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Discussion Starter #1
What does everyone use for an electric fuel pump cutoff incase of an accident? I've got my motor out and will be putting it back in soon and was wondering what others use for this. I did see where some old school car owners were using something out of modern cars where in a hard hit or roll over a switch trips and will cut power to the fuel pump. Any opinions on one of these devices?

Thanks guys!
 

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I did it this way

Electric Fuel Pump: How to do it right

The above site shows how to wire in a Standard oil pressure switch so that it will cut off power to the fuel pump if power is lost, as in a collision.
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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Electric Fuel Pump: How to do it right

The above site shows how to wire in a Standard oil pressure switch so that it will cut off power to the fuel pump if power is lost, as in a collision.
msaul ......

doesn't work for me ...... may need to re-link .... the LINK ..

just FYI ....... jim
 

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Look into the Ford inertia switches that they used on the mid 80's cars for the electric fuel pumps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Look into the Ford inertia switches that they used on the mid 80's cars for the electric fuel pumps.
I have read where some people were using those but I wasn't sure how well they worked for an old school vehicle/electric fuel pump situation vs what was mentioned above.
 

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Thanks for the link. I'd really like to get this done before putting the engine back in. Where is a good place to put the oil pressure switch? I've got a SBC 383 motor.
If you decide to go this route, instead of the Ford inertia switch, look for the threaded plug near the oil filter pad. If your block doesn't have one, you could add a "T" for an additional port to install the pressure switch behind the intake.

I haven't tried it, but I'm wondering if you could also just tie in to the wiring for the oil warning light.

Gerry
 

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I haven't tried it, but I'm wondering if you could also just tie in to the wiring for the oil warning light.
Gerry
The switch for the warning light is the wrong sense for this application. You want a switch that is open when pressure is lost. I used a switch from an old Chevy truck for mine. I have carburetors so I don't need the pump running to start the car, but if you have injection you will need the pump, so that's why the unit with the form C contacts is used to power the pump with the 'start' wire.
 

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Assistance

Thank-you Mr. Goble for the address improvement.
I double checked the address, and there it was, "Electric Fuel Pump: How to do it right",
just down the page, but not quite the center of the target.
 

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Thanks guys ..... I'll keep this post.

If my '250 ever dies' .... then, I will get my "292 -Big Six" installed .....
and, I'll have to go 'Electric - Fuel - pump' at that point .....

thanks again ... SNS
 

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Electric Fuel Pump: How to do it right

The above site shows how to wire in a Standard oil pressure switch so that it will cut off power to the fuel pump if power is lost, as in a collision.
I've been in body shops all my life, vehicles usually don't lose power in a collision, also if you've already lost power what is there to cut off?
 

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One reason I use an oil pressure switch is to keep the pump from starting until the oil pressure is above 10#, and to assure it is cut off if the engine stops and the oil pressure drops. If I want to turn the ignition on to rotate the engine or check lights I don't want the pump running.
I don't worry much about cutting it off in an accident, the engine will stall pretty quick due to the adverse conditions. If I'm upside down the engine will stall anyways, and if I'm right side up it will probably still be in gear and stalled.
 

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The switch for the warning light is the wrong sense for this application. You want a switch that is open when pressure is lost. I used a switch from an old Chevy truck for mine. I have carburetors so I don't need the pump running to start the car, but if you have injection you will need the pump, so that's why the unit with the form C contacts is used to power the pump with the 'start' wire.
Thanks for the clear explanation, Mike. You're always right on point.

Gerry
 
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