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66 Chevy II, Pontiac powered; 68 &75 Firebirds
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Discussion Starter #1
First pic shows a mock up from a couple of years back. Fenders lined up fairly well all around. Frame assembly, down bars, rad support were tight.
Now I am attempting final front end assembly
Pic two shows front at top. Fairly close.
Pic three shows front at cowl. Fairly close
Pic four shows fender bottom at door. WAY out. (It was good at original mock up.)
What could have possibly happened?
Any advice to correct this? Seems like a pivot occurred where the sub frame bolts to the lower cowl.
 

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66 Chevy II, Pontiac powered; 68 &75 Firebirds
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Discussion Starter #3
Alignment

It is a Heidts Mustang II front subframe. I agree that the core support must be tilted down. Since it is bolted to the subframe horns the only way to do that is to tilt the whole subframe down. It appears to me that the whole subframe has been tilted up with the pivot point at the point where the subframe is bolted to the firewall.
 

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put all the sheet metal on, they are a bitch to align, you need to get frt to back, side to side, the Heidts subframe is fine, if the sheet metal lined up before it will line up again. you dont want to tilt the sub frame.
 

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HI GUys

Frankie m,
try putting your jack under the clip/firewall joint and take the weight of the wheel and observe what happens to the gap. If it closes at the bottom then the front of the clip rails are too high and triangular bracing is needed or adjusted to pre load the clip. I hope this is of some help.

Cheers Ian:uk:
 

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HI GUys

Frankie m,
try putting your jack under the clip/firewall joint and take the weight of the wheel and observe what happens to the gap. If it closes at the bottom then the front of the clip rails are too high and triangular bracing is needed or adjusted to pre load the clip. I hope this is of some help.

Cheers Ian:uk:
He makes a good point, I'm assuming you have the support rods to the upper mounts installed. Also leave the inner fender wells loose or unbolted until you get the proper gaps, you may need to hog out some of the upper holes on the inner fenders.
 

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I couldn’t tell from the photos but do you have the support tubes going from the upper firewall down to the subframe?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
HI GUys

Frankie m,
try putting your jack under the clip/firewall joint and take the weight of the wheel and observe what happens to the gap. If it closes at the bottom then the front of the clip rails are too high and triangular bracing is needed or adjusted to pre load the clip. I hope this is of some help.

Cheers Ian:uk:
Thanks. I did read other posts regarding jack stand placement where that area is not advisable because it will create stress from the weight from the front end. I am trying that as I need to get the front of the rails down. The fender to door gaps are much better. Although the door to quarter gaps are still ok, I can barely open the doors now. I also saw another post where the OP questioned placement of shims on an OEM subframe at the lower mounts. I am also thinking of trying that.

I couldn’t tell from the photos but do you have the support tubes going from the upper firewall down to the subframe?
Yes.
 

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If you have heim joints on the down tubes you can use them to adjust your fender to door gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I don't have heim joints. Adjustment was done at the factory by using shims where the down bar bolts to the firewall. The M II kit also came with shims. I'm not completely happy with the repop rad support. I plan on resurrecting the oem support. I also plan on cutting the top section of the oem fender wells to use as a brace from the firewall to the top of the support and provide more solid fender/ hood hinge mount.
 

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I don't have heim joints. Adjustment was done at the factory by using shims where the down bar bolts to the firewall. The M II kit also came with shims. I'm not completely happy with the repop rad support. I plan on resurrecting the oem support. I also plan on cutting the top section of the oem fender wells to use as a brace from the firewall to the top of the support and provide more solid fender/ hood hinge mount.
So did you buy the Heidts inner fender wells and the support rods?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Solution

Well, I found the major cause of my problem. I kept having to push down on the front of the fender to line up holes. I found that it was the repop headlight bucket keeping the fender up and distorting it. I took the bucket off, dropped the fender on. Holes lined up, gaps very close now. Buckets require surgery to be used.
 

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Well, I found the major cause of my problem. I kept having to push down on the front of the fender to line up holes. I found that it was the repop headlight bucket keeping the fender up and distorting it. I took the bucket off, dropped the fender on. Holes lined up, gaps very close now. Buckets require surgery to be used.
Oh yeah those things sucked, they kept pushing my fenders out, I tossed those and reused the originals. I still had to shape them to fit because they distorted over the years. Sorry, I should have remembered that.
 
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