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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Which is easier. Taking off the entire front clip with engine and transmission off or pull the engine and transmission with core supports in place?
 

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depends what year car you have and what engine/tranny
also depends on what you mean by entire front clip, are you asking about taking front rails off at firewall with engine attached, its not clear
just getting the rad support forward out first then engine, makes engine easier

I just put an inline 6 with muncie attached into a 63 with all front end on, except rad..no way with rad still in
it was tight, jacked front up 6" and back 12" then once got tranny tail shaft to floor got a floor jack under it and jacked up is dropped engine down, probably didn't have an inch to spare
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes is it better to disconnect the core supports from the firewall and pull engine and Tranny out forward along with front suspension and wheels and fenders...Or is it just as easy to remove front radiator and front support and pull it out forward
 

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not sure what you mean by core support, front clip usually means the entire frame rails front of fire wall, core support is usually the part at front of frame rails that holds radiator

but if you are asking about taking entire front clip off with engine attached that completely depends on your goals for front end and engine
the entire front clip with engine is going to be pretty big/bulky and heavy, maybe you have the equipment to handle but seems a very odd way to do it

its pretty common for people to ask questions and not give near enough back ground info to get anywhere near accurate advise, you end up with alot of..it depends answers
 

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I just swapped the engine in my 67 (408 to 434) and didn't even remove the hood or radiator, and my radiator has an electric fan as well. Just take 6 bell housing bolts and 3 torque converter bolts out, 2 motor mount bolts. Take the 2 top hood bolts out and loosen the 2 bottom bolts the hood will easily lift high enough. I would scribe around the bolts for ease of adjustment later. I f you want to take the trans out just use a piece of wood and floor jack after the engine is out. You start messing with core supports, taking the bolts off that hold the sub-frame and all that other stuff you're gonna have alignment issues and a ton of aggravation. It took me a total of 10 minutes from engine stand to bell housing bolts and motor mount bolts and I work alone, I watch teams of 5 guys on those build shows try wrangling an engine and trans in together, hitting everything in sight and scratching everything up. I just shake my head, you save no time putting the engine and trans in together if you spent 5 to 8 hours messing with the sub-frame, keep it simple.
 

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As "doerf" has stated. Depends on the task your wanting to do.
If you are wanting to pull the engine, the easiest way is to remove hood, radiator and core support (metal piece across the front, between fenders that the radiator / radiator shroud is attached. The engine can then be lifted out with or without the transmission. If you leave transmission attached to engine, most likely you'll have to get the car the ground some to allow transmission tail to slant down towards floor while you lift the engine up to pull out above bumper / front suspension.

If you are wanting to replace entire front clip with an aftermarket version, then you could unbolt at firewall and roll the whole assembly away from car. This would require the need to support the front clip assembly fore and aft of tires.
Be easier to remove engine then the clip.
 

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I just swapped the engine in my 67 (408 to 434) and didn't even remove the hood or radiator, and my radiator has an electric fan as well. Just take 6 bell housing bolts and 3 torque converter bolts out, 2 motor mount bolts. Take the 2 top hood bolts out and loosen the 2 bottom bolts the hood will easily lift high enough. I would scribe around the bolts for ease of adjustment later. I f you want to take the trans out just use a piece of wood and floor jack after the engine is out. You start messing with core supports, taking the bolts off that hold the sub-frame and all that other stuff you're gonna have alignment issues and a ton of aggravation. It took me a total of 10 minutes from engine stand to bell housing bolts and motor mount bolts and I work alone, I watch teams of 5 guys on those build shows try wrangling an engine and trans in together, hitting everything in sight and scratching everything up. I just shake my head, you save no time putting the engine and trans in together if you spent 5 to 8 hours messing with the sub-frame, keep it simple.
Not even the Hood? Your good.
 

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I pulled the 6 out of my car with only removing rad, but unbolted from tranny, hood on, rad support on
but needed to remove hood to get back in with tranny attached

edit...I just looked through my pics, I did remove hood before pulling engine :)
 

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I find it easier to pull the engine and transmission out together with the core support removed. You don’t need a severe angle to get them out of or back into the hole.. If you are going to remove the front clip as well I would still pull the drivetrain separately.. I’ve had problems with the steering box and or linkag being stubborn and resisting to come loose. If this were to happen with the drivetrain in place it will be a pretty awkward and unpleasant removal process.. Just my thoughts on the matter.
Which is easier. Taking off the entire front clip with engine and transmission off or pull the engine and transmission with core supports in place?
 

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Hood stays on, radiator and fan stay in, I'm used to getting things into much smaller areas in Yota's and Honda's, working alone for years I've had to find ways of doing things that would surprise many lol.
Yeah, I thought everyone knew this. You put it in from the bottom.
 

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I haven't yanked a motor out of the Nova yet but I've done other swaps on other cars. Never one have I disassembled the body to facilitate the removal of the motor. I can 100% understand where yanking the core support would make it easier to pull the motor/trans. I also think that if you did remove the fenders etc. that you'd have a much easier time with it all, more access and you wouldn't worry about dorking your paint or panels...with the motor at least, you might dork the panels and paint removing and reinstalling the fenders though.
 

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And having a tilt rig makes things super easy when you're pulling a motor/trans all alone. Just be sure someone knows you're doing it and knows when you start. I got stuck under my Elky as a teenager and it took me hours to find a way to get out. Pinched just enough I couldn't get out, but not enough to hurt me.

Rectangle Wood Machine Metal Fashion accessory
 

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I just swapped the engine in my 67 (408 to 434) and didn't even remove the hood or radiator, and my radiator has an electric fan as well. Just take 6 bell housing bolts and 3 torque converter bolts out, 2 motor mount bolts. Take the 2 top hood bolts out and loosen the 2 bottom bolts the hood will easily lift high enough. I would scribe around the bolts for ease of adjustment later. I f you want to take the trans out just use a piece of wood and floor jack after the engine is out. You start messing with core supports, taking the bolts off that hold the sub-frame and all that other stuff you're gonna have alignment issues and a ton of aggravation. It took me a total of 10 minutes from engine stand to bell housing bolts and motor mount bolts and I work alone, I watch teams of 5 guys on those build shows try wrangling an engine and trans in together, hitting everything in sight and scratching everything up. I just shake my head, you save no time putting the engine and trans in together if you spent 5 to 8 hours messing with the sub-frame, keep it simple.
Want to do mine when I need it
 

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It might be a little intimidating but it’s really not that big of a deal. Most of the time I yank the transmission with the motor in one swoop.

1. disconnect your driveshaft and use duct tape on the u joints.
2. Drain fluids. Disconnect hoses and electrical and label stuff if you’re not sure of where stuff goes. this includes linkage, speedo cable etc. Take photos using your phone. We didn’t have this back in the day and it’s super useful.
3. Remove radiator so you don’t punch a hole in it.
4. Unbolt transmission from crossmember / remove crossmember.
5. Unbolt motor from mounts.
6. Let air out of your front tires if you need a few more inches of clearance but honestly I’ve pulled motors out of stuff that sits a lot higher off of the ground than these novas, like trucks and with a normal engine hoist you should have no issues clearing.

if you’re super duper worried Pull off the front sheet metal but I would caution you that getting it back on and aligned can be a pain in the butthole
 

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Yes is it better to disconnect the core supports from the firewall and pull engine and Tranny out forward along with front suspension and wheels and fenders...Or is it just as easy to remove front radiator and front support and pull it out forward
I may have missed it but what year is your car?
 
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