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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, if you've seen my earlier threads you know I have a 283 that's been sitting a while. I've been able to get it to run, not great but pretty good.

I can get it running and after a few starts with starting spray, it will idle OK. Not the smoothest idle but I'm working on that. I think I may check the valve lash next.

But when I go to hit the gas, it'll die. Not even stomping on it. If I do this by hand from within the engine compartment, there's a big sucking sound from the carb (factory Rochester 2GV). Sounds like Darth Vader breathing really loudly. I have the air cleaner off. Maybe this is normal.

What are the usual suspects of an engine dying when gassed? Fuel pump not strong enough? Vacuum advance unit on the distributor?

I've already replaced most of the ignition system, and the timing at idle is correct, and the dwell is correct. About to replace the vacuum advance hose and the other vacuum hose on the back of the carb.

Thanks for looking!
 

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after sitting for extended amount of time the accelerator pump goes south. possibly the pump bore is damaged from old fuel etc too.

a carb rebuild kit would be on the top of my list... along with gas tank swap/clean, replace all fluids & filters, brakes flushed/rebuild-replace all rubber items, hoses, wheel cylinder, master cylinder etc...
 

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Yep sounds like its carb rebuild time. I just went through an old quadrajet that had been sitting for about a year and it was nasty inside from the fuel evaporating and moisture. I got a rebuild kit for 25 bucks at my local O Rilley's and spent about an hour cleaning and rebuilding and poof! New car! Take your time and also do some research on the interwebs to get a little insight on your carb first.
 

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Ahh the jiffy kit... Good stuff on the paperwork that came with my kit for tuning etc... It seems to me that carb rebuilding and setting timing has become a lost art. I remember replacing and setting dwell with the points in my old 6 cylinder... People my age and younger would have no idea what breaker points are!
 

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Yup, just follow the steps and do everything they tell ya...

not too too hard if you simply follow the instructions and spend the proper time cleaning the core...

although sometimes from sitting too long the core is etched/damaged...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ahhhh, thank you very much! reading the jiffy kit docs now.

Haven't been able to find a rebuild kit locally yet, think I will have to order one and wait.

In the meantime I found a couple tips I will try:

With engine off, spray a bunch of carb cleaner into the float vent, to fill up the float bowl with high concentration of cleaner. Then run the engine. Hopefully the cleaner can get to all the places it needs to go, not just down the main bore.

With engine off and looking down the throat, activate the throttle body. Should see fuel squirt into the throat. This is the accelerator pump. If fuel squirts in then the pump may be OK. If not... definitely need to get in there and find out why.

I think a carb rebuild is in my future but maybe I can get some improvement from these methods today.
 

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sounds like you're OK. take a look and see what ya see and go from there. if you have any issues, we can help.

so far though it's sounding like you have everything or will have everything... under control. good luck, hope it all works out for ya. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I found the accelerator pump working, two squirts of fuel visible when I hit the throttle arm.

I squirted a ton of chemtool into the bowl and then it started easier and idled a little better. But still hesitated when given gas.

I did find a carb rebuild kit locally for $15.99 at the most unlikely of places (the large chain store with the 15 year old professors behind the counter) so that's next.

Will I need to dip the whole carb, or can I just take it apart and spray/wipe it down? I will probably rebuild 1 more carb in the next year, but not many more afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK here I am, finally pulling the carb off to rebuild it. But....

At the front of the carb where it mates to the intake, there's quite a bit of rust. The gasket was completely crumbles and gone. Lots of air leaking in here, which is why adjusting the air mixture screws made no difference when I tried it before.

The underside of the carb mounting plate also not a smooth surface anymore.

So my question is... should I just mount it back up and hope for the best?

Or should I put a real small amount of RTV/permatex/etc to fill in the rough spots? I'm aware RTV doesn't play nice with gas but I don't think it should be in direct contact with gas.

I think the rough spots may be up to 1/32" deep.

One of the studs was really bad, about 50% thickness of normal in one spot :wow: But it came out easy after soaking it in some penetrant. I'll be replacing them.
 

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New carb

I've dealt with carbs like that in the past, sometimes they are beyond repair. Personally before I spent alot on a 2 bbl carb, I'd check into a reman. You may be surprised that you might find one really cheap, before you dump alot of money into that one. There are tons of carbs for sale on the internet.
 
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