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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for a power booster/master cylinder setup. I came across this one. It stated that I need to dent the strut tower some. Is there a way around that? How much of a dent? https://www.ebay.com/itm/231778092423. I'm trying to keep this disc conversion on a budget, is there a more inexpensive setup that you know of? Thanks '66
 

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Booster Dents

Perhaps you could install just a new master cylinder and see how you like it without a power booster. One step at a time.
 

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I have that same booster and did not have any clearance issues, this is on a 63.
The front brake 3/16th line from the master cylinder was almost touching the tower so I tweaked the line just enough for more clearance.
 

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This one says drum/drum. I want to go disc up front.
I think the guys name is Rudy.
You might call him
I have 4 wheel discs on my 67 with this booster
 

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66 Chevy II, 67 Chevy II, 65 C10
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Ever thought of using a hydroboost?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A 7" booster won't help him. Pre 67 novas have single pot master and 67 has duel pot master. 67 novas have the dent in the shock tower from the factory!
I'm aware of the single pot m/c. Im switching it over to a 2 pot m/c with disc/drum.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I have that same booster and did not have any clearance issues.
The ebay one or Modern Performance one? Seems like a hassle trying to go with a booster. Is there a small setup where nothing will hit, or should i just go with manual? How much of a difference with a 2 pot and disc up front compared to a 1 pot with drums all around?
 

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I've got that same 7" booster on my 64 with an ls swap. No clearance issues, but it's a little snug around the rear coil packs.
 

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Back in the day, before everyone and his brother had a disc brake kit on Ebay, I used a Chevette booster and the disc/drum master cylinder from an early 80's disc/drum GM mid-size car. It's a narrow m/c and offers good room for the brake lines to clear the fender.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
In order to avoid that strut dent issue, I decided to just go manual. These are the parts that I'm getting and from where. Does anyone else offer a better deal? Thanks. https://www.performanceonline.com/1962-67-chevy-nova-black-out-series-disc-brake-conversion/ ,https://www.performanceonline.com/Master-cylinder-and-proportioning-valve-kit-firewall-mount/ , do I need to buy this whole pre-bent brake line kit or do I just need to change out a line or 2? If I can get away with 1 or 2 lines, better .https://www.performanceonline.com/1...ISC-BRAKE-CONVERSION-LINE-KIT-PRE-BENT-18374/
 

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Mike is that the Durango deuce? What kind of vacuum did you have to work with that booster?
The cam was fairly short - 240°/240° @ .05, the smallest of the Camcraft Torque Monster lobes so the intake vacuum was not too bad.

I used the vacuum pump and reservoir from a late 80's Volvo to keep the vacuum up. It was check valve steered with the intake manifold so we had really good vacuum. When the intake vacuum went high on deceleration it would bring the reservoir down, and if it couldn't keep up the pump would come on. I had two vacuum gauges in the cockpit, one for the brake system and one for the crankcase vacuum.

I used Wilwood discs up front and they worked very well.
 

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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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Mike, Using the components you used back in the day, did you have any problems mating those parts and how well did it fit to the brake pedal?

sc2Dave, I bought a similar setup and the master cylinder did hit the spring tower. I didn't dent it as I was looking for another MC that stood up instead of the low profile one that came with the kit. Spent a lot of time looking and decided to give up until the time comes to do the brakes. A tall MC would solve the problem but never did find one that would accommodate the Disc/Drum setup.
 

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Mike, Using the components you used back in the day, did you have any problems mating those parts and how well did it fit to the brake pedal?
No problems. As I recall I modified the mount for the booster to line the pushrod up with the bottom hole on the pedal and made a clevis that was the right length. My welding skills are limited but effective in most cases.

The M/C is early, before they switched to metric mounting dimensions so it bolts right on to the Chevette booster. I may even have this exact unit on a shelf somewhere.
 

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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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I would certainly be interested in any part numbers, etc. you can give me as I would really like a smaller booster and M/C that will work with my Disk/Drum setup.
 
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