Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,648 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I need some help squaring away the fenders on my 64 Nova. Top of fenders near the door is good,lower part of the fender appears to be 1/2 to 3/4 away from rocker. Do the skirt shims play a part in this type of allignment? I took the car apart two years ago and don't remember how may shims it took to level the fenders to the body. I hope someone out there is familiar with this problem. Thanks in advance!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
890 Posts
When you say away from rocker do you mean the gap is too big(fender towards front of car) or fender sticks out to side of vihicle?:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Raymond said:
I need some help squaring away the fenders on my 64 Nova. Top of fenders near the door is good,lower part of the fender appears to be 1/2 to 3/4 away from rocker. Do the skirt shims play a part in this type of allignment? I took the car apart two years ago and don't remember how may shims it took to level the fenders to the body. I hope someone out there is familiar with this problem. Thanks in advance!!!!!
You will probably need about 3-4 shims to get the bottom of the fender to line up with the body. If you are in a pinch, you can cut a strip out of some old large washers to make "C" shapes to temporarily align the fender.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,648 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The gap is 1/8 to 1/4 at top between fender and door which is normal,the gap gets wider down toward the bottom of the fender. I know how to shim a fender out if it was that kind of gap. The shims at the top of the fender skirt ( L -shaped with 2 holes and the 3rd is slotted) is what I was referring to.In the back of the hood hinge area. I think more shims in that area tilts the nose of the car downward and in turn closes up the gap on the bottom of the fender.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
890 Posts
Yes it sounds like you have the right idea if i understand your problem .Bring the front of fenders down to close up bottom gap door to fender.In a pinch you could try to jack car up at firewall with engine weight hanging free may be enough to get your gap.Try 2 jacks ,1 on each side and let nose hang.If nothing else you can install your shims easily.:D Skull
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,277 Posts
I am not sure about which shim area you are talking about? Does the fender gap mean from front of door to rear of fender at the bottom or is fender sticking out to the side.:confused:
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,558 Posts
I think this is what the problem is. The front subframe needs to be shimmed wider or further away at the top of the firewall or shims removed and the frame closer at the bottom of the firewall to close the gap.
Persons with subframes that bolt to the base of the firewall and under the front floor (68-79 Nova models) can also use shims or spacers to open or close the door to fender gaps. On this design of connecting the frame to the body of the car you could position the spacers or thinner bushings in any of the three positions (front radiator support, middle firewall base, rear under floor).
I would also look at how the car is supported now. It may be putting stress on spots to where the fenders do not line up however once it would be back on the ground on the suspension the fenders would line up.
Jim
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,558 Posts
The other drawings were for the fender to door gaps looking at the side of the car. Below is a drawing of how to adjust the levelness of the fender to the door on the 68-79 and may work on the older models. This would be the view if sighting down the side of the car.
On mine I want to be able to put the fender on and have the curvature the same on the fender to the door. On mine I had shims that after the lower back bottom fender bolt was removed the shim pack would not fall out but was held in by tension from the bow in the fender. On mine I put some slices in the inner back sturcture of the fender to where I could form the fender to have the same curvature as the front edge of the door. Once this was right I tack welded the slices partially shut and then after verifying they didn't move from the tack weld I fully welded the slices shut, ground them down and you cannot tell where the cuts were at. With this done the fenders can be put on and taken off and the curvature of the fender is the same as the front edge of the door. I can now slide the proper thickness shims in below once all the bolts are started, tighten them, and it all lines up properly.
Jim
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,558 Posts
These are things that I've learned through the years and if it can help others, great.
I've tried and have written things about work I've done on my car but like so many things no matter how many words, pictures, or diagrams you have a lot of it is practical knowledge and you actually have to go through the process.
I just have a problem with the 67 and older models as I have worked on them before but have not spent as much time on them as I have the 68 and newer ones. Some things do work on all years but just like on the models with the subframe that bolts to the firewall face I wonder with shims in different spots how this affects other things like how well the inner fenders fit, the back edge of the hood against the fixed cowl, and how tight or loose it might make things fit on the engine like the exhaust, distributor and so on. I guess it's something I would find out about if I went through building one of those models.
Jim
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top