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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
It turns out that gm used essentially the same gauges as the 63-65 Nova SS in utility vans through 79 or so.

http://www.vcvc.org/showthread.php/...cluster-question?p=73306&viewfull=1#post73306

The trim is a little different, but the gauges seem to be identical. At some point they switched to voltmeters for the vans, but kept the same gauge layout.

An ammeter is fine, but a voltmeter is easier to hook up (no shunt) and you're not running all the juice through the dash (safer)

I picked up a van voltage gauge from eBay, Delco part number 6474319. The gauge face is shaped identically to the original ammeter. The mounting is different, and the font/labeling doesn't match, but I'm working on that.
 

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It turns out that gm used essentially the same gauges as the 63-65 Nova SS in utility vans through 79 or so.

http://www.vcvc.org/showthread.php/...cluster-question?p=73306&viewfull=1#post73306

The trim is a little different, but the gauges seem to be identical. At some point they switched to voltmeters for the vans, but kept the same gauge layout.

An ammeter is fine, but a voltmeter is easier to hook up (no shunt) and you're not running all the juice through the dash (safer)

I picked up a van voltage gauge from eBay, Delco part number 6474319. The gauge face is shaped identically to the original ammeter. The mounting is different, and the font/labeling doesn't match, but I'm working on that.
please make sure to do a step by step on the whole thing. Especially the wiring.
 

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Pat can you just change the faces of the gauges and know that 18 is charging and 8 is dis-charging?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
please make sure to do a step by step on the whole thing. Especially the wiring.
That's the plan. So far it looks like the toughest part is mounting it as that part of the gauge is completely different. The wiring is simple...just tap in to +12 and GND...on any circuit you want. No funky wiring at all. Mine came with what looks like a little resistor (shunt?) that I have to investigate. Even if you need to retain it, this is nothing near as bad as the original SS shunt.

Pat can you just change the faces of the gauges and know that 18 is charging and 8 is dis-charging?
Yes, you could do that to retain the stock look. I just looked quick, but it appears that the rivets holding the gague face on are in different spots, so it's not as simple as that, but...shouldn't be too tough.

this may work , it seems be the same guage :yes:fits '80-'82 P20 & P30 vehicles
Those are 6474615, and should work also. I have a feeling they had different part numbers because the face stencil is a little different.
 

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forgot to say Thank you Patman :thumbsup: for the info

found this too ,you can make up a new matching set just need to make sure you got the right fuel sending , and temp sending units ,not sure if the oil gauge is electric with a sending unit or hard line , gonna do some more research
http://store.stepvanparts.com/DASHBOARD-GAUGES-STEPVAN.HTM
 

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forgot to say Thank you Patman :thumbsup: for the info

found this too ,you can make up a new matching set just need to make sure you got the right fuel sending , and temp sending units ,not sure if the oil is a sender or hard line gonna do some more research
http://store.stepvanparts.com/DASHBOARD-GAUGES-STEPVAN.HTM
wow You might have posted what I needed. I need my fuel gauge ( doesnt work correctly) and Batt voltage.
 

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It turns out that gm used essentially the same gauges as the 63-65 Nova SS in utility vans through 79 or so.

http://www.vcvc.org/showthread.php/...cluster-question?p=73306&viewfull=1#post73306

The trim is a little different, but the gauges seem to be identical. At some point they switched to voltmeters for the vans, but kept the same gauge layout.

An ammeter is fine, but a voltmeter is easier to hook up (no shunt) and you're not running all the juice through the dash (safer)

I picked up a van voltage gauge from eBay, Delco part number 6474319. The gauge face is shaped identically to the original ammeter. The mounting is different, and the font/labeling doesn't match, but I'm working on that.
Wow, great find. This cluster looks a lot like the first Gen SS package. I wonder how well the Van's cluster back plate would fit to a first gen trim ring and face plate? Could the van mounting plate be adopted to the first gen face plate and ring so all of the gauges, tack and speedo faces match?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
63novassrt;1986183found this too said:
http://store.stepvanparts.com/DASHBOARD-GAUGES-STEPVAN.HTM[/url]
Yep, those are the ones.

Wow, great find. This cluster looks a lot like the first Gen SS package. I wonder how well the Van's cluster back plate would fit to a first gen trim ring and face plate? Could the van mounting plate be adopted to the first gen face plate and ring so all of the gauges, tack and speedo faces match?
i was wondering if the whole shebang was a direct bolt in... :eek: :D :yes:
From what I can tell, the whole deal is modular. On the back there are essentially three big circular holes. The speedo mounts in one, the gauges in the other, and different things go in the middle. It *looks* like you can replace any of those three independently. The van dash from the back:


The description says the used "Chevy II factory tach", but in another thread it is described as a new unit from Shiftworks.

I read somewhere (can't find it right now) that the whole van dash unit is a direct bolt-in. It was on SNS here a few years ago actually...

The Nova gauges have the spade lug connections, while the new gauge I bought has threaded terminals, and is longer (deeper). I am going to adapt the gauge mounting plate to accept the new voltmeter, but I suspect if you had a whole van dash, you could just bolt in the temp/fuel/oil/volt gauge plate and install them as a group.

Be careful on the fuel and temp gauge replacement, I'm not sure if the sender is the same ohm rating. (Meaning worst case, it'll sorta work but it won't read correctly, nothing dramatic.)

Looking from the front, the van setup had the center faceplate trim area blank except for a parking brake warning light. Ignore the aftermarket gauges in this picture, check out the plastic dash face and you can see the indicator in the middle. That section was cut out so the owner could install the tach in the unit above:

 

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The Nova gauges have the spade lug connections, while the new gauge I bought has threaded terminals
The Nova gauge spade terminals can be removed via the nuts.
Perhaps those terminals will fit over the van gauge lugs (???)
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
The Nova gauge spade terminals can be removed via the nuts.
Perhaps those terminals will fit over the van gauge lugs (???)
The threads are different, plus the gauge is much deeper, so it's a little more complicated than that. The fuel and temp gauges are about the same depth as the new gauge, but the ammeter and oil gauges are not as deep. In order for them to all mount with the faces at the same level, the mounting plate has two different levels to it. Looking at the van gauge back, that appears to be flat...which makes sense if the gauges are all the 'deep' style. The choice seems to be to either cut the Nova SS gauge mounting plate so that I can add the voltmeter, or to get a van gauge mounting plate, and transfer the other three gauges over. The Nova SS gauge set I'm playing with here I just picked up on CL recently, so I'm on the fence about cutting it up. I've got another one, but...this might be worth more as-is. Decisions, decisions...

The good news is that I figured out the voltmeter wiring. I suspect this is really a 6V gauge under the covers, the resistor that comes with it is supposed to be used to step the 12V down to the proper range for the gauge.

There are 3 lugs on the back of the gauge, two are copper colored, and the third is silver. The silver one is a ground connection. There is a resistor that came with the gauge that bolts onto those two copper lugs. The upper copper is the input to the gauge, and the lower copper lug is apparently just there to mount the resistor to and connect the +12. When I put the resistor in between the battery and the upper lug, it reads about half scale. (without it, I get a full 18+ volts) The final wiring will be silver lug to ground, resistor bolted to the two copper lugs, and the lower copper lug connected to a switched +12 source.

Pictures and more details to follow, I know this is kinda confusing right now.
 

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