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Discussion Starter #1
I am changing out my cam - lifters.At the same time over the winter I plan to change out all the main and rod bolts with ARP bolts. I made not get around to completing this till spring cause I am doing other things to the car also. Its winter projects and you all know how that goes. Is it safe to leave the motor open all winter with the pan off and top end removed. I do have it wrapped in a H/D moving blanket and its in a enclosed garage. I am also changing over to the lock-out system and doing the converion on the Idler arm.
 

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A garage is wicked for all kinds of airborn garbage especially if you are doing other work on your car.Just sitting for 1 night in my garage puts a fine layer of dust all over my car even if I wasn't in there doing anything.Score yourself a box of the supersize garbage bags and bag the short block,heads and anything from inside the motor.Only unbag it to do what you gotta do then bag it up again till all the parts are back together and sealed up or you'll be left with a real pain in the ***** to clean later without stripping the whole motor apart.Just keep an eye out for rust,the cylinders in particular.That fine dust floating around will find it's way into every exposed nook and cranny.
 

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1964 Nova SS
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Just walking into the garage or opening the door creates dust. By all means cover and seal all exposed areas of internals. Better yet don't tear it down till your ready to do the total job. That's my opinion:yes:
 

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I am changing out my cam - lifters.At the same time over the winter I plan to change out all the main and rod bolts with ARP bolts. I made not get around to completing this till spring cause I am doing other things to the car also. Its winter projects and you all know how that goes. Is it safe to leave the motor open all winter with the pan off and top end removed. I do have it wrapped in a H/D moving blanket and its in a enclosed garage. I am also changing over to the lock-out system and doing the converion on the Idler arm.
If your changing the main bolts it will need to be line honed to do the job right and it will have strip the block down any ways.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did I let you all know the motor was never pulled from the car. If I have to do anything but change the bolts I guess I will be saving that bright idea for another time. I though I could just change out the bolts one at a time and re-tork. Thats why I ask question from you pro. I am just a parts changer myself.
I will wrap the motor the best I can cause I already have the oil pan off and the intake and valve covers. I also have removed the water pump and the timing chain along with the cam and lifters.
 

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At the poinnt your at already it is just easier to pull the engine out and do the work you want, especially cleaning and of course the oil pan reinstall than to try and do a "nice" job in the car. Either way the big super sized bag works great have done it many times, even when on the engine stand cause dust is everywhere. Any exposed surfaces spray wit WD40 so they won't rust including engine bores, it won't hurt the rings either.:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Ok guys it would not do me any good to ask for your opinions and not use the advice. Here what I have done. I took and put the intake back on with 4 bolts.
I put the timing chain cover back on with 4 bolts. I also put the oil pan back on after draining the old oil out. I did not install any gaskets cause I am just closing it up for protection. I sprayed the whole inside of the motor down before reinstalling these parts. I filled the waterpump holes with plastic bags filled with papertowel to keep them tight. I also filled the exit ends of the header tubes with steel wool just to keep any critters out. I had all the plugs loose so I pulled each one and shot in some WD 40 and put the plugs back in hand tight. Everything should now be button back up till I am ready to start the engine work. Would you all agree or is there more for me to do.
 
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