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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there. I was all happy to come across a GREAT deal on a backup motor. Got it home and was drooling over it when I realized that I will need to buy a new front sump pan since this motor is a one piece seal and right now my current motor is an old first gen two piece seal.

For some reason the thought of buying another Nova oil pan seems really annoying. I have plenty of cutoff wheels and a welder. Has anyone had any luck just basically making their own front sump pan out of a normal one? I have two extra pans for this new one piece seal motor, and it seems pretty dumb to just throw them out.

Are there any other issues I will need to contend with putting that newer block in the Chevy II?
 

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Is that a 1987 and newer 1 piece block? Will a stock oil pan from a older 2 piece seal block work on the newer 1 piece seal block? Never seen one to compare.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm actually not sure if the holes and alignment are the same but for sure the lip around the main seal is much bigger on the one piece pan.

Here's my current plan unless someone advises me otherwise. Found a guy in town with a milodan 2 piece pan. Going to pick that up and weld the lip from a 1 piece stock pan onto it.
 

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I thought that 1 piece lip was bigger. Don't know if you looked around. I found one. I'm not much of a fabricator so I'd just have to buy one. That's the problem with these 62-67's with the stock clip. Dealing with that front sump pan.

Might be others just the first one I found.
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/n10012.html

On a side note. Was that the 96 Tahoe (I think) motor I saw on CL few weeks back? I was thinking of buying that one. The heads were worth the price alone. Didn't have use for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, that's the problem the 1 piece lip is much bigger.

Not sure about that ad, but I have a COMPLETE 96 block (right down to the timing cover and valve covers) 2 bolt with the L31 vortec heads (64cc chambers, 170 runners) that I've got listed on CL right now for $250. I'd let the whole pile of parts go for $200. That's about what just the heads go for. Block / crank was magnafluxed and checked out for rebuild by machinist.

I was going to use it to build a spare motor, but ended up with ANOTHER one piece complete motor that is 4 bolt.
 

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Yes, that's the problem the 1 piece lip is much bigger.

Not sure about that ad, but I have a COMPLETE 96 block (right down to the timing cover and valve covers) 2 bolt with the L31 vortec heads (64cc chambers, 170 runners) that I've got listed on CL right now for $250. I'd let the whole pile of parts go for $200. That's about what just the heads go for. Block / crank was magnafluxed and checked out for rebuild by machinist.

I was going to use it to build a spare motor, but ended up with ANOTHER one piece complete motor that is 4 bolt.
If you're planning to use it as a base to build a spare motor, you could get an adapter to put an earlier two-piece seal crank into the one-piece seal block. The main benefit to that approach is that you could re-use your current pan and flywheel. The flywheel part is important since you have a 4-speed trans, as the two-piece and one-piece cranks require flywheels/flex plates that are specific to each type of crank.

If you don't mind getting a new flywheel to match the one-piece seal crank, I think the better choice would be to go with your first idea and fabricate a front sump using the pans that you have for the newer block. The one-piece seals work better. I have a Summit-brand oil pan that has welded sections and it's never leaked.

However, as cool as it is to play with power tools and make our own stuff, aftermarket pans are available for your car IF it doesn't have power steering. Milodon 31062 and Moroso 20212 are options.

Gerry
 

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That newer style block will be a passenger side dipstick also instead of the drivers side like your older block.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Yep on the dipstick. Set everything down to compare last night. Will be easy to weld on the rear seal lip. Slam dunk. Then the dipstick bulge needs to be swapped in (little harder). Now I'm wondering if I can leave the front as-is for the timing chain cover front gasket. I know they make two different sizes so I'm pretty sure I can leave the front the way it is. Anybody know?

In a much more annoying discovery, I realized that my block is cast for a mechanical pump but not drilled... I don't want to go electric pump so I scratched my head a bit on this one. The jig is $650... Found a production rebuilder in town and they machine those out all the time - under $150. Just FYI.
 

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On the front they changed from the thin seals to the thick ones in the mid/late 70s (actually the rear too). The pan lip was also changed. You just need to use the correct seals for the pan you have.

C2only and others sell front sump pans for late blocks with various sump capacities. To me the prices are cheap enough to buy rather than DIY. But I don't know the quality of their fab. Someone probably does.
 

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On the front they changed from the thin seals to the thick ones in the mid/late 70s (actually the rear too). The pan lip was also changed. You just need to use the correct seals for the pan you have.

C2only and others sell front sump pans for late blocks with various sump capacities. To me the prices are cheap enough to buy rather than DIY. But I don't know the quality of their fab. Someone probably does.
I agree. I’d just save up the pennies and buy a correct pan...to me it would be less of a headache.
 

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Back to Gen One

Discretion is most often the better part of Valor.

But, what is the name of the Oregon City machine shop that can machine blocks to accept a mechanical fuel pump?

Thank-you
 

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Did you talk with Ted at PER? He's good.
 

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Yeah I'm sure that was him. Been around a while. He use to have his shop out in Portland. He knows his stuff. My last block and crank they did was dead on.

I never used Paolo but my brother did for his Camaro motor. It was quick, probably a 12 sec car back in the late 80's. They have been around a while too and I've heard good things about them.
 

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C2only and others sell front sump pans for late blocks with various sump capacities. To me the prices are cheap enough to buy rather than DIY. But I don't know the quality of their fab. Someone probably does.
I put one on my 65 wagon. Only put 45,000 miles on it before selling the car. Never had an issue with it.
 
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