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Discussion Starter #1
OKAY, so i have gotten my engine on the frame, it is currently missing pretty much everything accessory wise.

i need to buy, the starter alternator distributor, a carb, a fan and fan clutch.

i think thats all for the motor itself, but i also need to get a radiator and gas tank for the appropriate fluids, along with the hoses for the rad and gas line, fuel pump and whatever else goes on with plumbing fuel, I have no idea what i am doing in that respect.

Now, my question is, what do i need for the electrical side of the engine?

i have looked at distributors, and im having trouble with them, i know i need a cap rotor and the actual distributor, but i have come across something called a contact set, and a condenser. what are these for? and do i actually need them or are they specialty equipment?

and for a carburated engine what do i need to plumb the fuel system?

my plan is to get the transmission on the engine after i have everything else on it, and get it running properly before i start assembling the rest of the body around it and make it harder to do later.

i have posted this before doing a whole lot of research, mainly because i dont have the time tonight, but i plan on asking around more tomorow and digging a bit deeper, but am hoping i can get some guidance from you helpful people here before i go out and start buying things and playing lego with parts i dont know.

thanks again
 

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Start by posting some good pictures of the engine you have as it sits in the frame (or not in the frame yet...). Give us several different views so we can see what you have, in order that we can tell you what you still need.
 

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"something called a contact set, and a condenser"

This is a set of points and condensor if you are running a points type distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Start by posting some good pictures of the engine you have as it sits in the frame (or not in the frame yet...). Give us several different views so we can see what you have, in order that we can tell you what you still need.
Will do, I'll get pics this weekend as I'm not at the garage till Saturday

I will upload the pics I took before it being on the frame when I get back home today though.

"something called a contact set, and a condenser"

This is a set of points and condensor if you are running a points type distributor.
I quickly looked into that, and my options are a points type or hei distributor, if I want to make a modern ignition system I would go with hei, and fom what I've read all I new to do is put the cap on and wire it properly right?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so heres a bunch of pictures.
first are the frame mounts, I am concerned about them because there is considerable space in front and behind the mount, that and the bolt i was given with my napa motor mounts isnt threaded enough to tighten the bolt and nut to each side of the mount. hard to explain but you can see in the pics there is space.




secondly, because of this space im thinking its sitting lower than it should be, and my oil pan is sitting somewhat on the crossmember.





i was expecting this, as the engine came out of a truck and its a moroso deep sump pan so the engine had oil when he was at larger angles. it has enough clearance for me that i can see so far, its just if its hitting the frame too much, ill have to put a different one on.


here are some pics of the engine as it is.

i have an alternator off a late 80s corvette, not sure what amperage it puts out, but i assume it would be enough to charge a battery for a simple stereo and no other accessories.



ill get a pic of that later too, i picked it up for 30 bucks and it has the same v belt pulley that i have for the water pump and thats on the crank pulley.

heres the manifold, as you can see i have nothing for it, starting fresh.

i also have no idea what some holes are for but i can deal with that as the time comes.



another pic, i have no idea what this hole is for, help is again, appreciated

 

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That hole in the side of the block is for a coolant temp sensor or knock sensor.
 

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Coolant sensor like stated or plug it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay, cool, so I can just find a threaded plug and plug it up and not worry about anything?

Second, I fixed the mount issue.

Napa mounts blow, I found a second part number for another set and those were too small to fit on the frame mount.

Went to the local Camaro and firebird guy and he had the perfect replacement, about an eighth of play from frame mount to motor mount, and a bunch of washers to shim it one I have it set it with the transmission and all.

Now all I need to do is buy the appropriate parts and slap me on the engine
 

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If the alternator is indeed from a late 80's Corvette, then you'll have to do a bit of creative wiring to make it work. I highly recommend reading the alternator primer article on the Pirate 4x4 website.

I'd recommend an HEI distributor for you. You can order one from the parts store, rockauto.com, Summit, Jeg's - pretty much anywhere. Be a bit careful buying one from a junkyard, because if something is blown in it, then you might end up spending just as much fixing it as you could have bought a new one for. The coil is integral with the cap, and it's a 2-wire hookup if you include the tachometer pickup wire (which is not required.) Make sure you get a constant (switched on the ignition switch) 12 volts to it, though, as the '68 Nova wire harness may have a dropping resistor in it. If you get an HEI, then you do not need points or a condensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If the alternator is indeed from a late 80's Corvette, then you'll have to do a bit of creative wiring to make it work. I highly recommend reading the alternator primer article on the Pirate 4x4 website.

I'd recommend an HEI distributor for you. You can order one from the parts store, rockauto.com, Summit, Jeg's - pretty much anywhere. Be a bit careful buying one from a junkyard, because if something is blown in it, then you might end up spending just as much fixing it as you could have bought a new one for. The coil is integral with the cap, and it's a 2-wire hookup if you include the tachometer pickup wire (which is not required.) Make sure you get a constant (switched on the ignition switch) 12 volts to it, though, as the '68 Nova wire harness may have a dropping resistor in it. If you get an HEI, then you do not need points or a condensor.


i do not have a wiring harness, so as it stands im just kind of rigging it as i go, and i havent even started anything electrical yet, and i figured the engine would be the best place to start.

i plan on hei, its about 280 bucks or something from napa or gm, as for the wires, two wires excluding the ground right? the one i saw when i was at a friends (who was installing a 402 into his truck) had a red white and black i believe, one is power and ground, and the third being the tach?

when i was at napa pricing things out, i was told the coil is a seperate unit, maybe he was thinking about some sort of coil booster or something? i have seen similar things on cars with a big cylinder on the inner fender or something wired to the distributor.

but maybe that was just a starter solenoid or something. again, no idea in this regard.

and what about the alternator? is has a bolt with bat under it and an old round connector im assuming came from the positive battery, and it has two pins coming out of the top, ill grab a pic tomorrow. but again while snooping around napa i found an alternator connector, white plug with a white and red wire coming out of it, and it looks like it would plug perfectly onto the two male pins on the alternator.

thanks for the help and I will check back tomorrow after i dig around a bit more.
 

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shop around on the distributor - $280 seems pretty high to me. The 3-wire plug goes from the distributor body to the square box protruding from the cap. The other two pins are the 2 wires I'm talking about - power and tach. That's it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
shop around on the distributor - $280 seems pretty high to me. The 3-wire plug goes from the distributor body to the square box protruding from the cap. The other two pins are the 2 wires I'm talking about - power and tach. That's it.
Might be 180, I can't remember, I have a quote laying around somewhere, but I checked JB power center and they have some listed at130-200 with a 50k coil

And thanks for the info I was wondering what the wires could have possibly gone to.

found an hei someone is selling that came with his zz4 crate, he has one already so hes selling the one that came with it for 75 bucks, and ive found an edelbrock 1406 for 200.

i just need to find a starter thats right for my flywheel. which leads me to the next question.

any tips on removing the flexplate currently on the engine? its got those anti vibration washers on it and all i end up doing is turning the engine, do i just have someone put a ratchet on the crank pulley? and hold it as tight as possible? im just worried that might loosen the pulley bolt first.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok, so i picked up an hei ditributor, going to put it in sometime this week...

that said, here are some pictures and of course questions






from my small amount of research this is a delco 12si unit. its off an 81 corvette.

my understanding is, wire from battery terminal to "bat" bolt, wire from number 2 goes to the positive node on my battery, and number 1 wire goes to the ignition.

question, does it go on the start tower on my ignition switch, or to the on (always running? i dont know what to call it) tower?



heres the manifold, edelbrock performer, and if i am correct from top to bottom, its the distributor carb, coolant intake, also where the thermostat goes, the coolant return line is on the bottom of the water pump, and if i remember correctly, the coolant to the heater core is on the top of the water pump, and the heater core return line goes into the hole thats to the right of the thermostat housing?

lastly, i dont know what this hole here is for, its threaded.


and i know these are vacuum ports, but what do i put into them?


thanks again guys, soon this thing will be able to start up
 

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ok, so i picked up an hei ditributor, going to put it in sometime this week...

that said, here are some pictures and of course questions






from my small amount of research this is a delco 12si unit. its off an 81 corvette.

my understanding is, wire from battery terminal to "bat" bolt, wire from number 2 goes to the positive node on my battery, and number 1 wire goes to the ignition.

question, does it go on the start tower on my ignition switch, or to the on (always running? i dont know what to call it) tower?



heres the manifold, edelbrock performer, and if i am correct from top to bottom, its the distributor carb, coolant intake, also where the thermostat goes, the coolant return line is on the bottom of the water pump, and if i remember correctly, the coolant to the heater core is on the top of the water pump, and the heater core return line goes into the hole thats to the right of the thermostat housing?

lastly, i dont know what this hole here is for, its threaded.


and i know these are vacuum ports, but what do i put into them?


thanks again guys, soon this thing will be able to start up
the hole you are pointing to in the last pic is the oil sender connection
 

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another pic, i have no idea what this hole is for, help is again, appreciated

That appears to be a fitting for a mechanical temp gauge. You can't just install a pipe plug in it, as it is not a pipe thread. If you don't use it, you'll need to remove the fitting and put a pipe plug in the head.
 

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OK, your alternator is not from a "late" 80's Corvette - the one you have is a standard Delco unit that's easy to wire up. Still look at the Pirate 4x4 website to show you how to wire it up.

The threaded hole in the block is for an oil pressure sending unit. You can put a sender for an idiot light there or a gauge or both, if you use a tee. It does have to be plugged with something before you crank the engine, though, or it's going to blow oil all over the place.

The vacuum ports on the intake manifold can be plugged until you find something you need them for.

Be aware that you can't just drop the distributor in any old way and expect it to fire correctly - you have to put it in in the right orientation, with the rotor facing the right way. It also has to engage the oil pump drive shaft. Don't crank the engine with the starter until you have the distributor stabbed in, because the distributor is what drives the oil pump.
 

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so heres a bunch of pictures.
first are the frame mounts, I am concerned about them because there is considerable space in front and behind the mount, that and the bolt i was given with my napa motor mounts isnt threaded enough to tighten the bolt and nut to each side of the mount. hard to explain but you can see in the pics there is space.

Looks like you need the tall skinny mounts. The tall skinny mounts are for a 72 with 350 engine. Stock mounts are Anchor 2283 for both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
That appears to be a fitting for a mechanical temp gauge. You can't just install a pipe plug in it, as it is not a pipe thread. If you don't use it, you'll need to remove the fitting and put a pipe plug in the head.
okay, i will get on that shortly

OK, your alternator is not from a "late" 80's Corvette - the one you have is a standard Delco unit that's easy to wire up. Still look at the Pirate 4x4 website to show you how to wire it up.

The threaded hole in the block is for an oil pressure sending unit. You can put a sender for an idiot light there or a gauge or both, if you use a tee. It does have to be plugged with something before you crank the engine, though, or it's going to blow oil all over the place.

The vacuum ports on the intake manifold can be plugged until you find something you need them for.

Be aware that you can't just drop the distributor in any old way and expect it to fire correctly - you have to put it in in the right orientation, with the rotor facing the right way. It also has to engage the oil pump drive shaft. Don't crank the engine with the starter until you have the distributor stabbed in, because the distributor is what drives the oil pump.
yeah i corrected myself, its an 81 corvette, not late 80's and my research says its a delco 12si unit. and yeah i checked out pirate 4x4, on top of many other sites, this unit is extremely simple to wire in, so im not too concerned about it.


and as for the distributor, I have done alot of research regarding that. and I am pretty confident i can do it properly, #1 at tdc, and line up the rotor to point at #1, make sure it all stays like that and connects properly with the oil pump. The few ive watched being installed, the mechanic didnt line up the rotor, he just put it in with #1 at tdc, and lined up a tower with the rotor and wired the plugs accordingly, was much quicker, but he said that if you do that sometims the vacuum advance may get in the way of something.

Looks like you need the tall skinny mounts. The tall skinny mounts are for a 72 with 350 engine. Stock mounts are Anchor 2283 for both sides.
yeah i solved that issue, the napa mounts i got, where the wrong kind, they have two part no.2 602-1127 and 602-1107, 1127 was listed for camaros (whioch this frame is from) and 1107 was listed for novas. NEITHER WORKED. i think the tall skinnier mounts would have worked for the nova engine mount, as it was just barely too small to fit over these frame mounts.

this was fixed by our local firebird and camaro guy, who brought me a set of mounts that worked perfectly with my frame mounts and the pan is no longer hitting the frame and the mount fits just a tiny bit loose on the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
also i forgot to ask about one problem. my alternator doesnt fit in the bracket currently set up on the engine.



even with the top hole put over to the right more, the bottom hole does not line up.

not too sure, but seems like i need a new mounting bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ok.

i have the alternator bracket worked out, and now the alt fits in nicely.

i have a distributor, and ive found a radiator, and bought the water temp and oil pressure gauges. i am picking up a carb pretty soon, looking at edelbrock...1406 i believe the number is, 650 cfm vacuum secondaries and such.

now i need to go down the line to the transmission.

its a 4 speed saginaw, not too sure what kinda power it can take, but i dont have alot and ill be careful not to torture it too much.

i got the flexplate off and put the flywheel on, 10" i believe, ill find out for sure later on. I am just wondering, is a pilot bearing always on an engine or are they only used for manual transmission applications? as it stands i think all i need to do is align the clutch, put the pressure plate over it and tighten it all up, pull the alignment tool out,and slide the tranny on. is this correct?

also, the clutch, the springs stick out more on one side than the other, does the side where they stick out more face the tranny or the engine? my first thoughts lead me to believe it faces the tranny, as it is, thats the only way the flywheel face actually meets the clutch pad. i will grab a couple pictures of everything tonight.

lastly, what kind of oil should i put in this transmission? i have a bunch of gear oil from when i replaced my truck transmission last year, does this one also use gear oil or is there something else? (i know not to use AT fluid)

again, thanks for helping, and i will have more pictures in a few hours
 
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