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Discussion Starter #1
Im about to place my battery in my drunk instead of in the front, Where have you guys taken your earth point from in the trunk?
 

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Hi and welcome to Sweden!

maybe you’ll find your question here
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You have to think things through (and who knows what you actually have with the limited info you have provided) is let's say you ground to the trunk latch bolt or trunk floor, or whatever metal in the trunk. The ground then has to get from that point to the engine block that has the starter and alternator on it. The ground gets to the front but since a factory setup has the motor and transmission on rubber isolated electrically mounts, electrical path cannot go that way so it then wants to find another path such as through the shifter linkage, emergency brake cables, and possibly another way or to but it is not the best.

Ideally run a dedicated power and ground to the engine AND have them both the same size AND be large enough to support the load of the starter as well as the alternator.

Some will ground in the trunk and then up front run a cable from the firewall to the engine block and not have issues while others have had issues.

Also too protect any wiring from the source of power with the proper sized fuse,fusible link,or circuit breaker.

Also do a site search for a lot more info and opinions.

Jim
 

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Yep, I agree and my Nova is done like this^^^^.
Originally I grounded the rear mount battery to the side of the trunk latch....9 months later had slow crank and hot start problems.
Ran a second grond cable same size as positive cable up to the block, bellhousing bolt right near the starter....problem solved.

Everybody seems to overlook the fact electricity needs a complete loop from battery positve, through whatever component, and then all the way back to the battery negative. Every part of the loop must be capable of carrying the full amont of the electrical load.....if it can't, it becomes a point of resistance. Ground wire is of equal importance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay, I hear what you're saying, as if it's a problem to ground it to the trunk.



How to run a ground cable to the front chassis from the luggage compartment in the same size as the plus cable, when the chassis is grounded to the block would it work just as well or should I ground directly to the block? Better to be safe. Then make a battery killer on the go for the plus cable when not in use?



Thanks for a great description Jim and Eric!
 

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Okay, I hear what you're saying, as if it's a problem to ground it to the trunk.



How to run a ground cable to the front chassis from the luggage compartment in the same size as the plus cable, when the chassis is grounded to the block would it work just as well or should I ground directly to the block? Better to be safe. Then make a battery killer on the go for the plus cable when not in use?



Thanks for a great description Jim and Eric!
Keep in mind, if you run a dedicated ground for the starter/alternator between the battery and the block, you still need to run a ground from the battery negative to the body of the car or from the engine to the body of the car so that things grounded to the car body get a ground.

On an old design on my 73 Custom,I ran a ground made out of welding cable and it went between the trunk battery negative and a tailshaft bolt. On a newer design, I ran the ground from the battery to the alternator case. On both setups I still had an additional ground from the battery to the body of the car and then going off the deep end I ran dedicated grounds from things like the headlights and grill parking lights as I was worried about the original ground being on the radiator support and with heavy applications of paint and clears that the bolted together assembly of the radiator support to the fenders and then the fenders to the firewall would not be good electrically.Mechanically things would be good but mechanically tight does not always mean electrically sound.

As far as a "battery killer", I would put in either an ANL style fuse and holder or one of the newer style marine cube fuses. Battery Killer switches normally only cut power if turned off and that's fine but a properly placed and sized fuse will cut power all by itself if a short occurs.





Another thing is be aware there is copper wire out there as well as copper clad aluminum wire.While the CCA is cheaper, a 1/0 sized CCA wire has less ampacity than a 1/0 copper wire.

Just to touch on this also to be safe, put the battery in a vented battery enclosure that vents to the exterior of the vehicle.Do not be mislead that batteries like some models of the optima's do not vent, The can and will and you just want things to be safe.





I like how they cover their backside stating "nearly" all gases are recycled under "normal" operating conditions and while I would like to think all alternators would not overcharge or have normal operating conditions,not always does that happen.



Jim
 
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