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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just ordered a disc brake kit for the 63 from CPP. I went with the stock spindle, power disc kit (I have already done the 5 lug conversion using parts from a 64). CPP told me the kit, part number 6264CBKS, comes with everything I need to do the conversion except the brake fluid (to include the pre-bent lines to run the new Master cylinder. I can't wait to get rid of the single chamber MC! Anyone have any experience with this install, or any tips/tricks...it would be greatly appriciated. CPP's website seems to have a pretty good step by step "how to" with pictures. I will be picking the kit up on Saturday (saving some cash on shipping:D) on my way to Universal Studios and then the conversion will hopefully start on Sunday..... I will try to post pics of the conversion start to finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Patman did a nice write-up. It is posted at www.jollyrodder.com
Yep, seen that write-up a few times...great info. I was wondering if anybody had used the CPP stock spindle kit specificly, and if there were any issues they ran into, or tips on installing.... I had thought about putting the stock springs back in the front and getting the 2 inch drop spindles, but the ride isn't that bad, and I have the front just where I want it. Still want to put the rear back down to the stock height with the original shackles if I can find a pair.
 

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use blue locktite on the upper caliper mounting bolt,and a star washer if useing a drum brake spindle,dont forget the bronze spacer for the upper bolt,make sure the caliper sits true to the rotor,get rid of the made in chinna wheel bearings:yes:eek:verall its a good kit.just put that kit on john aka dadueces 63 hardtop it was a smooth install
don
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
use blue locktite on the upper caliper mounting bolt,and a star washer if useing a drum brake spindle,dont forget the bronze spacer for the upper bolt,make sure the caliper sits true to the rotor,get rid of the made in chinna wheel bearings:yes:eek:verall its a good kit.just put that kit on john aka dadueces 63 hardtop it was a smooth install
don
Thanks for the info, that just reminded me that I will have to pick up some bearing grease. Are the bearings that come in the kit no good? Also, did you have to do any bending, cutting, or mods to the brake lines? Thanks in advance.
 

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the caliper lines hook right into the stock junction block on the inner fenderwell,the only brake line mod. was at the master cyld.i/e went with a disk/drum master,put timken wheel bearings on to replace the ones that came in the kit,look out for leaks at the caliper brake hose location,one was leaking a little at the mounting area on the caliper location
don
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the caliper lines hook right into the stock junction block on the inner fenderwell,the only brake line mod. was at the master cyld.i/e went with a disk/drum master,put timken wheel bearings on to replace the ones that came in the kit,look out for leaks at the caliper brake hose location,one was leaking a little at the mounting area on the caliper location
don
I am currently still running the original single chamber master cylender, so I think I will be running line from the front to the rear, and the front passengerside junction block needs blocked off where it originally ran to the back of the car (to isolate the front from the rear). I too am going to the disc/drum setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Speed bleeders. Get 'em.

And make sure your flex hose connections are installed properly and leak-free.
Yeah, I just put some new ones on the rear. I will definitely pick some more up for the disc set up...they make bake bleeding so much easier.
 

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I had a mechanic friend convert my 4 lug drum fronts to a 5 lug disc setup.
The steering arms for a 4 lug were two short for the 5 lug setup. I had to order new steering arms.
Also, the tie rods didn't fit so I had to get new tie rods too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had a mechanic friend convert my 4 lug drum fronts to a 5 lug disc setup.
The steering arms for a 4 lug were two short for the 5 lug setup. I had to order new steering arms.
Also, the tie rods didn't fit so I had to get new tie rods too.
I am already working with a 5 lug set up...did that conversion a while back using parts from a 64, and a 67. So, hopefully I won't run into any of those problems. I think I still have another set of 5 lug front end parts from a 67 somewhere in my garage also....
 

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Be careful with the seals, I got the same kit and the seals they sent were too big where they seat around the spindles. CPP swapped them out no problem, but if you're making a special trip to pick-up the kit, I'd bring your old seals, bearings and even a spindle to make sure you're getting all the correct parts. Open all the boxes and check everything before you leave. I've run into wrong parts several times with CPP and have luckily caught it all but once before I left their showroom. They always take care of it, but it could be a real hassle if you get all the way home and have to make another trip or wait for it to be shipped.

Also, someone said to get Timken bearings to replace the made in China - be careful because most of Timken's stuff is made in China now. Just had this problem with my rear axle bearings, got Timken, put em in and they have more play than the old ones. I exchanged them for National bearings - Made in the good old USA!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I picked up the kit Saturday on my way to Universal Studios. As they were gettingeverything together, I asked about the offset, and they said the kit was different so they swapped out the rotors...hopefully they gave me the right ones, don't want my wheels pushed out any further! I went through everything in the kit before I left and added the speed bleeders and the manifold T fitting with the hose for the booster as well. I am hoping to start the conversion sometime this week....
 
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