Chevy Nova Forum banner

221 - 240 of 265 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
Discussion Starter #221 (Edited)
Line lock on the rear ?
your questioning of installing it on the rear, did make me go back and look into this particular solenoid (the b&m). I typically install these on the front... I have installed one on the rear in the past, but it was a different brand, couldnt remember which brand or why at the time i ordered it...

reading the instructions on the valve, made it seem as if you may be able to pump pressure passed the solenoid after energizing it... so just to be sure, i re-tested it (using a power probe)... the first time i tested it, i pressed the button and only hit the brake one time . it seemed to work, if you just hit the button, press the brake one time. but if you were to let up a little pressure and push the brake again, or pump the brake, it does appear to increase in pressure and send all the pressure through the solenoid... which is great for the front brake setup... not so much for how i have it here... could prob reverse it (so the check valve direction would be from back to front).. but i dont like that.

i went ahead and ordered the moroso valve (44050)... and verified that it will work as intended (blocks pressure both ways)... and will test again, once i install it...

long story short, some people are hesitant to question/criticize something someone else is doing. but i would like to thank you for doing so... i would have eventually caught it, but... your question made me re visit it now to make sure it would work as intended... and save me extra headache/irritation
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
Discussion Starter #223
I did get the b&m off and installed the moroso... tested it and it works as desired... prob could have just installed the b&m "in reverse", but since im already sort of doing that, by putting it on the rear, i wanted to get a valve designed to shut pressure off in both directions (the moroso looks a slight bit beefier also, not that it matters)... was a bit of irritation with the brake fluid mess... and having to re bleed it.. .but part of the deal... got it done...


 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
36 Posts

if the following is hard to follow, i can draw a diagram...

Used .75" square tubing... the pieces are 8" long each...
hole spacing for the two roller half is 2.875" from the end, the holes are 2.25" apart
hole spacing for the three roller half is 1.75" from the end, the holes are 2.25" apart
those holes are 1/4: holes, using 1/4" bolts

the main 5/16" bolts that hold the two halves together are 1/2" from each end

the rollers i picked up on amazon, they came two rollers per pack, the particular ones i bought are ASIN B000FKBRHK , they were $3.59 for two...


not sure if i missed anything, or if the above makes sense... if not i will have to draw it
Thanks! Appreciate it.
Trevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,121 Posts
Nice work. I love your budget build and all of your fabrication. The only thing I see that may be a problem is that your rod ends on your 4 link are not rubber mounted. After you get it put together and take it for a test drive, if you have a vibration, this is likely the cause. I chased a vibration on my car for several years and finally put a rubber mounted rod end on my panhard bar and the vibration went away. (My 4 link bars were already rubber mounted.). Anyway, I hope you don't have any vibrations but if you do, keep this in mind. It may save you some time in chasing it down. Keep up the good work. This is an awesome build.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LSCustoms

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
Discussion Starter #227
Nice work. I love your budget build and all of your fabrication. The only thing I see that may be a problem is that your rod ends on your 4 link are not rubber mounted. After you get it put together and take it for a test drive, if you have a vibration, this is likely the cause. I chased a vibration on my car for several years and finally put a rubber mounted rod end on my panhard bar and the vibration went away. (My 4 link bars were already rubber mounted.). Anyway, I hope you don't have any vibrations but if you do, keep this in mind. It may save you some time in chasing it down. Keep up the good work. This is an awesome build.
thank you... if there is any vibration issue that needs to be addressed, i will def keep this in mind... I purposely stayed away from the poly bushing style rod end... although i did use decent rod ends, i will eventually be using the ridetech r-joints (what i was going to use in the first place, but wasnt sure i could justify spending the money, until i had "successfully" completed the setup)... I kept this in mind as i built it and, at some point, will be swapping to those rod ends (prob before this is driven at any good distance)...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,121 Posts
thank you... if there is any vibration issue that needs to be addressed, i will def keep this in mind... I purposely stayed away from the poly bushing style rod end... although i did use decent rod ends, i will eventually be using the ridetech r-joints (what i was going to use in the first place, but wasnt sure i could justify spending the money, until i had "successfully" completed the setup)... I kept this in mind as i built it and, at some point, will be swapping to those rod ends (prob before this is driven at any good distance)...
Those R joints are nice. I have looked at them myself. Genius design.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LSCustoms

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
Discussion Starter #229
continuing to source or make necessary parts... fitting panels/doors/body parts etc.

knocking a lot of it out... working on front end/grill/headlights now...



anything colorful/chrome, isnt staying that way... not worried about painting or powder coating something, if it didnt need to be treated, or rust protected etc... not necessarily worried about how it looks cosmetically... just focusing on function... (thus leaving the hood latch orange and anything chrome alone...lol)

there is a lot more progress, but just throwing a couple pics up to keep the thread some what updated...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
Discussion Starter #230
still working on misc , once Im done setting up the ebrake, i will set it on the ground for a little... lights are almost fitted (was waiting on some misc), so i can finish test fitting the front end components...


also need to put the trunk on, so messing with the hinges...


threads for headlights/grille and trunk hinges... if interested in that...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
Discussion Starter #234
Worked on getting the ebrake working... I thought i would add it to the thread also...

decided to use the factory ebrake handle/setup...

needed to "repair" the handle... so v'd out the cracks and used some 2 part epoxy for now... this deleted the two inner stripes as it was cracking along those lines... just trying to clean the handle as best i can for now... I am going to try to make a billet replica handle to replace this one, sometime a little down the line... but for now, this will work...


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
Discussion Starter #236 (Edited)
Could have used the factory front cable or cheaper cables, but I wanted new/nicer ones, so I wouldnt stress over the ebrake... I used universal Lokar cables for the cables... p/n EC81-FU and p/n EC-8001U


although it is secure as is, going to work on tightening the hole up later... i also have the gasket that goes around the column and will add that later also... after i do more clean up on the firewall
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
Discussion Starter #237 (Edited)
attatched the passenger side cable to the top of the rear end... with a clamp


met up with the drivers side cable and ran along the frame rail...


used halves of these little line clamps to secure them tightly to the rail and keep them as cleanly ran as i could think of... (actually threaded the aluminum clamp and its bolted through the floor and then added a nut to it, to double nut it)
 
221 - 240 of 265 Posts
Top