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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have been studying drag racing for many years reading lots and lots, tips tricks, lift height..
I’m getting very close to finishing the car, the 540bbc is coming here in a couple weeks, qa1 double adjustment coil over front tubular a arms, sub frame connectors, mono leaf Detroit speed rear end, Denny drive shafts, looking for a power glide and a good rear end setup yet. Will have a 15 gal fuel cell not only for street but to add weight if need be on the track, I do have a 6-71 blower debating putting on. 8pt roll cage, now I’m taping everything off to paint the front frame, cage and all that, put the interior back together. I’ve never drag raced on a track with anything. I’ve worked at rock falls raceway in Eau claire wi for a year and learned a bunch but I’d like to not wrap up the rear end and learn to transfer all weight to the ground and not blow the tires off. Would be pointless not to hook up right?
My goal is to have her ready mid summer or at least testing out here in the country and learning what she does. The car was hit in the rear once. And I repaired it. But I’m afraid she’s gonna hook funny so I’m debating 4 link setup so I can adjust as much as I can. I do have coil overs for the back. Just don’t know how I want to go about this. I can’t find anyone in my area that gets into racing or that I know that would be willing to give me a hand building this car. So since 2012 I been building it by myself. I got weld mags on the front and aerospace brakes on the front but I gotta do the rear for rims and brakes yet.
I’ve done a ton of research but experience is what I’m kind of looking for. Someone to say hey you don’t need that sway bar in the front or yes keep it, limiting straps or hard mount engine.



Anyone in the area ? I just snapped my femur racing sled around here. Sold that and got another pickup truck for another project like I need more. So waiting for surgery to anchor tendons down so I can walk again and get back into working on this thing. Looking for advice, to become friends with drag people and support. Dream thing here and I’m getting excited but I want to do it right
Thanks
Jimmy


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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
more or less a mentor
 

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I'm not supper experience but I'd say just starting out the best thing you could do is get an NHRA rule book
when you are talking 540 cubes and maybe a blower, having an idea what changes in rules there are as you get quicker elapsed time and faster top speed will serve you well
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not supper experience but I'd say just starting out the best thing you could do is get an NHRA rule book
when you are talking 540 cubes and maybe a blower, having an idea what changes in rules there are as you get quicker elapsed time and faster top speed will serve you well
This is very true. Which didn’t cross my mind cause I did such a leap in cubes, and not to mention the excitement


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did some reading of the rule book from 2020. Pretty confusing I would like to get one for in hand. Not sure what class I’ll fall into


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Like the Dead Sea out there for this subject lol


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IMO, you should have bought a rule book before you bought your first wrench.

I see little chance of running this as a “first man to the finish line wins” legal NHRA class car.

Looks like you have no choice now but to run as a bracket car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I been building cars all my life, what do you mean?


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
IMO, you should have bought a rule book before you bought your first wrench.

I see little chance of running this as a “first man to the finish line wins” legal NHRA class car.

Looks like you have no choice now but to run as a bracket car.
Cause the man that did the roll cage did it based off the book?


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I been building cars all my life, what do you mean?


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It’s just the cage is the only thing I’ve done differently this time building a car. I guess I’m just unsure how my project is now clapped


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What is your anticipated 1/4 time ?
What is your anticipated car weight ?
My weight i plan on being around 3500 or so
And I cannot put a time on it cause I’m just trying to be as fast as I can be. I bought the 540bbc


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What did 540 dyno at ?
660 n/a no power adders. Waiting for the blower to get here to see what that does to it. On the fence about go juice


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My guess with the right pulleys I’d be pushing 11lbs boost. And may put me mid 900hp? Shooting from the hip here


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Or go the other way a 250 shot will put me in the same range


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A n/a 540 should dyno around
940 HP as a race motor, no
power adders.

Traditional “first man to the finish line wins” drag racing classes divide car weight by CID. It’s up to the racer to
build in HP, within rules. You’re down an insurmountable 300 out of the box.

IMO, your best chance is a “run what you brung” bracket car. You decide how fast your car will be. You then make your run, if ahead hit your brakes hoping not to go faster than
the ET you have in chalk paint on
windshield.

If you add SC, you’ll have to tear down motor and (at least) reduce compression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
A n/a 540 should dyno around
940 HP as a race motor, no
power adders.

Traditional “first man to the finish line wins” drag racing classes divide car weight by CID. It’s up to the racer to
build in HP, within rules. You’re down an insurmountable 300 out of the box.

IMO, your best chance is a “run what you brung” bracket car. You decide how fast your car will be. You then make your run, if ahead hit your brakes hoping not to go faster than
the ET you have in chalk paint on
windshield.

If you add SC, you’ll have to tear down motor and (at least) reduce compression.
I see what your saying, and that’s what I was kind of thinking is to not break out of the classes or break out for testing or whatever. I need that book to read. I tried to find something online and there seems to not be just one book and being a guy that doesn’t know the drag world real good I’m unsure what I’m looking for. Ya for a sc a guy wants to be around the 8:1 or so from what I understand. I’ll send you the build sheet of the motor


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Horsepower: 660+
Torque: 650+ lb/ft
Block: Dart Big M 9.8 4 Bolt Main 2pc Seal
Bore/Stroke: 4.500 x 4.250
Displacement: 540 C.I.D.
Crankshaft: Manley 4340 Forged 4.250" Stroke Internally Balanced 2pc.
Connecting Rods: Manley 4340 Forged H Beam 6.385" ARP 8740 Bolts
Pistons: Forged
Piston Rings: Moly Rings
Compression Ratio: 10.1:1 Compression
Camshaft: Hydraulic Roller
Camshaft Specifications: 243/249 @050 .640in/.640ex 112LSA
Camshaft Bearings: Installed & Clocked to OEM Position
Cylinder Heads: Dart Aluminum 121cc/325cc 2.25/1.88
Freeze Plugs: Brass Installed & Sealed
Rocker Arms: Howards Billet Aluminum Full Roller 1.7 Ratio
Oil Galley Plugs: Installed & Sealed
Oil Pan: Moroso 6qt.
Weight:575
Oil : 10W30
Oil Filter: Wix or K&N Recommended Per Your Application
Fuel Delivery : Quick Fuel Carburetor 850cfm #Q-850
Intake Manifold : Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap Dual Plane #7562
Spark Plugs : Autolite #AR3934
Spark Plug Gap : .035�
Harmonic Balancer/Damper : Professional Products Internally Balanced 8" #80004
Flex Plate / Flywheel : Internally Balanced 168 Tooth
Timing : 34-36 Degrees Total
Water Pump : Long Water Pump
Firing Order : 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2
Exhuast : 2 1/8 Headers
Fuel Pump : Holley 130GPH Mechanical #12-454-13
Fuel : 91+ Octane
Ignition : MSD Pro Billet #85551
Automatic Transmission Stall Converter : 3000+

This is just the stuff it comes with. I got some other things coming. Should be here in a week or so? Was thinking before doing anything with it to take it to my race motor guy and let him take a gander


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If you’re bracket racing, as I understand BR, there’s no need
to build a hi HP motor, and no 4 speeds (inconsistent)

All you want to do is run your same, consistent ET every pass. If you’re off .02 and the punk in his mama’s Volvo is off his dial in .01, you lose.

If you have a 10.75 car, dial in at 11.25, to save wear and tear. You can buy electronics to dial back car for consistent launches and to avoid breakouts.
 
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