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Discussion Starter #1
What are some differences between these cars? Im going to be looking at a 69 and i wanted to know what to look out for.
 

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1968 is a one year only as for some of the features. As for 69-72, the taillights are different. The 68/69 use the same housing. The 70-72 use the same housing but have different lenses. The front turn signals are different as far as shape goes. The 70 has a clear front turn signal, the others are amber. The side marker lights are different as far as shape and size between 69-72. The colors on the speedo numbers are different after early 69. The early numbers like the 68 are a green color and the later(mid 69 approx on) are white. Steering wheels are different. There might be a few other small things but those are the main ones. If you need some pictures to see the differences, let me know as I have a 69 and a 72.
 

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The 70 to 72 cars are the most simlar with small interior and emblem differences. The 68 is the most different of the bunch, different lights, different dash, different interior parts. And the 69 is somewhere in the middle, same lights as the 68 but the same dash as the 70-72. It would take me all day to point out all the differences in complete detail but these are the major ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pics would be awsome
Also where are some bad rust areas to look out for?
he said the counter panels have been done floors pans and trunk floor i think. Also said he has new front fenders, so are they different between the years?
O ya and the hoods and bumpers never changed did they?
He also has new interior so if thair are some 69 interior pics that would be great to.

Thanks for the info
 

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The rear bumpers are the same but the fronts are different because of the different turn signal assys. I can get some pics tomorrow of the taillights and bumpers. Front fenders for 68/69 are the same 70-74 are the same. The difference is the size of the hole for the side markers. Hoods are the same. Rust areas are lower part of front fenders, around the rear wheel housing openings, sometimes in the area below the back window and the moulding lip on the hood. Floor pans and trunk pans are very common rust areas also.

I won't be able to do interior pics of my 69 as it was a race car that I am putting back on the street. I don't have any of the original interior for the car. It is being assembled with non original front seats but a stock back seat that has been modified because the car is back halved.
 

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Pics would be awsome
Also where are some bad rust areas to look out for?
he said the counter panels have been done floors pans and trunk floor i think. Also said he has new front fenders, so are they different between the years?
O ya and the hoods and bumpers never changed did they?
He also has new interior so if thair are some 69 interior pics that would be great to.

Thanks for the info
If it had a vinyl top pull the glass and check the lip where the glass sits!!
 

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68's with a V8 use the short water pump and the alternator is on the drivers side.
69-72 with a V8 use the long water pump and the alternator is on the passanger side.

You can see pictures of the different years here, Nova brochures.

A lot of Nova information can be found at Nova Resource.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Not sure if its an SS or BBC but if not ill probably make it one. What about rusting in the roof, just the common areas around the glass? So would it be worth it the get him to remove the rear glass and have a look?
IM going to check it out tomorrow and will post up pics for you guys.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Pics






Comes with original but mint front fenders, cowl hood, original hood, original buckets, and a bunch of misc parts. It also has a saginaw 4 speed and 10 bolt rear. No motor. New quarters installed, all the metal to finish it and its been dipped.

How hard is it to do the rear tail light section?
 

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Pat, I hope your getting that Nova real cheap because it's gonna cost a bunch to get it back on the road. Just remember that primer hides alot of problems... Don't believe everything you are told by a seller either. Down here that would be a 200 dollar car in most cases unless the seller has been watching auctions on TV all week long.... If you are getting it cheap, great! If you have some basic skills, a fat wallet and a decent set of tools you could have a sweet Nova in a few months :cool: :cool: Best of luck with it :cool: . Keep us posted with lots of pics and updates.


Tommy :)
 

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You asked about rust issues Pat. Check around the windshield real good with a small screwdriver since its out allready. If they have filled it with plastic or fiberglass filler you will find it. Also do the same around the back window. Other areas will be of course the front floor pans, trunk pan, bottom of the front fenders, bottoms of the doors (look inside underneath), the radiator core support at the bottom, the passenger inner fender and around the battery tray, the hood directly behind the chrome molding on the front (you will have to take this off to see the rust) and check the top of the dash around the windshield as well. Also check the quarters over the tops of the wheels by feeling behind the fender lip for fiberglass or filler and just generally running your hands all over everything....

One other important thing is to make sure the trim tag is on the car as well as the VIN on the dash. If either is missing, its no more than a parts car because it becomes a headache when you buy a car without its numbers.


Tommy :)
 

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Heed tommy's warning about primer and not taking the owners word on everything. I bought my car from a kid completely primered front to back, looked great sitting in front of his house and he told me the body was clean and minimal filler was used before he primed it. Turns out they put just as much filler on it as they did paint. Good luck, that thing is going to need a lot of TLC but if you got the money ans the time then it looks like a worth while project
 

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I could be wrong, but from what I can see, it's a 69 none SS and not a BB car.
Post first half of the VIN and the cowl tag numbers, so we can tell you more about the options.
 

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I would say it is a 6 cyl car...but I have seen a lot worse get saved. Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Really you dont think its worth it? Um its been dipped so all the rust is out in the open (meaning that its not going to come through later). Its had new quarters, floor pans, trunk pan. New front fenders and hood. I checked all the areas you mentioned tommy and they are all fine, with minimal work around the rear window and front. Also needs the rear tail light panel and quarters to be finished up, but nothing major. The only thing im unsure of is the lower quarter, (last pic) not sure what goes their or if i weld it up like that or have to add another piece. Also it has papers so shouldnt be a problem with the vins. Its not a big deal wether or not is a BB car or an SS. Yes their is alot of work to do but all the major body work is done. Where i live in Canada you pretty much have to do quarters , floor pans, etc.

Any other suggestions?
 

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Can we ask what you're paying for it or the asking price?
 

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Asking $2500
PS how did you identify that it was a 69?
I think its a good start that needs some love but $2500:eek: is way to much.
I wouldnt pay over 1k and thats pushing it more like $500-$800 range. I see plenty of 68-72 running and in way better shape for $2,500. Now I dont know how easy they are to find in your area but I would keep looking.
 
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