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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I accidentally trapped and shorted a wire that runs from the main post on the starter where the pos. from battery connects, and runs to a relay located on the radiator support. I fixed the wire and replaced the alternator since it was 18 years old. The starter works fine with the wire removed by jumping the terminals. But when i hook the wire back up and touch the cable end to the battery it still arcs. If I cant get this figured out will be towing it to a local shop. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I kow this is not alot to go on, so my apologies.
 

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I accidentally trapped and shorted a wire that runs from the main post on the starter where the pos. from battery connects, and runs to a relay located on the radiator support. I fixed the wire and replaced the alternator since it was 18 years old. The starter works fine with the wire removed by jumping the terminals. But when i hook the wire back up and touch the cable end to the battery it still arcs. If I cant get this figured out will be towing it to a local shop. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I know this is not alot to go on, so my apologies.
"I fixed the wire and replaced the alternator since it was 18 years old"

I think the alternator replacement may be the issue. To verify, with the battery disconnected, disconnect the wire on the output post of the alternator and position it so it is not touching anything and then unplug the two wire connector on it. Now try reconnecting the battery and see if you have any arcing.

If you can expand on things like is the alternator the original style from 1963 or have thing been upgraded to a ??????.

I'm not for sure what was or was not in place originally but you may want to add some type of fusible link or fusing to protect the wiring in the car.

Until you get things right and protected properly, keep the battery disconnected.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thank you Jim, I have a 350 in this, and replaced the alternator with an identical replacement, since it was upgraded prior to me buying this car. Was wondering if the relay may be the problem, and how can I test it. There is a voltage regulator still mounted in the same area, but no wires connected it to it. Also, where would you put the fuseable link at? Sorry for so many questions but electrical is one of my weakest areas. Thank you kindly.
 

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Where is the wire that comes off the relay going? Don't think you should have a wire coming off hot lead at battery going to a relay. The fuseable link should be in the ignition wire going to and from key switch and starter. Start with the instructions that Jim gave you. Disconnect the battery and all the wires from starter, connect battery back and see which ones are hot.
 

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Thank you Jim, I have a 350 in this, and replaced the alternator with an identical replacement, since it was upgraded prior to me buying this car. Was wondering if the relay may be the problem, and how can I test it. There is a voltage regulator still mounted in the same area, but no wires connected it to it. Also, where would you put the fuse able link at? Sorry for so many questions but electrical is one of my weakest areas. Thank you kindly.
I wonder if someone replaced the alternator with an internally regulated model and then might not have it wired properly ?.

The relay you are asking about, is it an aftermarket one or possibly an original horn relay ?.

On your wiring off of the battery, you may have a smaller gauge wire (around a 10 gauge) that then goes to the alternator and possibly the horn relay and on this wire, at the battery, one could install a fusible link wire. On my 68, I bought reproduction battery cables and on it, there is a 14 gauge fusible link wire off of the battery post terminal that connects to a junction block behind the passenger headlight on the backside of the radiator support and then a 10 gauge wire attaches to this same junction block and goes over to the output post of the alternator, branches out with a leg to the external voltage regulator, and then branches again to the horn relay buss.

On another connection and a smaller wire on the horn relay buss is another fusible link wire but is smaller as it is protecting a 12 gauge wire that goes to and through the bulkhead connector and then to the fuse block and such.

While I do not know if the wiring diagrams I have are 100% accurate, it seems like the 63 had hardly any wiring protection.

1963 Main Wiring:



It looks like in 67 and newer that they added fusible links to the underhood wiring:



Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Checked all the under dash fuses and showing no issues there. Replaced the relay appeared to be original to the car with an identical one, there was a wire that was tied to the positive cable going to the starter, and that one was the one i shorted out, that we traced up to the relay, and replaced it. After struggling all day with this I got to the point where i disconnected the wire that runs from the relay down to the large screw on the back bottom screw on the alternator, touched the neg, cable to the battery with no arcing. was able to start the car, but generator light stays on. I appreciate all the time you guys are taking to help me with this. Thank you fellas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also wondering why the old voltage regulator was not being used, is it due to the way new alternators are designed?
 

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Checked all the under dash fuses and showing no issues there. Replaced the relay appeared to be original to the car with an identical one, there was a wire that was tied to the positive cable going to the starter, and that one was the one i shorted out, that we traced up to the relay, and replaced it. After struggling all day with this I got to the point where i disconnected the wire that runs from the relay down to the large screw on the back bottom screw on the alternator, touched the neg, cable to the battery with no arcing. was able to start the car, but generator light stays on. I appreciate all the time you guys are taking to help me with this. Thank you fellas.
With a short or electrical draw, the only issue that might be seen is if a particular fuse is removed and the voltage draw goes away. Not all circuit wiring on the older cars are protected by fuses under the dash in the fuse block.

Does this look like the relay you replaced ?.



It might help too if you can proved some good clear pictures of things.

Jim
 

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Also wondering why the old voltage regulator was not being used, is it due to the way new alternators are designed?
The new alternator may have an internal voltage regulator built into it and they abandoned the original one.

There are many ways to do things and who knows what was done so maybe until things get corrected is to disconnect the battery when the car is sitting unused.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finally got it figured out, and feel like a total idiot. The old alternator had a large stud for the hot wire to go on and the the new alternator hot was towards the top with a smaller stud, so I was hook the hot wire on the other stud without looking closer, once i changed the wires around i was hooked up correctly. Thank you guys a bunch for the help, and still learning not to assume.
 
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