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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am looking to do some work on the flor pans of my 63 moordoor:yes:

Thing is I am a novice so this will be my first attempt at such and I have no idea how to go about it properly. Obviously I would like it to be safe first and foremost.

I should also mention this baby is a wisconsin car and always has been but as such it in better condition than most. Still there is some rust. I have not taken out the carpet or anything as of yet but I can see from under my car that there is a smallish whole under the drivers side (I can see the carpet so it is not that small) and quite a bit of rust everywhere else but mostly where it gets bad again is on the outer edges where it starts to meets up with the body.

I am familiar with por15 and know it is a good coating for rusty metal but when is it too rusty to use it? Are there some good rules of thumb for when to do a patch job versus a panel replacement?

Also I don't know a thing about welding so I would need to get some help there but would still like to know what types of welds are appropriate where. I don't want to end up with a botched job simply because of my ignorance.

If anyone can give me any tips or links to other threads where perhaps some kind soul has posted a step by step guide would be very much appreciated!
 

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Verna
Check out the best of body work threads for sure. Since you are a novice to welding there is plenty to learn in the treads by Greg63 and others.

Learning welding will take practice so start your practicing by reading how to do it. Search welding on this site and others and learn what you can. Then get some metal and practice the real thing.

Good luck and post some pics of the floor if you can. It will give us a better idea of what you need to do.

EarlyIIs
 

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Last year i did the floor pans in my 71 Nova and my bel air for the first time. I bought myself a Lincoln Handy mig welder from sears for $300. I did some practicing with the flux core on some scrap metal. Believe me the welds looked like garbage. Then i knew a buddy of mine that had a bunch of old welding tanks. He let me have one of them then i took that to my local welding supply and swapped the tank out for a 75/25 CO2 argon mix for $35. Wow what a difference. I would also be a good idea to buy a spot weld cutter. when it comes time for you to cut out all the bad metal and weld back in the replacement piece you have to deside whether or not to lap weld or butt weld. i perfer butt welding, it takes a bit longer to match the ends but kit looks so much better. heres a pic of my drivers floor pan after i welded in the replacement. Its also a good idea to get some weld thur primer if you have to cover any lap welds or other structural members.
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Floors

Location, location, location!

I too am from the Dairy State. If your close to Madison, let's talk. I think I have a drivers side floor section (full length) that can be cut up to patch your floor. I'm up in Sauk City, near Lake WI. We can knock out the floor patch in a day.

You do need to pull the carpet in the front and roll the rear section over to see exactly what is going on there. Post some pic's, it will help in determining what needs to be done, and how best to go about it. I'm hoping that the toe boards are still in good shape (bet not), this is the area under the brake pedel and gas pedel. Most of the time the rot from 4 to 12 inches straight up the firewall. It can be fixed, but once you start chasing the tin worms, it seems to never stop.

Check out my build thread "Project Idea - GS Jimmy" in the first gen, non-tech area. I installed a firewall & full floor in my '64. LOTS of tin worms [rust] died during the replacement of those parts! The end result was a solid starting point to build the body from.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the info:D I can tell already that this will be a project but it will definitely be easier knowing how to go about it properly.

I'll try to pull up the carpet sometime this weekend and snap a few pics to post. I am a little afraid of what might be under there though:yes:

Also how difficult is it to pull the front bench seat out? I have had the back one out before (locked my keys in the trunk once) and that one came out easy- but I know the front must be bolted down, and if I take it out I am going to need to be able to put it back in right away as I am using my nova as a daily driver till my other car gets a new engine. So would there be a chance I may run into any problems with possible rust damage etc. preventing me from being able to get it back in if I do?

Cheers!
Chris
 

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Thanks for all the info:D I can tell already that this will be a project but it will definitely be easier knowing how to go about it properly.

I'll try to pull up the carpet sometime this weekend and snap a few pics to post. I am a little afraid of what might be under there though:yes:

Also how difficult is it to pull the front bench seat out? I have had the back one out before (locked my keys in the trunk once) and that one came out easy- but I know the front must be bolted down, and if I take it out I am going to need to be able to put it back in right away as I am using my nova as a daily driver till my other car gets a new engine. So would there be a chance I may run into any problems with possible rust damage etc. preventing me from being able to get it back in if I do?

Cheers!
Chris
The front bench is held in by bolts. The bolts screw into nuts on the bottom side of the floor. Find the bolts under the ends of the seat. Then look at them from underneath and see if it is very rusty were the nuts are.

If the floor is rusty in the area of the nuts then yes you could run into some trouble getting the seat out and back in. Check it out and see what it looks like first.

EarllyIIS
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If the floor is rusty in the area of the nuts then yes you could run into some trouble getting the seat out and back in. Check it out and see what it looks like first.

EarllyIIS[/QUOTE]


Will do. Thanks again- seems you are always helping me out:D
 

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If the floor is rusty in the area of the nuts then yes you could run into some trouble getting the seat out and back in. Check it out and see what it looks like first.

EarllyIIS

Will do. Thanks again- seems you are always helping me out:D[/QUOTE]

Good luck, glad I could help:yes:

EarlyIIS
 
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