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Discussion Starter #1
Started working on the disc conversion for the 63 and ran into a problem...of course the CPP tech line was closed by the time I ran into the issue:mad: The passenger's side went together no problem. The driver's side, I got the caliper on, but the rotor will not turn at all...like there is no clearance...anybody have any suggestions? This is my first go at disc brakes, so it is a learning process. The kit I am using is the CPP stock spindle drum to disc conversion. Thanks in advance.
 

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Is the brake caliper piston depressed all the way?
 

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If you have a C clamp large enough you can use it. Just place it on the piston and screw the clamp in until it bottoms out. If you have your brake lines hooked up and filled with fluid, go slow.
 

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no. I don't have the lines hooked up yet...maybe it will be best to pull the caliper back off the car and take a closer look at it....I even put the wheel on and tried to spin it and it won't budge....
Had something similar happen. When I tighten the brake pad pins down all the way they would make it really hard to turn the rotor. Make sure the pads are seated right with the clip on the back in the piston.
 

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There are little copper washers that go on the banjo end of the flex hose. In my kit, the washers were shipped on one of the caliper bolts. If that's still on there, it could cause a misalignment. Longshot...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There are little copper washers that go on the banjo end of the flex hose. In my kit, the washers were shipped on one of the caliper bolts. If that's still on there, it could cause a misalignment. Longshot...
Yeah, I saw that on your write up (very nice by the way...thank you). But my washers were on the plastic plug that was stuck in the hole were the brake hose attaches. I picked up a pad spreader tool and will try to use that tomorrow to see if the piston is all the way in. It just seemed like it was in just as far as the other side....
 

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The pad spreader should open it up all the way - if thats the problem. Sometimes with these kits you never know how long they've been sitting on a shelf and they need a little love.
-DD
 

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Disc Brake conversion Help!!

Hey Now USMCNOVA, Does your Rotor turn freely on the spindle without the Caliper and pads installed? If not, check the Bolt Head clearance on the Spindle and the bolts that attach the steering arm. Be sure that your castle nut for bearing adjustment is not too tight. Also be sure that the dust shield and caliper mounting bracket are mounted squarely with the Rotor Spindle axis both horizontal and perpendicular. Also the Caliper must slide/move easy on mounting bracket and caliper mounting bolts. Respectfully,
"Bill's" II
 

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Had something similar happen. When I tighten the brake pad pins down all the way they would make it really hard to turn the rotor. Make sure the pads are seated right with the clip on the back in the piston.
Good advice. Dont know what the pistons look like on the CPP setup but on my rear discs the piston has five lil cutouts and the pad has some dimples. They have to line up. On one of mine the piston had turned slightly and the pad was not sitting flush to the piston as it should be. JR
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey Now USMCNOVA, Does your Rotor turn freely on the spindle without the Caliper and pads installed? If not, check the Bolt Head clearance on the Spindle and the bolts that attach the steering arm. Be sure that your castle nut for bearing adjustment is not too tight. Also be sure that the dust shield and caliper mounting bracket are mounted squarely with the Rotor Spindle axis both horizontal and perpendicular. Also the Caliper must slide/move easy on mounting bracket and caliper mounting bolts. Respectfully,
"Bill's" II
Yep, everything was good and turning freely untill I went to put the caliper on...just seemed like there wasn't enough space between the pads...guess I should have went and got the pad spreader, before I coaxed it on, now I hope I can get it back off....will try in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I used the pad spreader this morning, and the piston is all the way in, and I still do not have enough clearance...I would still have to use the BFH to get the caliper on the rotor. Could it be the pads are just a hair to thick and need some "adjustment"?
 

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A slight mis-alignment of the caliper bracket to the disc might make this happen. If the pads are designed to be tight on a new pad install and there is a cocking of the caliper then that will make it bind, at first. Until some friction material is removed with use. I would check the disc to bracket alignment if I was really concerned. But in reality I would just drive it to seat the pads and after 200 miles recheck the rotation by lifting the tire and rotate it by hand, will prolly turn freely. JR

Oh, and I just had to use the BFH, rubber mallet actually to get my rear calipers on. Just some light (yeah right) taps to get the cal in there. Just wanna make sure you dont chip the edge of the pad lining, line it up and get it past the leading edge of the pad then umm, wack away LOL Ok, so dont look if it looks bad :) A couple of good stops makes for some clearance.
 

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Disc Conversion Help?

Hey Now USMCNOVA. Check the Rotor Thickness; compare with the Rotor on the opposite side, Its possible the Rotor is on the maximum side of manufactures tolerance specs. Yes you can use a long board saner to remove a small amount of friction pad. But the best way to remove some froction material is to use 320 or so grit 8x11 paper on a flat surface. Take and place the pad down on sanding paper and make 3 or 4 full length passes the long way on the paper, and do this with each pad so you remove the same amount of material. Then Test Fit, If more is needed repeat above and test fit again. Respectfully, "Bill's" II
 

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How about swapping some parts around? You said the other side went on fine. Try that caliper and pad setup on the side you're having trouble with just as a sanity check (you can't leave it there because the bleeder needs to be on the top, but...it would indicate if there's a bracket-to-rotor alignment problem.) Maybe just swap pads?

Check if the rotors are the same thickness. If you don't have a dial caliper, you can use a crescent wrench to compare the two rotors. Is the rotor (and bearing) properly seated?

If the pads are not parallel to the rotor surface, yes...it will sorta 'wear in', but the bracket will flex when you apply the brakes until that happens, and the pedal will be soft. If there's a misalignment, you're better off correcting that than letting the wear take up the slack.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
How about swapping some parts around? You said the other side went on fine. Try that caliper and pad setup on the side you're having trouble with just as a sanity check (you can't leave it there because the bleeder needs to be on the top, but...it would indicate if there's a bracket-to-rotor alignment problem.) Maybe just swap pads?

Check if the rotors are the same thickness. If you don't have a dial caliper, you can use a crescent wrench to compare the two rotors. Is the rotor (and bearing) properly seated?

If the pads are not parallel to the rotor surface, yes...it will sorta 'wear in', but the bracket will flex when you apply the brakes until that happens, and the pedal will be soft. If there's a misalignment, you're better off correcting that than letting the wear take up the slack.
I tried the caliper and pads I am having problems with on the "good" side and it seems like there is not enough clearance between the pads to get it on the rotor on that side either (without the hamer). I don't think it is an alignment issue as I tried getting the caliper on all the way around the rotor outside the caliper bracket and it is just tight between the pads. Like I said, I can get it on, but it won't turn at. I will try switching the pads around tomorrow and I will try to ive CPP a call as well...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I talked to the tech at CPP this morning and they told me that sometimes the pads have a shim on the back side from the factory, and if so, I can remove those. I don't remember seeing that, but will look again tonight when I get home. If not, he said I can sand some of the material off the surface of the pads if they are too thick....
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
well, after looking closer at the pads there is a metal shim glued to the back of each one with tabs bent over the edges. I took one off and everything went on and no more issues there. Now I have to figure what all I need to take off the front of the engine to get the new line routed...
I thought the kit came with a new front to rear line, but it is a line that follows the stock front line across the core support and attaches to the existing front to rear line on the passenger's side. I am thinking I will have to take out the radiator at a minimum, and try to sqeeze the line past the hedders/inner fenderwells...
 

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On my '64 dual master / front disc upgrade, I ran my new 3/16 front to rear line in parallel with my 1/4 front line. Connected it below the existing passenger side junction to complete the circuit to the rear. No need to remove the radiator. Make sense?
 
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