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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a front disc conversion that came with a new master cyl, prop valve and brake booster.

After I got everything installed, bench bled the master and bled the lines I went for a 10' drive. I couldnt stop the car. I pushed with all my might and got the car to stop idling forward. So clearly something is broken or not installed correctly.

When I first installed the booster I pushed on the brake pedal to see how it felt. I did this before installing the master cyl. Is it possible that pushing the pedal without the master could have broke the booster?

When I lift the brake pedal with my foot right now with the car running I can hear a lot of hissing from under the dash. Vacuum maybe?

Even with a bad booster I would think I would be able to stop the car similar to manual brakes right?

Thoughts?

Ohh its a 9" booster and I dont have a radical cam. The old booster was 11" and it stopped easily with my 4 wheel drums

Thank you all so much
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I installed the push arm in the same hole that the previous one was in for the old booster. I assumed it would be the same. I also got the length of the push arm within an 1/8" of the original one.
I read the engine would run bad if there was a big vacuum leak, I did notice when I started it up it seemed to idle super high.
 

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Ryan, unfortunately the brake booster is leaking, 2 clues you gave were, #1 it's making a hissing noise, #2 the engine idles super high now.
 

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Ryan, a suggestion, if you still have the 11" booster you took off install it with the new m/c to see if the system works proper.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ryan, a suggestion, if you still have the 11" booster you took off install it with the new m/c to see if the system works proper.
Thanks Mike! I read this just in time. I had to run out to the curb and dig through the trash to get the old booster out of the bottom. And thats saying something because I have a kid in diapers still.

But I have it and I will try and install that this weekend. I hope Im able to without rebleeding the brakes
 

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Ryan, you shouldn't have to remove any brake lines from the master cylinder to swap the booster if done carefully. Once it's unbolted from the booster you should be able to pull the m/c away enough to remove the booster. It's worth trying! Good luck and let us know the outcome.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ryan, Got any good news for us?
Hey Mike! I was on a little weekend trip. But I just swapped out the booster with the stock one. You nailed it! The car stops now! Im guessing it was just bad from the factory. But either way it works just fine now. Im going to get the broken one swapped out and then reinstall it when it arrives.

The pedal feels a little soft, but Im wondering if thats just not properly bled brake lines. Thoughts on that?

That was a pretty big job for my level but Im proud that I actually installed it right and it was just a part defect. I'll post a picture of them here in a few mins.

Thank you Mike and all that commented. Steves Nova Site makes me feel like a real mechanic :yes:
 

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Ryan, great job!! Glad you were able to swap out the booster to get to the bottom of the problem. The next time do not :no: press the brake pedal until the master cylinder is on.
I would bleed the brakes again, sometimes it takes several attempts the get all air out. I like to use a Phoenix brake bleeder, it starts at the rear & pushes the fluid with air up & out at the master cylinder.
In my opinion, working on your own car is a gratifying experience, you will get to know the car better than anyone, you will build a connection with it so keep going & keep learning, it's worth it!

Mike
 
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