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My distributer is hitting the fire wall when I try to advance it. I have already done the BFH mod twice. Is there a way to pull it and set it back in where I would be able to make my adjustments before it contacts the firewall? View attachment 404495
This is what I used. Very happy with it. Had it about 2 years Amazon.com: U.S Ignition System Ignition Distributor Replacement For SBC BBC Small & Big Block Chevy Chevrolet 305 327 350 454 Small Base Cap HEI 1135011: Automotive
 

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My distributer is hitting the fire wall when I try to advance it. I have already done the BFH mod twice. Is there a way to pull it and set it back in where I would be able to make my adjustments before it contacts the firewall? View attachment 404495

Pull the distributor up and turn the rotor one tooth clockwise. Should be right where you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This is what I used. Very happy with it. Had it about 2 years Amazon.com: U.S Ignition System Ignition Distributor Replacement For SBC BBC Small & Big Block Chevy Chevrolet 305 327 350 454 Small Base Cap HEI 1135011: Automotive

I was looking into a smaller replacement, but I'm hoping to make that my plan B. That's a pretty good price though.
Pull the distributor up and turn the rotor one tooth clockwise. Should be right where you need it.
That's what I was looking for. So when I drop it back in I do the wires stay as they are now or do they need to be moved?
 

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That's what I was looking for. So when I drop it back in I do the wires stay as they are now or do they need to be moved?
Do as 66II stated, then rotate the distributor body in the same direction to catch the terminal in the cap back up with the contact tip of the rotor. No need to move wires around. This will give you greater adjustment range from where you are now.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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So when I drop it back in I do the wires stay as they are now or do they need to be moved?
The spark plug wires will stay where they are on the cap.

It is not necessary... but I like to get the engine to about 10°-12° BTDC @ #1 firing position before I remove the distributor... as it makes it easier for me to get the initial timing set for the engine start (just rotate the distributor until the #1 cap terminal lines up with the rotor). Before removing the distributor, note the position of the rotor. As you remove the distributor, the rotor will rotate a little bit. Be sure to note the position of the rotor when it stops moving as you remove the distributor so you can reposition the rotor to the correct spot for re-installation. To make it easier to fully insert you distributor into the intake manifold, you can use a long flat blade screw driver to turn the slot in the oil pump shaft a slightly clockwise.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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This post has been edited/corrected. The changes have been bolded.
Credit for my correction goes to SMasterson (post #9).

I just remembered another method to achieve the same results without having to remove and reinstall the distributor. You just remove each spark plug wire on the cap terminal... and move the wire to the next terminal on the cap in a counterclockwise order (Example: 8 to 1, 1 to 2, 2 to 7,... and so on). The wires stay connected to the spark plugs as is.
Next, loosen the dizy hold-down clamp and rotate the distributor (with cap still installed) in a clockwise direction by the amount of of space between 2 cap terminals.
Start you engine and reset your initial timing. Tighten the distributor hold-down clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys. All great suggestions, I'll be tackling this again tomorrow. I'm hoping there's not enough timing since it's hitting the firewall and causing a rich condition. If I idle the car in the garage for 5 - 10 mins my eyes will be burning from the fumes. I've already cleaned and rebuilt my QF 680 carb, new plugs, etc etc. I've been fighting this since I got this crate engine. Hoping this will solve the rich condition and if not then one more thing to cross off the list.
 

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Can't he just move all eight wires counterclockwise one notch and then the connector would be facing more toward the 3 O'clock position? Seems like that should work???
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Can't he just move all eight wires counterclockwise one notch and then the connector would be facing more toward the 3 O'clock position? Seems like that should work???
SMasterson, You are correct!
I had previously stated moving the wires in a clockwise direction in post #7... but the clockwise direction is wrong.
I am going to edit post #7 with the correct "counterclockwise" direction so I do not confuse anyone.
Thanks for pointing this out!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well worked on this today and I was able to get the distruster dropped in with room to rotate it but now my oil pressure gauge shows no pressure for some reason. The valve train started making some clacking noises so I pulled the pass valve cover off and it seems like no oil is coming up or very little. Shouldn’t it squirt Quite a bit of oil without the valve cover being on. I’ll try to post a video. I wonder if the oil pump died for some reason. Any thoughts on this ?
Can we post a video directly or does it have to be hosted somewhere else? Trying to do this from my phone so not sure if I have all the options.
 

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ProjectX, your distributor housing is seated against the intake, right? If not, it’s like utterson said, your distributor is not engaging the oil pump driveshaft.
 

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Well I feel like an idiot. It didn't drop down on the intake like it's supposed to. You both are correct. I rotated the engine and I swear I saw it drop down when I did that. Man I feel relived. Hopefully it didn't do any damage although I didn't run it much once I realized something wasn't right.
 

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My distributer is hitting the fire wall when I try to advance it. I have already done the BFH mod twice. Is there a way to pull it and set it back in where I would be able to make my adjustments before it contacts the firewall? View attachment 404495
I had the same problem---my large cap HEI was allowing the #6 plug wire to chaff on the firewall. The BFH method wasn't enough clearance so here's what you do---look on Ebay or Summit Racing for a Small cap "Ready to Run" distributor. Remote coil setup is part of it---$ 75. You'll love it !
404595
 

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My distributer is hitting the fire wall when I try to advance it. I have already done the BFH mod twice. Is there a way to pull it and set it back in where I would be able to make my adjustments before it contacts the firewall? View attachment 404495
I have a 350 V8 in a '63 and my distributor was also hitting the firewall, especially on strong revs. Was throwing everything off. Took awhile to diagnose but banged out the firewall 1/2" and problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I had the same problem---my large cap HEI was allowing the #6 plug wire to chaff on the firewall. The BFH method wasn't enough clearance so here's what you do---look on Ebay or Summit Racing for a Small cap "Ready to Run" distributor. Remote coil setup is part of it---$ 75. You'll love it ! View attachment 404595
I've thought about going small cap and I may do that if it becomes a problem with hitting the firewall. Ive done the BFH mod so it does have a little room. I was a little nervous about those cheaper eBay distributers and reliability. I did get the oil issue fixed once I got the distributer seated all the way down and she still runs. I feel like I dodged a bullet with that one. Thanks everyone for the advice!
 
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