Fender flares on a 74

634 Views 17 Replies 5 Participants Last post by kimmer71, 5 d ago

kimmer71

Discussion Starter · 1 mo ago

2

I’m in the process of trying to make fender flares because I had to open up the wheel well to clear my tires. I’ve never done this before and its proven to be a difficult challenge for me. I think I’ve finally found a method that works. Hopefully this will save someone the aggravation I’ve suffered to get to this point.

1st, I scoured hours of Lazze, Wray Schelling, Japhands and other videos on YouTube. I found 3 particular videos that were specifically tailored towards wheel arches. Ive already posted them here:

kimmer71 said:
And the jackpot!

I had to cut away the front inner brace then ripped the fender opening so I could figure out how far to pull the lip out to clear the tires. I carefully measured and marked the cut at the base of the factory curve. I used a plumb bob to find and mark the center of the wheel opening on the fender for reference. The fender was sliced down to the lower body line on each side to create a clean pivot point for the sectioned wheel arch. Measuring from the fender to the cut edge of of the sectioned lip, at the centerline, i needed 2” of stretch to clear the tire at full lock (out), full suspension compressed. That turned out to be just too far and looked excessively awkward. I pulled it back to 1.5” and welded some tabs to lock in the position.

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so far, pretty easy.

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #2 · 1 mo ago

5

After that, plenty of time making templates. I wanted to incorporate some shape into the panel to make it less obvious. I entertained a reverse curve, similar to the original shape. Even tried making it, followed by a dome shape. The dome lent itself to the shape which made it easier to control. The reverse curve was very difficult to control. The key concept here is control. Its one thing to make a freeform shape, another to make a shape fit a fixed opening.

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #3 · 1 mo ago

2

It was at this point I thought it would be worth trying a single full piece. I made the template 1st and it fit so well, I was optimistic. Im using an english wheel to shape these pieces. The single piece flare started out well. The top part fell into place but the front and back sections became stubborn. I struggled to get them to wrap around accurately. Eventually, i over shaped the panel with the wheel and lost control of it.

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #4 · 1 mo ago

After the 1 piece failure, i opted to go back to smaller, separate pieces. I hoped that i would be able to better control and fit the shape using smaller pieces. It worked better, but still proved very difficult to fit it as accurately (top and bottom seams) as I wanted it. In addition, it occurred to me that It was going to be difficult to hammer/dolly the weld seam back into shape since the joint would be an angle. But, this was at least getting closer to a wotkable solution.

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J Mark

· #5 · 1 mo ago

I love the learn as you go threads while sharing the good and the bad. Very informative.

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #6 · 1 mo ago

2

So, after thinking about the top weld seam workability issue, i figured id try a flange on the top. I was hopeful the flange would give me another “handle” for controlling the shape with the shrinker/stretcher. The flange introduced another necessary trick, using the tipping die on the bead roller. I used the skate wheel bottom 1st to get it started, then switched over to the steel flat lower wheel to finish it. I had to work it with the stretcher and shrinker to dial in the shape but it was by far the best fit I had achieved to date. The only problem…the flange gets in the way of the english wheel. I wheeled it anyways, as much as I could without distorting the flange shape. It helped and fell into line very well. Im contemplating trying to shape the panel 1st with the wheel, then tip the flange. I am concerned that once the dome shape is in the panel, the flange will be useless to finesse the shape. The dome shape really locks things down. I’ve been at this off and on for 3 weeks now. Been through at least half a dozen different blanks of 18ga steel. Im just about to the point of - thats as good as it’s gonna get. We shall see.

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #7 · 1 mo ago

3

Worked on the front section today. I do think ill be able to fit it which surprises me. Its a weird thing how metal moves. Lots of stretching on the bottom edge and lots of shrinking on the top. Gradually and evenly, back and forth.

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #8 · 28 d ago

4

Decided to play catch-up on the other fender in an effort to keep things as symmetrical as possible. Used the paper template i made on the other side to mark the 1st rip cut. Braced up the lower lip using spacers, and then marked the trim cut using tape. Ill work on shaping up the flare pieces next and move on to welding both fenders after that.

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MecGen

· #9 · 26 d ago

Thats a lot of hard work, I hope you can post pictures as the job advances. Cheers

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #10 · 24 d ago

Progressing along on the other side. Better angle picture for the overall look. I hope wheels and the hood help, The flare appears quite dominant at the moment.

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #11 · 16 d ago

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Worked on this a bit more yesterday and last night. I basically had all the pieces “roughed” to shape so I started on final fitting them. Turns out that part takes as much time as roughing them out, I learned.

Ill share a “trick” I’ve learned to use with shaping the flange side of these flare pieces. I’ve found that slightly over bending the flange, allows the curve/break-line of the flange to be cleanly seen and fit against the fender. This is also the best “reference” line to use when adjusting/fitting the piece plus the greater angle of the flange gives you better control over the shape when stretching. One additional tip, especially for the more difficult curved sections - Ive found that the piece will twist during stretching, and its not, or wasn't to me, immediately apparent. Twisting the piece gently back into shape by hand was a major improvement in my technique and helped fitting tremendously. Maybe I can have the DS nearly ready for welding today. 🤞

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #12 · 16 d ago

Also, something I’m seriously considering on this - Assuming these things turn out decent in appearance, casting a fiberglass mould on each side for a composite option in the future. It feels like a pretty good idea at the moment? Someone please talk me out of it.🤔

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xxdabroxx

· #13 · 15 d ago

If you make a fiberglass mold you could also build them up with some expanding foam over masking tape. That way if you wanted a different shape you could play with the foam then pull it off and have your all steel fenders in service while the composite ones are on the back burner.

We want to see some smokey burnouts before summer is over.

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #14 · 10 d ago

xxdabroxx said:
If you make a fiberglass mold you could also build them up with some expanding foam over masking tape. That way if you wanted a different shape you could play with the foam then pull it off and have your all steel fenders in service while the composite ones are on the back burner.

We want to see some smokey burnouts before summer is over.

I’m not counting on that. Every time I try to see that in my mind (driving the thing) that little dude on my shoulder starts laughing and lists off countless more tasks/purchases. Must…keep…going….forward. 😆

Im still working on these things. Still alot of work to do on them too. Im just trying to complete the fine fitment trimming so I can strike the 1st arc on them. And then there is the cowl cover. I keep looking at that thing and thinking “those darn louvers have to go”. And on and on it goes. If/when these flares are done, I swear it will be one of my greatest triumphs over this build, and probably the one most emphasized in future stories, which seems so odd to me considering everything else I’ve done to this Nova…to date.

nova66mussl

· #15 · 9 d ago

I applaud your work but I have a question. If you had clearance issues, why not go with a different back spacing on the wheels? I have seen some pretty large rubber without flaring the openings.

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #16 · 9 d ago

The brake kit I bought does not clear the caliper. This problem turned up 1st. A 5/8” spacer solves it, and the frame rub problem without them. New front wheels would eliminate the spacers but still not solve the fender clearance issue, which is the result of ride height. Not willing to increase ride height so…the only solution i can afford to pursue is fender flares. Im too deep into the suspension/brakes/wheels/tires to change direction and the flares are only time, which I can afford much easier than a new, fully loaded aftermarket subframe. In short, the only thing I could accomplish with new wheels is eliminating the wheel spacers to clear the calipers and that would require a wheel profile change rather than BS change. If the tires hit the frame (8” wide wheel) with 4.5” BS, more will only make it worse. My front tires are only 245’s, not that wide, and I don't want to go any less there either. Flares seemed like the only solution left on the table. Clear as mud right?

nova66mussl

· #17 · 8 d ago

I completely understand. Looks like you are doing a great job.

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kimmer71

Discussion Starter · #18 · 5 d ago

2

Still working on these things. Driver side is pretty much ready for weld prep. Toiling away on the passenger side now. Ive been moving pretty slowly on these, just the way its going lately.

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