Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What determines the need to step up to a forged rotating assembly - HP, RPMs, ...?

I planning on rebuilding my engine over this winter - no problems (just high miles). It's a SBC 350 four bolt main 10.6cr engine with stock cast crank & connecting rods along with TRW forged pistons. It's just your basic nothing trick 50/50 strip/street engine - Quick Fuel 750 mech sec, Eldebrock RPM dual plane intake, aluminum heads (185cc intake, 65 exhaust, 70 cc chambers with 2.02/1.60 valves), Bullet Hyd FT Cam (231 & 239 @ .050", 517" & 541" 108LS 104IC), and Super Comp 1-5/8" headers. At the track, I shift @ 6400.

Would this engine rebuild call for a forged rotating assembly? I don't see a big change in the future for the top end. I don't want to cage the car since I drive it on the road. I want to stay at or just a tick under 12.0s in the 1/4.

I ran with UMTR North in 2010 in street stick. The car's been in the garage since. My Best ET is listed below.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
What determines the need to step up to a forged rotating assembly - HP, RPMs, ...?

I planning on rebuilding my engine over this winter - no problems (just high miles). It's a SBC 350 four bolt main 10.6cr engine with stock cast crank & connecting rods along with TRW forged pistons. It's just your basic nothing trick 50/50 strip/street engine - Quick Fuel 750 mech sec, Eldebrock RPM dual plane intake, aluminum heads (185cc intake, 65 exhaust, 70 cc chambers with 2.02/1.60 valves), Bullet Hyd FT Cam (231 & 239 @ .050", 517" & 541" 108LS 104IC), and Super Comp 1-5/8" headers. At the track, I shift @ 6400.

Would this engine rebuild call for a forged rotating assembly? I don't see a big change in the future for the top end. I don't want to cage the car since I drive it on the road. I want to stay at or just a tick under 12.0s in the 1/4.

I ran with UMTR North in 2010 in street stick. The car's been in the garage since. My Best ET is listed below.
I'd look at the 383 forged stroker kits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
what determines the need to step up to a forged rotating assembly - hp, rpms, ...?

I planning on rebuilding my engine over this winter - no problems (just high miles). It's a sbc 350 four bolt main 10.6cr engine with stock cast crank & connecting rods along with trw forged pistons. It's just your basic nothing trick 50/50 strip/street engine - quick fuel 750 mech sec, eldebrock rpm dual plane intake, aluminum heads (185cc intake, 65 exhaust, 70 cc chambers with 2.02/1.60 valves), bullet hyd ft cam (231 & 239 @ .050", 517" & 541" 108ls 104ic), and super comp 1-5/8" headers. At the track, i shift @ 6400.

Would this engine rebuild call for a forged rotating assembly? I don't see a big change in the future for the top end. I don't want to cage the car since i drive it on the road. I want to stay at or just a tick under 12.0s in the 1/4.

I ran with umtr north in 2010 in street stick. The car's been in the garage since. My best et is listed below.
keep it all the same. Repl the rod bolts with good ones, repl all bearings, rings freshen up the engine. A better upgrade would be a hydraluic roller cam that will get you a little more power with the same set up you have.... Dont need to spend a ton
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
^^^agree with this! No need to upgrade to forged internals if your not looking to go faster than 12's, just use good rod bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,859 Posts
Stock crank will be fine at that power level. Stock rods are already forged anyhow and "should" be fine at that power level. The reason I say should is that I have never run stock rods at more than 350 HP. They are the most stressed part in an engine and over time they will eventually fail even at low power levels. its call metal fatigue...

How many millions of cycles have the seen in the 45 years of service. Something to think about...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
stock crank will be fine at that power level. Stock rods are already forged anyhow and "should" be fine at that power level. The reason i say should is that i have never run stock rods at more than 350 hp. They are the most stressed part in an engine and over time they will eventually fail even at low power levels. Its call metal fatigue...

How many millions of cycles have the seen in the 45 years of service. Something to think about...

when it comes to alumn rods cycles more of a factor. On steel rods they will be just fine with the power level. I have blown many engines and never broke a rod. Its the rod bolts that let go. Its rare to see a blown connecting rod. And if it does its at the piston pin area... And sometimes you cant tell what came first the chicken or the egg cause the engine is so blown up everything is a mess..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,859 Posts
when it comes to alumn rods cycles more of a factor. On steel rods they will be just fine with the power level. I have blown many engines and never broke a rod. Its the rod bolts that let go. Its rare to see a blown connecting rod. And if it does its at the piston pin area... And sometimes you cant tell what came first the chicken or the egg cause the engine is so blown up everything is a mess..
Only reason I said that is a buddys stock rod motor just let go. One rod broke clean in half. No spun bearing, not overrevved...
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top