Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I recently got my 65 on the road. I am making approx 500 HP and have 10" M/Ts out back with a relatively stock type front suspension outfitted with PST bushings, Moroso trick springs, and Comp Eng adjustable shocks set to 80/20.

I noticed yesterday that when I get decent weight transfer the front tires have a tendency to squeal for a while until I let off the throttle and settle the front end back down. Particularly notceable on new blacktop. I put in 0.5 degrees negative camber and 2 degrees castor.

I am thinking it is just the toe changing as the suspension settles, but am really not sure. Anyone experience something similar or have some thoughts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,072 Posts
I've watched a lot of those cars on the starting line and they scare the hell out of me. When the front rises I've seen them go toe-in, camber-in and wobble all over at the same time. Some just toe-in a bunch; some just have massive camber changes; others change every pass.
Then I watch Dale's 66, and it gets down the track just fine.
I don't know what the difference is, but it is dramatic how they vary.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,924 Posts
I used to have this same problem. It used to get a little scarey. I made 3 changes that finally fixed mine but since I did them all at once, I'm not exactly sure that all 3 were required to fix it.

First I put in new spring perches. I used the ones with the rubber bushings and no grease fittings. These are so tight that you cannot move them by hand and they will not allow excessive front end movement.

Second, I cut the stock 6 cyl springs by 1/2 coil. This lowered the front end by at least one inch. That ride height is actually much better for the front end geometry of the first gens as it is much closer to the center of the front travel rather than already extended, if you know what I mean. Already extended, the slightest rise will immediately cause a significant change in geometry.

Lastly, I installed the front end lockout kit.

Prior to these changes, I had been installing new front tires and re-aligning the front end every 5,000 miles (about once a year). I now have 3 years on the same tires and they look like they will go another 5 years.

I know some guys have simply tried installing a limiter chain or strap that will not allow any more than a certain amount of rise to the front suspension. This might be a cheap way to check it out b/4 doing any of the other stuff.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,245 Posts
Dan_Lebherz said:
I know some guys have simply tried installing a limiter chain or strap that will not allow any more than a certain amount of rise to the front suspension. This might be a cheap way to check it out b/4 doing any of the other stuff.
I'm not sure what the ChevyII's front suspension looks like, but on the 68+ Novas, you can remove the rubber snubber from the upper a-arm, weld a nut onto the a-arm and run yourself a bolt through it with another nut to lock it in place. You can use this for adjusting your travel limit.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,354 Posts
I wish the 62-65's were like the 68 frony suspension. They're not even close. I can't wait to get mine out and see what it does. Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,474 Posts
On 1st gen. novas toe in is greatly increased as the front end comes up. Put a jack under the xmember and watch the front tires toe in as you lift it, you'll be shocked.
I had basically the same setup as yours on my 63, kinda scary sometimes. I finally tied it down with cable, didn't hurt my 60' times and the scary stuff was gone.
As mentioned a lockout kit or at least tack welding the eccentrics on the lca will solidify your alignment. Another mod is to put a rod end on the strut instead of using a bushing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,318 Posts
I am gonna try the global west lock out kit myself and see if it solves my squeeling issues. My toe changed drastically 20 min after my alignment. I have new spring perches and new lowered springs. I'll let you know if it helps mine. I should be able to tell within 20 miles leaving the alignment shop. If this doesn't solve it then the mini sub frame will be on order.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,542 Posts
FunkyNova66 said:
I am gonna try the global west lock out kit myself and see if it solves my squeeling issues. My toe changed drastically 20 min after my alignment. I have new spring perches and new lowered springs. I'll let you know if it helps mine. I should be able to tell within 20 miles leaving the alignment shop. If this doesn't solve it then the mini sub frame will be on order.
Hey funky,
the lockout kit is not the solution.I had mine installed and had every set up perfect.it drove great for about 200 miles and fell out and ruined another set of tires.If I were you i'd put that money towards the cpp lower a arm kit.bm
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,542 Posts
The alighnment fell out.I don't know anything about alignment.so I don't have any solid answers.I had the lockout plates installed.....everything was great for a while.Now my whole alignment is way out of wack.not sure what happened?I'm sooo tired of messing with this front end.I will try the cpp kit....if that doesn't work I guess I have to do a clip.bm
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,318 Posts
batman09 said:
The alighnment fell out.I don't know anything about alignment.so I don't have any solid answers.I had the lockout plates installed.....everything was great for a while.Now my whole alignment is way out of wack.not sure what happened?I'm sooo tired of messing with this front end.I will try the cpp kit....if that doesn't work I guess I have to do a clip.bm
humm...
Are you certain it wasn't alignment specs done wrong at the shop or could you feel and SEE it getting gradually worse over time? (excessive toe and camber now compared to when you pulled it out of the alignment shop). Could you tell the wheel alignment changed from baseline or did it just eat the tires over time? what specs did you have it set to again? My friend who is an alignment specialist stated that the more Caster you run 2+ deg, the less Toe you need. Especially with these wider profile tires. Excessive toe (even a minute amount) would eat a set of tires in no time. Anything over .1 deg toe with good caster is looking for trouble with todays wide radial tires.

Sorry for all the questions bm but I just want to be sure I have a clear picture.:) :) :D I only ask because I would hate to see you invest in a mini subframe only to have a set of incorrect specs done on the car again if this is the case.

Dave:beer:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,542 Posts
dave,
my specs from the shop are buried in a box somewhere?When the guy did my alignment my tires looked straight up and down.Now they are pointed out on the bottom...chewing up the inside of my tires.They were not like this when it was first done.I'm not sure what happened but somthing did.When I can find my specs I will post them.
ps i remember the alignment guy saying the lockout plates were a nightmare to set up correctly.....maybe he faked something just for a temporary fix...who knows?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,318 Posts
batman09 said:
dave,
my specs from the shop are buried in a box somewhere?When the guy did my alignment my tires looked straight up and down.Now they are pointed out on the bottom...chewing up the inside of my tires.They were not like this when it was first done.I'm not sure what happened but somthing did.When I can find my specs I will post them.
ps i remember the alignment guy saying the lockout plates were a nightmare to set up correctly.....maybe he faked something just for a temporary fix...who knows?
Wow. Your camber decreased-->negative. (opposite of mine--> increased camber-->postive).

Negative camber also means negative toe. Does your tires toe out now or can you tell? The only way I can see this happening is if the alignment guy jacked the chassis up while doing the alignment (installing the eccentrics) and set the specs on the machine soon afterwards only to have your chassis (front end) settle over time (after putting some miles on it) thus creating negative camber and negative toe.

you will notice when you jack the car up the tires severely toe in and the camber gets postive. Quit opposite of the suspension settling down if you know what I mean.

I wonder if the new CPP mini subframe eliminates the camber/caster changes when the suspension is moved up and down. <--- this is the key question.

NOGO>?

Well....at least we share our experiences in efforts to try and figure out this big mystery. I think my eccentrics moved (causing + toe/camber) and your car settled over time (causing - toe/caster). This would explain why we had opposite outcomes.

but who knows...Thanks again Batman for your input.

I think it's time for the CPP sub frame for the both of us.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,597 Posts
My freind comletly rebuilt the front end in 63 a few years back. He did it 100% stock . No lock out or idler arm kit(I think his idler arm is a non curved.) any ways he claims to have been lucky and have had no alignment problems. He re did into a drag car and didn't change anything exept mabe shocks/ springs
and mabe played with the allignment in his driveway. It now goes streight at 110 MPH down the track. I asked him about the alignment and he says it has no problems...it holds up good.

I beleve it but am a bit surprised. I think its possible to make a stock or slightly modded stock front end work but I think the CPP kit would be better/easier.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top