot it with clear for more money but wanted the hot rod look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
996 Posts
for those on an extreme budget..

you might look into using rustoleum enamel.

Some are getting very good results with it, but color selection is VERY limited.

on the other hand, you are talking about a paint job which may last upwards of five years ( still looking as good as when it was finished ) for under $200.

Hot rod magazine did an article on it using a paint roller. ( no really ) LOTS AND LOTS of work, but you get a good looking paint job in the end, and I think they came in at under $100.

I seem to recalls some guys shooting it with mineral spirits to thin it; same results with much less work.
yeah, i'm a rustoleum painter :yes:

did my wifes fairlane for under $50.

also the color selection is unlimited. you just gotta mix the paint. good luck getting the same mix every time though.

i'm either going to do my nova flat white or mix a little flat black in with the flat white for a custom "primer gray" color. just have to mix all you need at one time and hope you never have to do touch up.
if i go with the gray i'm going to try to measure it out as best i can, just in case i need to touch up later down the road
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,059 Posts
DON'T DO IT. Maaco will use a very cheap quality paint. It will look dull within a year. Good paint and related material will cost $400.00 to $500.00 dollars. a GOOD cheap paint job can't happen for less than $700.00 dollars and that would be a good deal. I had Maaco paint a 1980 Camaro a few years back it started to crack 6 months later. I have done all my own painting since. I wish you were closer to Ventura I would spray it for you in my Shop.
I got my Nova painted at Maaco in September 2005, for less than $500, and it still shines like new with no problems other than the occasional rock chip. I would think that if your paint started to crack within a year, it must have been a poor prep job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
996 Posts
I got my Nova painted at Maaco in September 2005, for less than $500, and it still shines like new with no problems other than the occasional rock chip. I would think that if your paint started to crack within a year, it must have been a poor prep job.
most cracking i've seen is because the paint is too thick under the new paint.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top