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Discussion Starter #1
Well,
I have since moved and have my 68' stripped down to nothing but a tub with windows and I have a couple questions on replacing the floor pans.
1. should I leave the windows in so the body doesn't twist? or will it matter?

2. Should I build a jig to hold the body straight before cutting out the
floors? there in pretty bad shape, I'm just going to replace the whole floor.
I've been driving it for a year with a floormat in the front to keep most of the dirt and wind out heh.

3. Will my Hobart 220 wire feed work or do I need to stick it? It worked great on the racecar.

Thankx Jim
 

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JOE is the panmaster, I'm sure he'll come in with all the answers that you need.
 

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Jim, I recently did the floor pans on my '68. I did full lenth pans but only one side at a time. I had the front sub frames off the car and my car also was just a shell. I did have the rear end in place and the front blocked at the edge under the rocker panels. I didn't have any twist that I know of. As far as your Hobart, that should work just fine, I used my Miller 210 with .023 wire with the amperage turned down as low as it would go and the wire speed set just so it didn't burn back to the gun. I think your stick welder would be way to hot for sheet metal. Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cool, thanx for the info guys. It's one thing welding on the racecar, cuz if I messed up I just cut it out and did it again heh. This is One shot, One kill. Hope I don't screw it up.

Jim
 
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