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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the passenger inner fender on my '67 with a straight OEM inner, and the alignment of my radiator support is off now. The ends of the inners are too narrow. To complicate things, I am replacing the passenger front floor pan and kick panel, as the PO had done a hack job on his replacement of the pan. To FURTHER complicate things, I installed a Church R&P and A-arms. This has been done piecemeal over the last 5 years, so I don't have any single thing I can point to that caused the misalignment. I've loosened the inner fender and church crossmember to try to adjust, but the alignment is about 1/4" off, and I'm not able to make that up anywhere.
I'm suspicious of the passenger side mountings at the unibody with the floor out on that side - I was considering taking everything off down to the inner fenders, then spreading the inners to fit the rad support, then welding the floor panel in, but I don't want to create problems.
I haven't touched the left inner at all, it's as it came from the factory.
Any suggestions at a path to take on this? Thanks!
 

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I replaced the passenger inner fender on my '67 with a straight OEM inner, and the alignment of my radiator support is off now. The ends of the inners are too narrow. To complicate things, I am replacing the passenger front floor pan and kick panel, as the PO had done a hack job on his replacement of the pan. To FURTHER complicate things, I installed a Church R&P and A-arms. This has been done piecemeal over the last 5 years, so I don't have any single thing I can point to that caused the misalignment. I've loosened the inner fender and church crossmember to try to adjust, but the alignment is about 1/4" off, and I'm not able to make that up anywhere.
I'm suspicious of the passenger side mountings at the unibody with the floor out on that side - I was considering taking everything off down to the inner fenders, then spreading the inners to fit the rad support, then welding the floor panel in, but I don't want to create problems.
I haven't touched the left inner at all, it's as it came from the factory.
Any suggestions at a path to take on this? Thanks!
1/4 inch isnt much, I would spread it with a port a power or friction jack, but first I would do a cross measurement of the front section to see which way it needs to go. It only needs to move an 1/8 inch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I'm pulling the suspension back off this morning (I didn't do the final install locktite, so it's no biggie) and take some measurements. Do you know if it's ok to shim the lower attachment? I'm thinking that full contact is pretty important down there.
 

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The core support not wanting to go back on is a common problem. I agree, 1/4" of an inch is nothing on these cars. I would also do what Zonie says regarding spreading it apart. The subframes were assembled before going on the car, on the GM line, which probably mitigated issues like you are having.

I cannot recall ever seeing the bottom of the subframe shimmed where it meets the body.

Is your car flat on the ground under its own weight? Unibody cars don't like to be re-assembled on jack stands.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The news about subframe mounted as a unit makes me feel better about tweaking things! Last night I jacked it up by the Church crossbar and loosened both sides of the crossbar and all of the fasteners on the right inner. I had a new radiator support that measured well compared with the original, so slipped that on, and managed to get bolts in the upper mounts of the support. Then I used a come along to pull the ends together to fit the bolts. Then I tightened it all again, and it's looking dandy! The new support's holes needed a bit widening, as always, but I'm real happy with how it's going now. Thanks for the confidence-boost! :yes:

 

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Yeah, you are on the right track there. All normal for these cars, nothing to be concerned about.
 

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The news about subframe mounted as a unit makes me feel better about tweaking things! Last night I jacked it up by the Church crossbar and loosened both sides of the crossbar and all of the fasteners on the right inner. I had a new radiator support that measured well compared with the original, so slipped that on, and managed to get bolts in the upper mounts of the support. Then I used a come along to pull the ends together to fit the bolts. Then I tightened it all again, and it's looking dandy! The new support's holes needed a bit widening, as always, but I'm real happy with how it's going now. Thanks for the confidence-boost! :yes:

The radiator support can be moved over to match those holes and be even with the frame rails on both sides, the cross measurement on the top will tell you if they need to be enlarged or not, it should measure the same within 1/8 inch. I would also stir away from shims on the rear rail to body.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The radiator support can be moved over to match those holes and be even with the frame rails on both sides, the cross measurement on the top will tell you if they need to be enlarged or not, it should measure the same within 1/8 inch.
The width of the aftermarket support holes were the same as the OEM support (miracle!) but they were too close to the front. I was able to pull the ends in enough to line the holes up front to back, then used a burr to elongate the hole enough to get the bolts in. Likewise with the holes on the bottom. The new support also had wonky measurements between the headlight basket screws, but reaming the plastic out to 3/8" made it possible to fit them. Gotta love these"replacement" parts. I have a fender that took so much labor to fit, I could have bought an NOS. :doh:
 
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