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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All!

Haven't posted anything in a while, and I'm sad that this is my first topic.

76SS, 350, 4-spd. Didn't really drive it all last year, due to an issue with insurance, and gas prices here in Ontario... couldn't afford to insure, and fill it.

So I've decided to get back to work on it, and she WILL NOT fire up for me. Started out having issues in the cold, would turn, but not fire. Left it for a bit.

Spring time, started turning over, but bendex stuck out, and engine continued to turn over (albeit very VERY slowly) even with the ignition turned off. Let the clutch out, and its slowying trying to turn over still, and move the car, with the ignition right off and key out.

Tried boosting it yesterday, same thing, it start to turn over, and fast, poured some gas in the carb, and almost got a quick fire, but when it didn't, turned the key off, pulled it out, and let the clutch out, and the car is still trying to turn over.

My pops pulled the starter out before, and checked everything, and put it all back in, but I'm wondering if maybe the solonoid is sticking open and not closing the circuit when I turn the key off, or do I have a possible "mouse ate a wire" problem :( :( :(


Thanks as always guys!!!!! I'd love to get it back on the road this year!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also to note :)

That when boosting it, after an extended session of attempting to jump it... the booster cables began smoking, and melting, under what appeared to be some extreme heat coming back through??
 

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I am NOT an expert by any means. So here goes my last experience summary's.

Try ALL grounds. If you can't see the wires to notice corrosion, peel back some insulation and look anyways. I had this issue a few times.

Starter keeping on? Man, that's new to me, I'd say try the wires on the starter itself and make sure that either, torquing from the motor isn't making 2 wires touch. I've had that issue on a 81 Chevy 4x4. I'd go to crank it and it would make 2 wires touch and act funky for a bit.

Also may want to check battery charge. I've recently found a low charge on batteries can make funky things happen.

Last and not least, only because I noticed it on my 74 Nova. Try looking under the dash if you haven't yet. Make sure those wires aren't fubared! Mine did this right before I pulled the small block out a month or so ago. Went to start it to move under the tree (SHADE!!!) and it acted like it'd start then smoke at battery etc. I looked under the dash out of last resort, and the wires had melted together!!! Now I can't tell you for a FACT, but it looks like it's done it before. there's a group of melted wires, and fresh electrical tape surrounding them.... that's NOT melted with them.

Hope someone else can get on here adn throw idears out.. I'm hot and can't think of anything good.

:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ta-Da!

I don't even know how to explain it. We tried buying a new starter/solonoid for it, only to find out that What NAPA says will fit my car, doesn't. In both Automatic and Manual configs, the starter for what they say is a "76 Nova 350" Does not mate properly with my flywheel/bell housing. So we took the solonoid off the new one, put it on the old starter. BRand new Battery.

Tried firing, and it would turn and turn and turn... looking down I see no gas on the guage. So we dumped some gas in, and it fired, and stopped trying to start itself. Before putting gas in, we could take the key right out, and it would keep turning until the battery disconnected. When we hooked the batt back up, it wouldn't try and start (different from last time), but when I turned the key it would turn and turn again. Gas solved it.... apparently someone beat me for about 1/2 a tank of gas while it was parked... but the engine firing must've been enough force to break the circuit? Starts like a dream now, put more gas in... and I'll be back to driving it this year, with my new appraisal :)

Thanks to all for your help... My eyes are starting to light up about driving it again :)
 

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It sounds like the pinion gear on the starter was just stuck in the flexplate/flywheel and could not mechanically return to its parked position. This will cause contact between the battery post and the field post on the starter through the solenoid and make the starter motor spin. But this does not explain why the engine continued to crank with the ignition off. Once power is removed from the "start" post on the solenoid the internal spring will pull back the bendix and open the cranking circuit in the solenoid. If you changed the starter you may have fixed the actual problem and just didn’t know it. You probably didn't even need a new starter.

A pretty common cause for this (I have fixed more than a few) is when the factory positive battery cable has been replaced. The factory terminal has a lug built in to keep the terminal from spinning on the stud. That is why the prestolite end of the solenoid has a little notch at the 12 O’clock position. The aftermarket cables don’t have the lug built in. When you tighten the aftermarket battery cable you turn it clockwise and the terminal can spin far enough to the right (clockwise) to contact the small start terminal on the solenoid. This will make the engine crank as soon as the battery cable is reconnected to the battery. Just like if you would “jump it” with a screwdriver across the post from under the car! Check your clearance between the battery cable and the start wire on the solenoid.

As mentioned above, heat is resistance and resistance caused heat and that normally comes from poor grounding. Your negative battery cable should connect to the engine block with another coupled to it going to the frame. An additional lead (at least 10ga.) should go from the engine (typically from the rear of the right cylinder head) to the body. Attach another 10 ga from the battery to the core support as the headlights draw quite a few amps. You can never have too many ground paths.

Good luck!

Steve
 

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Hi All!

Haven't posted anything in a while, and I'm sad that this is my first topic.

76SS, 350, 4-spd. Didn't really drive it all last year, due to an issue with insurance, and gas prices here in Ontario... couldn't afford to insure, and fill it.

So I've decided to get back to work on it, and she WILL NOT fire up for me. Started out having issues in the cold, would turn, but not fire. Left it for a bit.

Spring time, started turning over, but bendex stuck out, and engine continued to turn over (albeit very VERY slowly) even with the ignition turned off. Let the clutch out, and its slowying trying to turn over still, and move the car, with the ignition right off and key out.

Tried boosting it yesterday, same thing, it start to turn over, and fast, poured some gas in the carb, and almost got a quick fire, but when it didn't, turned the key off, pulled it out, and let the clutch out, and the car is still trying to turn over.

My pops pulled the starter out before, and checked everything, and put it all back in, but I'm wondering if maybe the solonoid is sticking open and not closing the circuit when I turn the key off, or do I have a possible "mouse ate a wire" problem :( :( :(


Thanks as always guys!!!!! I'd love to get it back on the road this year!
your bendix is stuck in the flywheel ,loosen the starter bolts and the bendix will pop back in the starter,this is often cause by a weak starter,bad battery ,or cable connections,possible you will have to install a fresh battery,new starter,and cables to correct the problem:rolleyes:
 
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