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With all the different types of oils available for engines these days what kind do you run for an engine with a flat tappet cam? I am looking at running Royal Purple HPS which has zinc in it.
 

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Most anything that is only API SL or earlier is good. The newest Valvoline VR1 stuff is low zink. I've seen wiped cam lobes with that oil.

On our 250 straight six, we run PennGrade 1. We also run an oil analysis now with every oil change. I look for zinc at least 1200 PPM after it's been in there for 6 months. Ours is very low miles driven, only on weekends at special events and rarely over 10 miles per weekend. Even with that, we were at 1320 PPM at the last oil change.

Speedway Motors has a good chart showing the high zinc oils that you can get from them. Most are available at other outlets as well.


With all the different types of oils available for engines these days what kind do you run for an engine with a flat tappet cam? I am looking at running Royal Purple HPS which has zinc in it.
After researching your question, I'm seriously considering Royal Purple HPS now as well.
 

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Brad Penn 10w40 or the Lucas Hot Rod/Classic Car, that being said if Duntov himself came back to life and offered to install it with me I'd turn him down and go roller. My last flat tappet ended in disaster on a beautiful 434 during proper break-in resulting in over 3K in damage....never again.
 

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Oops. Posted this reply in the wrong thread.


I've been running an aggressive,custom grind SFT cam in an engine for 3 years. Ordered the whole kit,cam/lifters/springs/retainers/locators/keepers,from a company run by a guy that has won the Engine Masters Challenge a couple times. The oil recommended with the kit was 20W50 VR1 ONLY and that's all it's ever seen. After the first couple lashings during break in I've only set the valves in spring and don't touch them till the following spring. When I checked them this year they almost didn't need adjustment. I have been pleasantly surprised because this is a street car that,unfortunately,spends 99% of it's time below 2000 rpm in city traffic with lots of idling and I had some concerns about potential wear issues. SFT is not ideal for the usage but hydraulic flat was was just too mild and roller wasn't an option. Good quality parts is important but I'll vouch for VR1 also. What better name than Lake Speed! Born to do hot rod stuff.
 

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Lake Jr's dad...Lake Speed was my NASCAR hero...He did more with less than most. Really nice guy also! Also, for years I ran VR-1 20 w 50 & then 10 w 30 with several oz of Lucas zinc additive. Never any issues. I switched to Lucas because Howards Cam tech recommended. No issues with this either.
 

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The cheap stuff fom Tractor Supply in the 5gal bucket... seriously. 20k on my Howards cam so far and no issues. All the talk about cams goin bad jas me wanting to add a bottle of Lucas zinc additive per 5 gal bu I don't think it's necessary, just insurance. The key is proper breakin with moly lube paste on the lobes... not the red liquid
 

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The cheap stuff fom Tractor Supply in the 5gal bucket... seriously. 20k on my Howards cam so far and no issues. All the talk about cams goin bad jas me wanting to add a bottle of Lucas zinc additive per 5 gal bu I don't think it's necessary, just insurance. The key is proper breakin with moly lube paste on the lobes... not the red liquid
It's real, I lost a hydraulic flat tapped cam on a 454 with modern oil.
 
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