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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
badnova said:
........a section of the site that covers aftermarket clip installs,tips etc. Seems like many of us are going through the same things over and over.. would be nice to organize all of this info in one shot. I'll bet the same questions have been asked more than a few times? I know the search function is available but this would make finding ANY info regarding a front clip sooo much easier.

Here is an example:

For Heidts clips the following are parts that work:
headers :
- brand A part no#
- brand B part no#

Oil pans:
- brand A part no#

Comments:
you will need to notch this, adjust this etc etc etc

For Chassisworks clips
headers :
- brand A part no#
- brand B part no#

Oil pans:
- brand A part no#


I've started this area for the posting of tips and recommendations for aftermarket front clips and parts that will work with them. Which headers, oil pans, and such things as that. Post away.



Here's a good thread on TCI downtube fitment: http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30549


Dan (please keep it technical) ;)
 

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For Chassisworks clips
headers :
- Chassiworks makes their own. Get their headers
- The Standard oil pan type 'SBC' should work. I have a deep pan from Miledon and can get the part number.
 

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kracon said:
For Chassisworks clips
headers :
- Chassiworks makes their own. Get their headers
- The Standard oil pan type 'SBC' should work. I have a deep pan from Miledon and can get the part number.
In a pinch, a Hooker 2243 Super Comp 1 3/4",SBC, will work with minor denting & automatic trans
 

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I have a heidts ft clip and am running hooker super comp fenderwell headers a stock clip, They fit very well. I dont have inner fenders but I think it wouldnt be hard to fit them!. and standard sbc deep sump pan lots of clearance.
 

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Front Clip Cost

And I would like a front clip too...but I am going to have to do it one piece at a time.

SOOOoooo.....just let me ask this. How much is the average TOTAL AMOUNT SPENT on a new high tech front clip with all of the goodies to finish it.
$3000, $4000? more? I gotta save up for this one. And build a V8?

James
 

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my clip was $3108.00

Heidt's clip, drop spindles, stainless hoses, big rotors, cross-drilled and slotted, p/b unit & valve with a manual rack... including the improved inner fenders.

tax & delivery included

[edit] this was about 2 years ago, prices may have changed
 

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Purchased a TCI coil-spring front clip last year with ps, sway bar, dropped spindles and Wilwood discs. Painted and assembled it this summer. So far don't have any info on tire/wheel sizes, as the front fenders are not on the car. The wheels and tire in this pic are borrowed from a friend (235/60x15). The package went together well. Some minor grinding on the pass side firewall tube to align it to the frame rail, but no big deal. I would suggest replacing lower frame mounting bolts (1/2-20 x 1 3/4 lg) and lower shock mounting bolts (7/16-14x 7 lg) with grade 8 hardware. Otherwise I'm satisified. If I had to do it again, I'd go with the coil-over front - easier to assemble and adjust. One other word of caution, the last time I checked, the TCI 1st gen inner fender panels did not mount cleanly under the fender lip. This may have been corrected by TCI, but I'm not sure.
 

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Great pics Rich, I was wondering what you guys did to secure the bottom of the steering column, and where you picked up the tabs for the brake hoses. Also any idea what width and backspacing was used on the front wheels? Thanks haven't seen any action on this thread in awhile..
 

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65deuce said:
Great pics Rich, I was wondering what you guys did to secure the bottom of the steering column, and where you picked up the tabs for the brake hoses. Also any idea what width and backspacing was used on the front wheels? Thanks haven't seen any action on this thread in awhile..
Lower steering column can be secured many different ways - some much cleaner than others. Since I recently painted my firewall and I don't want to repaint, I will cut a flat plate to fit inside the firewall, then hole-saw a large enough opening for the lower column to fit through, bend the plate to fit the floor/firewall intersection, and finally bolt it to the inside of the firewall using the 2 original bolt holes. I plan on adding a third mount hole on the top portion of the opening. Then make a small L-bracket that will mount to a tapped hole that will be added to the Ididit column. The other leg of that L-bracket will be mounted to the new column/firewall bracket. You can also purchase lower mount brackets from Ididit or Flaming River, and maybe Chassisworks. I bought the mount tabs for the brake hoses with the brake line kit I purchased from TCI. It included 3/16" dia tubing, male and female fittings and all the mount tabs and clips to fully plumb the entire car.
 

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65deuce said:
Great pics Rich, I was wondering what you guys did to secure the bottom of the steering column, and where you picked up the tabs for the brake hoses. Also any idea what width and backspacing was used on the front wheels? Thanks haven't seen any action on this thread in awhile..
We bolt a piece of 3/4" strap steel that has been bent to a 90 on the floor, thru one of the existing bolt holes and clamp it to the column. This gives support, but will allow the column to move toward the firewall in case of an accident. If you look closely you can see it in this picture. It is all covered by the carpet when complete. If you are modifying the firewall a piece of 2 1/2" exhaust pipe makes for a pretty clean install.

We get the tabs with the stainless steel hose kit from

http://www.tsmmfg.com/

Not sure what those wheel sizes were, but they were an ill fit from the original frontend. A 7" rim with 4" of backspace works well tho.



 

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coilover length

Just wondering if someone could tell me the compressed and extended length of the coilovers on a Heidts of TCI type clip.
Also what's the height of a stock mustang II spindle...ball joint flange to flange?
 

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tspoon65 said:
rich how did you secure the tabs for the brake hoses on the frame? from hard line to flex line?

Normally I will weld them on. We were working with a powdercoated clip on this one, so we drilled and tapped the frame 1/4x20, and installed button heads to hold the clip.
 

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1972 Ventura/Wayne Due C4 Subframe

QA1 coilovers,85 vette spindles/aframes. This frame seems to be made excellent. The only issue I have at this point is the part of the frame (3 inch square tube) that runs from about the firewall back has to sit at an angle. Kind of hangs down in the front due to the spacer the Nova/Ventura runs that the 1st gen camaros don't. I used dropped body mounts but that didnt really fix the problem. The front still hangs down too far. Wayne put the original 350 mount system in and I used S&P adaptor plates to instal a 99 LS1. Pan has been cut back about 2 inches but appears that the original pan would fit without the notch.
 

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Headers for front clip with Big Block

seems like everyone is doing something different with headers but my situation was a bit different. Here was my setup with my big block


Stock front clip
Hooker super comp fenderwell headers (collectors shortened 3")
14" tires/wheels

I then switched to
Checkered racing clip
2" drop spindles
tranny raised 1"
15" tires/wheels

at this point the headers hit the tires.

I just received the Chassisworks big block headers ($730.00 shipped) and other than the flanges each needing trimmed because they hit the head bolts (hard to believe something this well engineered didn't have this factored in) anyway the headers fit well (THANK GOD !!) but are a real pain to install - I had to raise the front of the car up 2 feet and then drop the starter and remove my midplate between the tranny and the engine. But they do fit!

They may go in easier with Chassisworks clip - this was with the checkered clip.

PROS:
- Gorgeous headers, very clean and neat welds, very nice finish, killer THICK flanges - worth the money (never thought I would say that , until i got em)
- They fit

CONS: (my situation)
- Header flanges have to be trimmed to clear head bolts - sucks
- have to drop the starter and if midplate installed had to be removed
- Headers must come in from under the car because of their tube arrangement - especially on the drivers side.
 

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Well i spoke with Techguy (Mike Waddle) from Chassiworks and he reminded me that there is directions with the headers that point out the issues with some heads and the use of bolts and options for getting around this problem. Either change the header bolts to arp 12pt or trim the header flanges.

Directions though - do real men ever read directions?? hahahaha boy do i feel stupid.... :eek:
 

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TCI headers.

tspoon65 said:
i have the same tci front end on my 65 and im about at the same point that you are but i was wondering which headers you were going to use? i like the tci ones that they make but they are so expensive and i thought that you might have an idea. Looks great so far!
S and S headers fit,by trimming the pass side gusset slightly.Also TCI provides an optional header now.
 
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