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even if the pcv valve were clogged, wouldnt the breather show signs of oil moving up in it. Also if it is not clogged, why would the oil only leak under pressure and not at any other time? Does that gasket have to sit exaclty or is it supposed to stretch a bit? Is it possible the timing chain cover could be slightly bent and cause such a leak?
Yep,
the timing cover can be a suspect...they're stamped and usually suck.some brands are better then others.bm
 

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check the threaded bolt holes to the left of the timing chain cover.
I had one leak when I would get on it it was slightly tapped into the oil flow path:eek: I installed a bolt with sealer on it never leaked again.
 

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I had trouble on a late model block with the vortec timing cover once. The vortec block is different for the timing cover. I had a hard time finding that leak. Just thought I might throw that out there.

Good luck,
KenDog
 

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i have the same problem with the one piece gasket not fitting my rear sump pan.. and m9ine leaks there.. two different one peicers.. it fit fine on my stock 350 chevy pan.. (non nova)..
 

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I worked in a Chevy dealership, parts dept, for a few years. We stocked a dye for the oil system and its a cheap way to detect leaks.

My bet is the damper seal.
 

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If you use the thin front seal gasket on a large seal engine it will leak.
We had a post on this recently.
 

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check the threaded bolt holes to the left of the timing chain cover.
I had one leak when I would get on it it was slightly tapped into the oil flow path:eek: I installed a bolt with sealer on it never leaked again.
Thats most likely the leak sourse IMO. Ive personally been bitten by that bolt hole. I chased a leak at the front of my engine for a week. It looked like the front of the pan. But the oil was wicking around the bolt under a load and running down the front of the pan.The bolt was tight, I put sealer on it and bingo no leaks. The hole is open in the back at the fuel pump push rod, so be sure to use a short bolt.
 

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Oil leak fix needed

I've replaced the oil pan gasket 3x's this week and still have a leak. The first two were the cork style and I finally opted for the Felpro 1pc that I should have got from the start... Anyway it's on with all new hardware but I have a leak at the front of the pan only above 2500 rpm's. I can see it weeping out the side at the bottom of the gasket but MAN I don't want to pull it apart AGAIN:mad: . I'm wondering if there's a trick to getting some RTV in there without dropping the pan again? The directions for the felpro say to use RTV at the front and back of the pan but it apperars I didn't get enough in there.
Any help would be appreciated...
 

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You sure you got the one piece gasket with the correct thickness front seal? I never used RTV with those one piece gaskets. It's imperative that you only snug up the pan, starting from the center of the pan and working towards the ends. DON'T over-tighten!
 

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It's a Felpro OS 34509T I pc blue gasket. I used a torque wrench set to 8lbs for the 7/16" bolts and I started at the front alternating from left to right until I got to the back then I did the 1/2" bolts to 18lbs, front first then the back. I also used the blue plastic holders supplied in the kit. The instructions do say to use a small amount of Rtv sealer "at the junction of the timimg cover and cylinder block" and "at the junction of the rear main bearing cap and cylinder block" The instructions also say to toque the bolts @ 8lbs and 18lbs. I thought I was done this time :beat: .
 

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PN's are here Felpro 1 piece gasket post 17.

If you got the early gasket 74 and earlier and you need the thick one then it will leak.

Remember to order engine parts that fit the engine not the car.
 

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Is there a cross over chart for the PIN numbers? My motor is out of a 69 C-10 pickup so would I need the thick one? The one I have looked thick but I don't have a thin one to compare it to.
 

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Those numbers came out of the Felpro catalog but they may have been superceded by new numbers. Jegs shows your gasket for a 57-74 engine so it's the thin seal.

The pan and timing cover are what you need to match the seal to. If you have a Chrome or aftermarket cover and or pan then the LH dipstick thick seal gasket is the one.

A lot of people make this mistake. This is the fourth time in about 3 months we've had this question. I should merge them together.
 

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Man I'm soooo over replacing the gasket again. My pan is from 64 so it's oem but the motor was rebuilt before it was dropped into the wagon so maybe it does have an aftermarket timimg cover on it. Argh!
 

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Man I'm soooo over replacing the gasket again. My pan is from 64 so it's oem but the motor was rebuilt before it was dropped into the wagon so maybe it does have an aftermarket timimg cover on it. Argh!
But, is your ENGINE from '64? I'm guessing not.
 

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I have no idea what year my oil pan is, but my motor is from a 73 camaro. I went and bought the the thicker gasket set ( if you order oil pan gasket for an 85 monte ss) then that is the one you will get. The part number for the thin gasket is OS34509T and for the thick one is OS34510T. I put on the thick one and no more oil leak...:cool:
 

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I have no idea what year my oil pan is, but my motor is from a 73 camaro. I went and bought the the thicker gasket set ( if you order oil pan gasket for an 85 monte ss) then that is the one you will get. The part number for the thin gasket is OS34509T and for the thick one is OS34510T. I put on the thick one and no more oil leak...:cool:
There ya go! Glad to hear you solved the problem.
 

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Picked up my Felpro 1 piece 1880n gasket today. Looks, feels and fits just great. Box did not come with instructions or any kind of extra clips. Unless I hear otherwise, its going in clean and dry, no silicone. Speed shop guy commented that most of his customers do not use anything. Says their main reason for buying these in the first place is so that they can be reused. A lot of racers around here are tearing motors apart left and right so I can see the usefulness there.

Still waiting for my custom Milodon pump to get here but when I laid this gasket on, every hole lined up just perfectly and the end seals were spot on.
 

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pan

Hey Teddi, i pulled my motor 4 times and replaced the thilnksndifgn;laksdf thing every time due to it leeking. All and all It was because of the Summit racing 7 quart oil pan. The gauge of metal was to thin and when i would torque it down with the one piece gasket it would always leak. I tried both putting sealer in the corners and not putting it in the corners. Either way it didn't leak any differently.

Solution: Bought a 350 dollar Canton Racing 8 quart pan. Put the one piece in and put a scoche of sealer on the corners(a film with the finger). Torqued it down and doesn't drip a drop or even have a juicy fart of oil!

It is most likely your pan, check the metal thickness and if the holes cave in just a little, the slightest amount will create problems.

Good mistake to be learned by my stupidity and youngfullness. I did get real good at pulling th e motor, could get it out in 3 hours, drop tranny, wiring and pulling included. Haha

-Rennskii(have to pull it again to put her in the SS)



doesn't drip a drop or even have a juicy fart of oil=win
 
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