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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I took the beast out for the first drive this season. Boy did it feel great!!

Here is a description of what I am running and my inquiry;
-mild sbc with a Summit aluminum rad (380325)
-Taurus 2 speed fan (temperature switches installed for 185 and 205 for low and high speed respectively
-regular run-of-the-mill 195 thermostat
-used for cruising and don't intend on taking it to the track

The outside temperature is about 10 Celsius (about 50 F), and on my short trip which included a little jump onto the highway and back the engine temperature got up to about 205 (measured from the head). It varied from the mid 190's to 205 with the fan running as required, which isn't too hot.

My major concern is of course how high the temperature may get when warmer weather is here.

I would assume that the high flow, fail safe thermostat is the way to go, but would appreciate opinions on what temperature rating I should go with.

Thank you in advance
 

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I have a 355 and 450hp . I run a flex fan set up with a shroud and changed from a 165 stat to a 180 because i was running hot in traffic with outside temp at about 70. So far with only the stat change I have stayed under 200 degrees and under in traffic. I put the shroud on with the stat change.I will let you know what happens when the weather gets warmer
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I forgot to mention that the temperature probe is in the head, so the temperature will probably be a bit higher according to what I've read in posts here.

Originally I had a 7 blade flex fan with the Summit rad, no shroud and a 160 thermostat. The fan was a little more than 2" from the core, and while cruising it would run at about 175, but would get as high as 195 or 200 in stop-and-go traffic in the heat of the summer

I thought this setup would be better than what I had originally, with all the hype about the Taurus fans.

The thermostat change should make a difference, although I have noticed since originally installing the Summit rad (with a new cap) that my coolant level in the rad drops a couple of inches from the top and won't refill from the overflow after the engine has cooled down. It's been like that since installing the rad (and new cap). The overflow line seems fine, but I think I'll try a new cap. That may make a difference with the overflow situation, and maybe even help slightly with the temperature.
 

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change your thermostat

Change your thermostat to a 180 and you'll be golden. I was measuring from the head as well, and I was getting as high as 235, then it would drop down to 190 then slowly climb back to 235, then drop to 190.

I came on this site, and everyone said, my cooling system was working fine, it was just that my thermostat was cycling at temperature that had the head working in that range and to change to a 180.

I did and I haven't broken 190 since even sitting still in traffic.
 

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63AKDN said:
Here is a description of what I am running and my inquiry;
-mild sbc with a Summit aluminum rad (380325)
-Taurus 2 speed fan (temperature switches installed for 185 and 205 for low and high speed respectively
-regular run-of-the-mill 195 thermostat
-used for cruising and don't intend on taking it to the track
If your low temperature fan switch is set lower than the thermostat temperature, you will have the fan operating all the time. I would install a 180° high flow thermostat. In the Durango Deuce we use a 180° Speedway thermostat, a 380325 radiator, Edelbrock pump and Taurus fan at 185°/205° and the temperature never gets above 200°, even after a 30 km speed run at 8000'.
 

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Thermostats, water pumps and....

I have been using the cooling system stuff from Stewart. They offer several style pumps and hi-flow thermostats. Having that temp sender in the intake is definately the way to go. Check out their website...lots of good info. Wayne from NNN carrys their line.

www.stewartcomponents.net

wilma:shh:
 
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