Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
First thing I would do is Sandblast with your small spotblaster all the door jamb rust areas in/out. Compressed air and blow out very thoroughly inside and out. Take your Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint "Stops rust dead" and brush on the inside of the door and let it pool up and drip out. After it dries do the outside area or jamb area with the Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint as well. After that dries scuff it up with some finer sandpaper or a 3M Scotchbrite red pad to dull the finish. Next step use some Evercoat Everglass to fill the rust holes, (pack in really good) Start sanding with 36 grit to knock it down or level it out before it fully hardens, It will kind of be in the gummy state. It sands like a rock if you let it completly dry. Finish sanding in 80 grit, then you could fill your pinholes with some regular evercoat Rage filler. After that prime it and seam seal and paint and your done. It should hold up for a long, long time.
:yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
368 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
First thing I would do is Sandblast with your small spotblaster all the door jamb rust areas in/out. Compressed air and blow out very thoroughly inside and out. Take your Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint "Stops rust dead" and brush on the inside of the door and let it pool up and drip out. After it dries do the outside area or jamb area with the Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint as well. After that dries scuff it up with some finer sandpaper or a 3M Scotchbrite red pad to dull the finish. Next step use some Evercoat Everglass to fill the rust holes, (pack in really good) Start sanding with 36 grit to knock it down or level it out before it fully hardens, It will kind of be in the gummy state. It sands like a rock if you let it completly dry. Finish sanding in 80 grit, then you could fill your pinholes with some regular evercoat Rage filler. After that prime it and seam seal and paint and your done. It should hold up for a long, long time.
:yes:


Normally I hate the idea of using filler, but this is a mess and I really don't want to take the time to cut all of this out and reweld all of it.

My goal was to get my car stripped down and ready for paint this week and when I started stripping the doors then I found this mess. All my other rust is gone and I don't know if I have the energy to cut all this out...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Normally I hate the idea of using filler, but this is a mess and I really don't want to take the time to cut all of this out and reweld all of it.

My goal was to get my car stripped down and ready for paint this week and when I started stripping the doors then I found this mess. All my other rust is gone and I don't know if I have the energy to cut all this out...
I would go the Duraglass route, its waterproof and will last a long time if done right, plus the car isnt driven everyday etc. Once you get the car done and painted, only wash it if you have to or you get caught in the rain. Washing these old cars after they have been restored...my expierience=they rust. These old cars hold water??? I dont know for sure, but I only wash the car if I have to. Compressed air to get the dirt off and some Meguairs Quik Detailer or a Damp Microfiber towel.
Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,665 Posts
I would not unfold the door skin. You will likely ripple the outer surface. The rust appears to be in the area at the bottom of the door between the weather stripping and the door skin crimp. My suggestion would be to cut a strip of 20 gauge sheet metal, form it and just overlay the area. Use a phosphoric acid metal treatment like PPG DX-579/DX-520 and then paint it with a zinc rich paint like weld through primer. You can tack the edges of the patch about every 1 to 1.5 inches. Then seam seal around the perimeter. This will strengthen the door shell, won’t crack out later and is pretty quick and dirty compared to but welding and blending a patch. Where this is located you will never see it.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top