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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey! before I continue I'd like to thank everyone that answered my questions, Veno, Big Al, 6nova4, Bowtie0069, D-man and many others, did i mention Veno? this is what you have produced.

the block had rust in one of the cylinder walls so i sent it to the machine shop to have it fixed, they sleeved the cylinder all were punched 40 over, clearanced for the stroker crank, decked and painted.


Prepped my rotating assembly checked clearance and it all checked out.


purdy aint it?


all the pistons were installed with a minor problem, screwed up one of the bearings and kinda opened up the cap but it was no big-e


the cam is an extreme energy 284/290:devil:


Moroso Oil pump


Then installed the head bolt studs from arp


Slapped on the trick flow heads, followed the bolt on pattern, torqued to 85 ft lbs




got the rocker arms installed sorta..


So today me and my bro ran into a little bit of a problem. we were installing the damper or balancer when the installation bolt broke:mad: now its stuck in there! what i think were going to do is drill it out with one of those special bits that does that sort of stuff. Also going to part hunting on sunday to the long beach swapmeet hopefully ill be able to pick up the intake and the distributor. Ill be ordering the street avenger 770 from summit next week. Ill keep updating as we progress.. advice is welcome.
 

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Hey! before I continue I'd like to thank everyone that answered my questions, Veno, Big Al, 6nova4, Bowtie0069, D-man and many others, did i mention Veno? this is what you have produced.

So today me and my bro ran into a little bit of a problem. we were installing the damper or balancer when the installation bolt broke:mad: now its stuck in there! what i think were going to do is drill it out with one of those special bits that does that sort of stuff. Also going to part hunting on sunday to the long beach swapmeet hopefully ill be able to pick up the intake and the distributor. Ill be ordering the street avenger 770 from summit next week. Ill keep updating as we progress.. advice is welcome.
Ok.... Now it's time to get a left handed set of drill bits and the PROPER balancer/damper installation tool..:yes: Proform sells a damper installation/removal tool that works GREAT and it's only $60-$70...

You MIGHT be able to use a punch to turn what's left of the bolt that's broke off depending on how deep it's broke off.


Now the REAL fun begins....:D

Thanks for the kudos. Glad I could help.
 

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Looking good.................................................................


I notice the purposeful lack of the pic with the broken BOLT!:devil:....

man,,, now..... this is what separates the boys from the hotrodders.... and you just learned lesson # 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 If you think the bolt is tight... stop! If the bolt seems tight... stop!

now you know what force it takes to twist a 7/16 -18 bolt in half:eek:


d-man has a good line on the fix.....patients is now the order of the day:rolleyes:

BTW thanks for the shout out.. its all good.. jus helpin where I could...

Veno
 

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I feel for ya bro. Every time I think things are going good I feel like the guy who gets hit with the dipstick! I sweat it every time I press a balencer into place even with a MAC Tools installer, it just seems like a good place for a mess up. Were you using a little lube to help it press on? I don't like to flood them but just a little to ensure it doesn't gall up or take too much force doesn't hurt.
 

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I feel for ya bro. Every time I think things are going good I feel like the guy who gets hit with the dipstick! I sweat it every time I press a balencer into place even with a MAC Tools installer, it just seems like a good place for a mess up. Were you using a little lube to help it press on? I don't like to flood them but just a little to ensure it doesn't gall up or take too much force doesn't hurt.
Same here along with a little on the seal side to make sure it doesn't damage the seal going on.:yes:

Throwing the damper in the oven for 10 minutes or so at 350* (to get it up to about 200*---an infrared temp gun comes in handy:yes:) will make it go on a bit easier as well.:D If you're gonna use that trick just make sure and WASH it with soap and water before you put it in and apply the lube right before installation.:yes: Otherwise anything you cook in that oven from that point on will taste a little off.:D
 

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Were you using an installer, or just trying to pull it on with the bolt? I have broken installers by tightening the center bolt too tight, then cranking on the nut--if you leave the bolt slightly loose, then tighten the nut, things go more smoothly. If you have a real snug one like the one I did this week, I used a rubber mallet to help it along-tighten the nut a little-tap it with the mallet, a little tighter...a little mallet.......
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looking good.................................................................


I notice the purposeful lack of the pic with the broken BOLT!:devil:....

man,,, now..... this is what separates the boys from the hotrodders.... and you just learned lesson # 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 If you think the bolt is tight... stop! If the bolt seems tight... stop!

now you know what force it takes to twist a 7/16 -18 bolt in half:eek:


d-man has a good line on the fix.....patients is now the order of the day:rolleyes:

BTW thanks for the shout out.. its all good.. jus helpin where I could...

Veno
Yup I've learned quite a few lessons, my excuse is that I'm young and dumb and its my 1st hotrod. I didn't think to get a pic of the broken bolt I was busy trying to think of a way to fix it..

I feel for ya bro. Every time I think things are going good I feel like the guy who gets hit with the dipstick! I sweat it every time I press a balencer into place even with a MAC Tools installer, it just seems like a good place for a mess up. Were you using a little lube to help it press on? I don't like to flood them but just a little to ensure it doesn't gall up or take too much force doesn't hurt.
We were using a MAC tools installer and it just snapped, then again we were putting our weight on it because it didn't seem like it was going all the way in.


Same here along with a little on the seal side to make sure it doesn't damage the seal going on.:yes:

Throwing the damper in the oven for 10 minutes or so at 350* (to get it up to about 200*---an infrared temp gun comes in handy:yes:) will make it go on a bit easier as well.:D If you're gonna use that trick just make sure and WASH it with soap and water before you put it in and apply the lube right before installation.:yes: Otherwise anything you cook in that oven from that point on will taste a little off.:D
I might end up doing that... will heating it with a torch work the same?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Were you using an installer, or just trying to pull it on with the bolt? I have broken installers by tightening the center bolt too tight, then cranking on the nut--if you leave the bolt slightly loose, then tighten the nut, things go more smoothly. If you have a real snug one like the one I did this week, I used a rubber mallet to help it along-tighten the nut a little-tap it with the mallet, a little tighter...a little mallet.......
tired the mallet, with out the installer. how close to the timing chain cover should the balancer be?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Update!

so the broken bolt came off using my finger to turn it. and about the balancer problem, the back keyway is a little big so erre gonna use the dye grinder on it. who knew it would be that easy. now we have the performer rpm intake on it and the street avenger 770 all bolted up and ready to go! here the pics



yes that is a for windsor in the back not mine i swear!

cant wait to work on it this friday.. should have the valves adjusted, valve covers, fuel pump and line maybe even the distributor!! im excite!
 

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I might end up doing that... will heating it with a torch work the same?
I wouldn't use a torch.:no: Unless I dropped it in a pan of water and used the torch to heat the pan.:D
 

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Ok.... Now it's time to get a left handed set of drill bits and the PROPER balancer/damper installation tool..:yes: Proform sells a damper installation/removal tool that works GREAT and it's only $60-$70...

You MIGHT be able to use a punch to turn what's left of the bolt that's broke off depending on how deep it's broke off.


Now the REAL fun begins....:D

Thanks for the kudos. Glad I could help.
I used mostly grade 8's and locktite on my engine build...If I remember right...That should be torqued at 65 ft lbs..Should have never broke...Thats the first I've heard of one breaking anyway...Good luck getting it out...
 

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Sweet looking build.Everything looks to be going awesome!


I did the same thing when putting the balancer on my 350.I was using the installer.(For the first time)And I didn't think it was on far enough.I ended up snapping the stupid installer.The one I had was a cheapy from oreilly's.Like yours though it came right out.

I just measured the length of the crank snout.And the width of the harmonic balancer.Then I subtracted the length of the balancer.I don't remember what it was but it ended up being on correctly.Just make sure not to mess up those threads in the crank snout because then you have big problems.


One more thing.PLEASE OH PLEASE don't try to spin that motor over with the intake and carb on there.When I was putting my motor togother I had the top end togother including the carb and air fiter.Tried to turn the motor upside down on the stand and dropped the motor on my brand new intake and my trusty edelbrock carb.

That's the first thing I thought of when I saw that 3 legged engine stand!


And oh yeah don't forget to install that oil pump driveshaft!



Keep up the good work!
 

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Remember if you are running a new aftermarket crank and damper you have to get the machine shop to measure the fit between the two. Many dampers are just half finished and requires honing to get the correct fit.:)
 

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Throwing the damper in the oven for 10 minutes or so at 350* (to get it up to about 200*---an infrared temp gun comes in handy:yes:) will make it go on a bit easier as well.:D If you're gonna use that trick just make sure and WASH it with soap and water before you put it in and apply the lube right before installation.:yes: Otherwise anything you cook in that oven from that point on will taste a little off.:D
Hmmm, reminds me when we used to bake potatoes in the small heat treat furnace on the back shifts. Them things always had a slight twang to them!
 

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Loving the pics and the build. Like to see a guy doing it right.

I know yer past the balancer install issue but maybe for the next guy. The tool has a bearing on it, a good one should. The treads that go into the snout of the crank are just to hold the tool in there. The end of the tool has a nut that rides on the bearing to press the balancer on..

I have a tavia tool, painless. http://www.circletracksupply.com/product.php?productid=222

But back to your build. Keep the posts coming, bet yer itching to hear her rumble huh.. Thanks for posting. We all love the step by step process... JR
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Good progress there and hope that is the extent of your engine woes. Keep the post going, I'm in the same stage and this thread is helpful. Are you gonna go back and touch up the orange paint where its exposed on the block?
i kinda dont like the orange that much.. the red-orange on the lifter valley looks pretty good might just paint it that color
 
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