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ok i seen somewhere that the driver side floor needs to be 18 ga. steel or would My ga.aluminum be ok.
if it needs to be steel doing that with the aluminum over top be fine i also have access to my master cyl. in front of the Seat with a cover is this ok:confused:
this is a Alston's chassis and i was going to do all aluminum in side.
also i have my rocker tubes going to the bottom of my out rigger not the side bars as they go to the top of the out rigger will this be a problem to get it certified.
if it will what has to be done?
 

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it must be steel, you can put whatever ya want over it but it has to be steel under the driver, really need pics of the rocker bar to understand what you have
 

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ok i seen somewhere that the driver side floor needs to be 18 ga. steel or would My ga.aluminum be ok.
if it needs to be steel doing that with the aluminum over top be fine i also have access to my master cyl. in front of the Seat with a cover is this ok:confused:
this is a Alston's chassis and i was going to do all aluminum in side.
also i have my rocker tubes going to the bottom of my out rigger not the side bars as they go to the top of the out rigger will this be a problem to get it certified.
if it will what has to be done?
You just can't use magnesium. The seat mount has to be properly built and braced, but the actual floor panels can be aluminum, steel or carbon fiber. I usually use 0.040 aluminum for the floor in a full chassis car, but I think a lot of the kits offer 0.050 sheet aluminum floor kits.
 

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The rules require .024 steel or .032 aluminium in cars with a 8.50 plus chassis but a 7.50 plus MS has to have a .024 steel welded in floor on the DS. Since I don't build chassis for P/S or any max effort classes, like Vin63 I usually use a little thicker material for longer life.
 

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ok so my .059 alum. will be fine.
what about my rocker tubes will they work with being on the bottom of my out rigger to the body with the cage sides ending at the top.
I would highly recommend you get to know your Div. 3 tech and chassis inspectors. Particularly talk with the chassis inspector about your build. It will be cheaper in the long run to pay for him to come out to your shop and go over your questions before you build further, than to have to cut out stuff and start over after the fact. Here's a link to the Division 3 chassis inspector page: http://www.nhradiv3.com/apcm/templates/divtech.asp?articleid=4219&zoneid=22
 
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