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Looking for any do's and dont's for setting up the cooling control for an electric fan. I had a mechanical fan and decided to put in a electric. Wired it to a switch and for one its draining my battery and I don't like the high percentage of user error with the switch.

Was thinking this
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/943351/10002/-1

Didn't know if anyone had any suggestions or tips.
Thanks
-a newbie trying to learn
 

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temp switch

I would ensure the device is capable of handling the amperage of the fan you plan to use. If it is, it should work OK. You probably want the 12V supply to be a switched source (no power when switch is off) otherwise the fan will continue to run after you turn the engine off until the temperature goes below the setpoint.

Mike
 

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I've got the Spal soft start fan controller. The latest edition. When you set the temp to start cooling it ramps up to 1/2 speed then if thats not enough it ramps up more and so on till 100%.

Definitely worth the $165.00. It even works off your existing guage sending unit.

Heres the link:

http://www.jaycorptech.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=155&categoryid=19

BTW it running a MK 4 /taurus fan with no problems.
 

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Need a relay switch

The switch can be a micro switch current should not be a factor because you MUST use a relay. Do a search on how relay switches work its quite simple once youve done one.
I don't recall the manufacture but I got it from summit I use a thermal switch that threads into the water jacket right next to the water pump, works like a champ. They have two different on-off settings but is not adjustable around $25.
One question in wiring is do you switch it to your ignition or not. Mine is not so if the fan is on when I shut off the car it stays on for maybe up to five minutes until the temp cools down. This has not been a problem for me but you must keep a good battery. I also have an on-off switch in the rear of my car where I sometimes shut down the whole car to kill the fan.

I have two fans one for the trans one for the radiator both on thermal switches.

edit-
I would not add an over-ride switch you may forget about it - and that could be a very bad/costly mistake.

Chuck
 

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relay switch

Before my first reply, I looked at the wiring diagram for the jegs item you were thinking about buying. The little control box may have a relay in it, it was not clear to me since it did not say anything about grounding the box. Per the manufactuer, if the item is capable of handling the amperage of the fan you plan on using, it should be OK. If it is not, the jegs item can be used to control a relay (you will need to put a relay in the circuit where the instruction shows the fan) but it may be easier just to find a kit that will handle your fan amperage.
This kit from summit will handle 30 amps:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294924500+400304+4294860934+115&autoview=sku
There are others that have the capillary tube sensor for the radiator. Check out ebay, there are many options.
 

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do a search in the electrical section.. you will find diagrams, part, part numbers, and lots of good info....
 

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I just added a ls1 fan set-up on my 63. I ordered the dual fan relay kit from jeggs and works like a champ.
 

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I know the 1 I'm using is $$$...but when a lincoln mk/taurus fan starts with just a relay, it pounds the charging system with a 100 amp instantanious load :eek: then drops to the >40's.

With the spal that does not happen, :no: it ramps up speed as needed then ramps down then off.

Way better for the charging system/battery. :yes:
 

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Ces63ss, how wide is that lsi fan? The taurus fan covers the whole rad (stock width). The dual fan has to be wider then the 26" rad with a 19" core.

I'd rather use a GM fan then the fd one.. but it's prolly to wide for my rad.
 

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the Ls1 fans I want to say are 28". It covered the radiator completely. I have a stocker in mine. The only draw back was I had to cut a cut-out on the top drivers side were the return hose comes into the radiator. its about 1/4" away from the water pump pulley. I'm running a long style water pump, with a short style there should be plentty of room. Works great and for a fan I had in the garage laying around I couldnot beat the price.
 

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I know the 1 I'm using is $$$...but when a lincoln mk/taurus fan starts with just a relay, it pounds the charging system with a 100 amp instantanious load :eek: then drops to the >40's.

With the spal that does not happen, :no: it ramps up speed as needed then ramps down then off.

Way better for the charging system/battery. :yes:
These fans draw about 38 and 35 amps on high and around 17 and 15 on low. The Spal contoller isn't rated high enough for the Lincon/Taurus fan. It doesn't make sense to use a soft start system to trigger a relay.

I use the Dakota Digital controller that works of the Autometer (or other gauge) sending unit and turns on relays.
 

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These fans draw about 38 and 35 amps on high and around 17 and 15 on low. The Spal contoller isn't rated high enough for the Lincon/Taurus fan. It doesn't make sense to use a soft start system to trigger a relay.

I use the Dakota Digital controller that works of the Autometer (or other gauge) sending unit and turns on relays.
I drove my car yesterday in 90 deg heat in traffic never got above 180. The guy I bought the controller from does R&D for spal and I asked him the same question and he said it could handle it no problem.

I even went as far as to let it heat up to 205 deg to make go to hi immediately and and run long enough to blow the 30 fuse.

It didn't blow the fuse and the controller itself was cool, (it has heat fins)so it's not even laboring.

It's not contolling the relay, It's controlling the fan.
 

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I used the Summit kit, a little pricey ( $60 I think ) but it comes with a wire harness, relay, fuse, and thermal switch.

Wiring is real easy. Just wire the relay hot thru the fuse to the terminal junction. then run it to the hot on the fan, and ground the other leg. ( be sure you get the rotation correct for your placement choice infront/behind of the radiator ). Then, run a switched hot to the coil on the relay. Run the ground side of relay coil thru the thermal switch to ground.

then faggheddaboudit. It will run automatically, only when it's needed.
 

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I drove my car yesterday in 90 deg heat in traffic never got above 180. The guy I bought the controller from does R&D for spal and I asked him the same question and he said it could handle it no problem.

I even went as far as to let it heat up to 205 deg to make go to hi immediately and and run long enough to blow the 30 fuse.

It didn't blow the fuse and the controller itself was cool, (it has heat fins)so it's not even laboring.

It's not contolling the relay, It's controlling the fan.
Where is the relay? Variable speed softstart systems have to control the current going to the fan. It isn't a good idea to exceed the rated capacity of an electronic circuit. The excessive thermal cycles will cause it to self destruct.

If you didn't blow a 30 amp fuse, you didn't exceed 30 amps long enough to heat up the circuit.
 

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I know the 1 I'm using is $$$...but when a lincoln mk/taurus fan starts with just a relay, it pounds the charging system with a 100 amp instantanious load :eek: then drops to the >40's.

With the spal that does not happen, :no: it ramps up speed as needed then ramps down then off.

Way better for the charging system/battery. :yes:
Not sure what you mean by "pounds the charging system." The battery acts as a buffer/resevoir for the electrical system. Surge loads don't have much impact on the altenator because the battery provides the momentary surge amperage needed to get the fan started.
 
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