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Discussion Starter #1
I need to get new stock latches.

I've been having "issues" with the solenoids from my shaved door handle kit can't pull the latches far enough.

Who sells these latches (cheapest)?

-Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the contact Seattle Mike.

I am 99% sure I need to replace the latch.

When I hook the solenoid up to the point where it will release the latch, there is too much tension on the cable and the solenoid (50 lb!) cant pull it.

If I ease it up a little bit, it seems like there isnt enough travel in the solenoid to pull the latch accurately every time. It only releases 30% of the time.

The passenger side pulls the door open every time.

On a side note, how hard are bear claws to put in? Can you use your original striker post?

-Phil
 

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Shaved door handles can be nice or a nightmare.

On your door that doesn't open all the time, how is it if you gently use the inside door handle to try and open it ?. Does the back edge of the door drop at all from a worn bushing or latch pin alignment problem ?. It should pop open with the inside handle and not require pressure outward to open it up off of the weather stripping.

If it does open nice then is the wiring the same and the solenoid not grounded inside the door. The one door that does not work all the time may be experiencing a voltage drop to the solenoid.

Some solenoids also require some slack in the cable to where they give a tug and not an even pull.

How far away from the pivot point on the trip lever are you attach to ?. Moving further away requires more solenoid travel but less pull. Closer requires less soenoid travel but increased pressure.

Is the solenoid attached to welded brackets off of the latch ?. Sometimes having the latch and solenoid mounted seperately will have the solenoid bend on it's mounting surface decreasing how well they perform.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well we had them working in the car about 4 months ago, even then though, I'd have to hit the button 2 or 3 times to get them to unhook off the pin.

Hinges are fine, no door drop or pushing needed... Voltage is fine because when I loosen the cable a little those 50lb solenoids slam really strong.

Here is our setup...



We made some brackets out of 1/8" steel & welded some heavy duty pulley wheels on them to mount the solenoids vertically. We greased them up and then bolted them to the inside panel of the door using 1/4-20 pan head bolts & lockwashers so that the cable is about 3 inches from the latch.

What seems to happen is that the driver's side seems to need a longer throw than the passenger (which works a lot better). "When I pull it manually," :p I get to where the door should unlatch, and it needs a little bit more tug. I think the door latch is gummed up / fubar because not matter how tight or loose the cable is, it cant activate the latch.

Eventually I'll pull my door panels off to look at it again to problem solve.

-Phil
 
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