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Floor pans

2511 Views 4 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  frogman68
I picked up the new replacement floor pans today from Classic Industries. Now the fun part of removing the old rusted out floor and welding in the replacement. Any suggestions on how best to process would be aprreicated.

Should I weld in brace material to hold the body in place?

I purchased the left and right half sections and was going to do one side at a time to help keep the body straight. These are full length sections because the left side has a hole from a shifter someone cut in the floor and the right side has rust damage on the toe plate. The seat mounts are ok.


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Have you seen the floor pan replacement thread in the "best of" section here? It will likely answer a lot of your questions.

I never braced mine, just did one side at a time and didn't put pressure on the sills when I was working on it.
Thanks, I have read though most of the threads on the site looking for guidance, i just want to get this job done right so i can get her put back together!
Cross Bracing?

I would not even think of removing the floor pan without cross bracing! If that body shifts at all, you risk welding the new pan in out of square. I measured everything before the first tack was ever made. I used a full floor pan and "overkill" on the braces. The cancer was bad and I had to replace the full toe kicks all the way to the rear panel.
Next year will be our 50th anniversary for owning this car.
I would not even think of removing the floor pan without cross bracing! If that body shifts at all, you risk welding the new pan in out of square. I measured everything before the first tack was ever made. I used a full floor pan and "overkill" on the braces. The cancer was bad and I had to replace the full toe kicks all the way to the rear panel.
Next year will be our 50th anniversary for owning this car.
To add to this have some ratchet straps and a come a long or two ready after 50 yrs things like to move and you can pull it back in .
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