Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I picked up my 67 with full tubs, a narrowed 9" and a 3 link setup. Since I'm not one to need 33x20.5" tires, I would like to to bring the tubs in a bit and run more of a "Streetable" setup. The car will be set up for street with some drag racing mixed in. I will be running an LS1/4L80E combo with a checkered racing front end.

My question is - how difficult is it to accomplish something like this? Since the frame rails have already been relocated, can I leave them as is? I know I will have to change the rear end housing, but I plan on keeping the internals the same. What suspension setup is recommended for my use?

Thanks in advance. :yes:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,613 Posts
Interesting scenario! Un-doing a full tub is not for the faint of heart. I did one on a rare, Chrysler A-990 car, and is was an enormous amount of work.
Here is a link to some pictures:
http://public.fotki.com/bowtie0069/shop-projects-1/a990-mopar/

That being said, you can fabricate a set of perches to get the leaf spring located further out on the rear end assembly. This will help with keeping the back of the car compliant and well riding, and still leave enough room for a big tire. Or, you can just run a four link, which may already be there?? Also, you can use a set of trailer fenders as a start for your new inner fender wells. They work excellend, and you just need to add a small amount of sheet metal to finish them off.
Dale
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Interesting scenario! Un-doing a full tub is not for the faint of heart. I did one on a rare, Chrysler A-990 car, and is was an enormous amount of work.
Here is a link to some pictures:
http://public.fotki.com/bowtie0069/shop-projects-1/a990-mopar/

That being said, you can fabricate a set of perches to get the leaf spring located further out on the rear end assembly. This will help with keeping the back of the car compliant and well riding, and still leave enough room for a big tire. Or, you can just run a four link, which may already be there?? Also, you can use a set of trailer fenders as a start for your new inner fender wells. They work excellend, and you just need to add a small amount of sheet metal to finish them off.
Dale
Hey Dale,

First off - That Chrysler looks like a killer project! The car actually has a 3 link in it already. I was kind of hoping to be able to swap the rear and housing and weld/fabricate new mounts to a slightly less narrowed rear. :) Where can one obtain these trailer fender wells? Seems like that may be a good starting point! Thanks for your help.

Andrew:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,849 Posts
Hey, that is an uncommon thread, most guys want to tub out, not in.

Im kinda thinking you are more talking about your suspension, not the tubs.

And I was in a similar spot. I had a full tub (still do) back half. My issue was the narrow suspension and its "not street friendly" handling. Close coilovers and a short panhard bar. The rear end on mine wasnt too narrow, but the suspension parts were. Check out my solution for the suspension. Ill see if I can find the post. Might help.

But as far as the tubs themselves go I would keep them. I needed all of the room to get my suspension and some nice street tires in there. 10" wheel with 285/40/17 tires.

Where the extra tub space made it all work was the space for a sway bar. And the shocks really. I couldnt have done it without the extra room. You wont gain any real usable space by narrowing the tubs. JR
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Just google trailer fenders, but here is a start:

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-544-tft68ex2.aspx
Thanks!

Hey, that is an uncommon thread, most guys want to tub out, not in.

Im kinda thinking you are more talking about your suspension, not the tubs.

And I was in a similar spot. I had a full tub (still do) back half. My issue was the narrow suspension and its "not street friendly" handling. Close coilovers and a short panhard bar. The rear end on mine wasnt too narrow, but the suspension parts were. Check out my solution for the suspension. Ill see if I can find the post. Might help.

But as far as the tubs themselves go I would keep them. I needed all of the room to get my suspension and some nice street tires in there. 10" wheel with 285/40/17 tires.

Where the extra tub space made it all work was the space for a sway bar. And the shocks really. I couldnt have done it without the extra room. You wont gain any real usable space by narrowing the tubs. JR
I guess you're right - I'm not AS concerned about actually having the tubs in place as I am about getting the suspension a bit more street/handling friendly and getting it to work with a longer rear. Having the room isn't necessarily a bad thing as I'd like to run a BIG drag radial anyway, something like a 325/50/15. What suspension did you wind up going with? Would love to see the post! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,849 Posts
JR - Looks like there are some pics of you moving the shocks in this thread -

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122985

:yes:
Yup, I moved the shocks and springs out. I thought I posted a link but nope. Cant say how it handles yet cause the front is getting a re-vamp now too. But I think it will help. Here is the link and a before and after shot of the shock movement JR

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121172

Original suspension


And after the modification
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
JR - Looks good! Thanks for the pics. Is there a kit you used to do that or did you make the brackets/bars yourself?

:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,849 Posts
JR - Looks good! Thanks for the pics. Is there a kit you used to do that or did you make the brackets/bars yourself?

:)
Hey thanks. The 4-link and frame is art morrison. I made the rest. See the link, it shows how I made the bars and brackets, its all pretty simple really. JR
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Hey thanks. The 4-link and frame is art morrison. I made the rest. See the link, it shows how I made the bars and brackets, its all pretty simple really. JR
Thanks again! Might be a few months before I start on this, but it's great info to have handy.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top