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looking for some advice… i'll be doing this by myself and, well…i've never done an engine swap before. i'll be putting in a brand new 350 that i put together this month into my 73, and removing the straight 6.

so, as far as the points to HEI swap, what wires should i keep? what do i do with some of the old wiring that wont be used(ie, the idle solenoid that went to my one barrel rochester)?

i'll take some pics along the way.

im sure i'll have more questions too…

oh, and someone recommend me a good oil for breaking in the engine!!

:D:D:D:D
 

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1.) Call a buddy up when lowering the engine into your car if you can. I dropped my engine in the car myself but it was a pain. No one was available at the time and I got tired of waiting around, wanted to drive my car, haha!

2.) Bypass or remove the resistor wire that used to go to your points distributor. It cuts down the power to your distributor for points so they dont get fried. With HEI you can handle full power, so you dont want to use that wire anymore.

3.) If using an HEI distributor for the first time, you may need to pound in the firewall a little to make clearance for that bigger cap on the HEI. Either it will be a very tight fit, or wont fit at all if you dont modify the firewall a little.

4.) Clean up the engine bay before dropping the engine in. Only takes a few hours and it will look much nicer when you're all done with the engine and ready to drive it. Engine degreaser and some wire brushes will get rid of the grease and grime. Black rustoleum paint will look nice on your framerails, control arms, firewall, etc.

Take some pics so we can see how things are going. I always enjoyed dropping the engine back in the car and getting it ready to go back on the road. Good luck!
 

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Take the time to make sure the engine is nice and level hanging off your engine crane.. otherwise you'll have a BITCH of a time getting it in.

I've done it by myself a few times but having a friend to help you is highly recommended! Make sure to take off the hood, don't bother doing it with it on.

Don't be afraid to get out the hammer and massage the firewall to fit the HEI and headers on the driver's side. Just make SURE to spray rubberized coating on there after you bang it.

When the engine is out clean/paint the engine bay! You may just want to get it running but down the road you'll wish you had! I sure as hell do and suffered for it later when it took me a whole day to mask everything off to paint it.

If you have trouble getting it to fire at first advance the timing a little. Usually a motor won't fire at zero degrees and that's often where you'll set it when you build it.

Set the headers in first if possible and drop the engine over them. The passenger's side header is really easy to get in, but the driver's side will be a TOTAL BITCH otherwise. That thing is the bane of my existence!! Not as hard as doing long tubes on my old '97 Z28 but hard enough. You may need to clearance the headers for the steering column.

For breaking in your engine it'll depend on if you're running a flat tappet or a roller cam. If you're running flat tappet I'd recommend a good 5W 30 with a cam break in additive. It's extremely important that you run a high zddp additive when breaking in your flat tappet cam. Follow the cam manufacturer's instructions to the LETTER for break in!

If you're running a roller you're a lot better off. Just add a high quality 5w 30, run for 30 minutes, change oil, run for 250 miles, change oil, run for 1000 change oil. That's what I've always done and it works fine.

That's just some advice off the top of my head for ya. Go slow, label everything. Just keep your eye on the prize and you'll get it done! Feel free to PM me if you have questions.
 
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