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I found a guy renting the Eastwood fender roller on Craigslist. I picked it up, hoping to get some more clearance for the rear meats :eek: :



I bolted the bad boy up, torquing it to spec...



Then fiddled around with the adjustments... but to no avail. The roller's arm is too dang long, and on the shorter setting, you can't get the Delrin roller at the correct angle. You'd need to fab up something different to get it to work. And YES, this is with the rear at full drop!! Wrong:



Right (but no place to pin down the arm):




Just thought I'd let you know before you blow your hard earned money on renting (or buying) this tool for your 3rd gen. :(

Guess I gotta go with the old-school method of a dead blow hammer and a shot bag...
 

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I bought one a few years ago and it didn't work on my Mustang I had at the time. From what I can remember it really only worked on front fenders because it didn't have the inner fender like the rear. Basically it was too thick to roll.
 

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Hammer and dolly work should fix the issues. The other fancy tools that only look good, but dont preform are a waste of time. Keep it simple for a simple job. Thanks for the heads up. JR
 

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Can't really tell from the pics, but, are you using jack stands? If so are they on the axle? If so, try to support the body and let the suspension hang a little. If already tried that, It was a shot.:confused:
I believe there is a tool to put a juggle into sheet metal so you can make a lap joint whe n replacing rust/rot. Something like that may start the bend for you. Once the bend is started, the roller might work.
I guess you already rented the thing, so trying anything that doesn't hurt the fender is worth a try........
 

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You can relocate the adjuster location making the arm shorter, you will have to expand the roller arm out at this location.

FYI
Al

 

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I have used a baseball bat on several cars, whats nice is you can slowley open it up as you go. Just leave the tire on and roll the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Can't really tell from the pics, but, are you using jack stands? If so are they on the axle? If so, try to support the body and let the suspension hang a little. If already tried that, It was a shot.:confused:
Pic is misleading. I had the jack/jackstand under the body, not the axle. And I removed the shocks, so everything was at full drop. No way to get it any lower other than removing the whole axle. :(

You can relocate the adjuster location making the arm shorter, you will have to expand the roller arm out at this location.
I tried this... no workie. :mad: Oh well. Just wanted people to know not to waste their time, because the tool is not designed to work with this type of "eyelid" type wheel well... only full radius round wheel wells.

I would drop my tire size, JMO though...
Now what is the point in that?? :confused: If I wanted drum brakes and 14x5" steelies, I would go back to the stone age. :rolleyes: Plus, its not the tires, its the backspacing on the wheels that is gumming up the works. Time for new wheels. Woo-hoo! :cool:

I'm going to use a body hammer and a shot bag. Sometimes the old school methods just work. :yes:
 

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If I ever get my lips rolled Im going to a guy who does them for everyone. He has 3 sizes of bats that he uses and they always come out good but he has done a few.
 

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Guard Rolling

I do guard rolling as part of my business, so I've done quite a few. Here are a couple of suggestions that have worked for me in the past.

Disconnect lower shock mount and temporarily bolt on a shackle plate from a leaf spring to lengthen shock travel. That normally gives enough length to get the tool under the guard.

My tool is drilled with a second set of holes(not an option on a rental) but some times this fouls a wheel stud that needs to be knocked out.

Either method gives good results. Rear guards with double thickness are hard work but can be done with effort, just let the tool do its job.

Hope this helps,

Neale:australia:
 
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