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When I am at an idle, for example a stop light or a stop sign... My car seems to like to overheat. I was thinking about replacing the radiator with an aluminum one, or if that doesn't solve it, I am debating on getting rid of the belt-driven fan, and getting some electric fans to come on when the engine gets to (x) amount of temperature.


Ideas anyone? post to this thread, message me on AOL Instant messenger at NovaSuperSport73 or send me an email at [email protected]

-(Preemptively) Thanks for the help. :cool::):cool:
 

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When I am at an idle, for example a stop light or a stop sign... My car seems to like to overheat. I was thinking about replacing the radiator with an aluminum one, or if that doesn't solve it, I am debating on getting rid of the belt-driven fan, and getting some electric fans to come on when the engine gets to (x) amount of temperature.


Ideas anyone? post to this thread, message me on AOL Instant messenger at NovaSuperSport73 or send me an email at [email protected]

-(Preemptively) Thanks for the help. :cool::):cool:
do you have a fan shroud?If not..you need one..its an important part of your cooling system.
Maybe your system has an air bubble?You might need to burp it...also try water wetter.....water wetter and a clutch fan cured my overheating problems.bm
 

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Based on the info you've supplied, nobody can make a decision on an aluminum fan and or electric fans for your car. More info on what you have for the complete cooling system and engine details are needed. The tuning of the ignition (plus whether you have vacuum advance and the vacuum source)and carb situation are also key ingrediants to knowing what we are dealing with. There are plenty of people running resonably stock engines and stock cooling systems, that don't have any issues so there has to be something(s)different that is contributing to the problem. Sometimes the aluminum rads and/or electric fans are the solution.
 

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Sounds like an airflow problem to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll have to try the aluminum radiator 1st, then I'll take a swing at the water wetter. If that doesn't work, I'm not sure what I'll try.
 

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I have an aluminum big radiatir on my bbc 496 with a 14" electric fan no shroud and in the summer if it idled or I drove at a slow speed I would creep up to 215-220. I changed the electric fan to a taurus electric fan and trimmed it to fit in my space and now when I turn it on it keeps my engine at around 180 no matter what.:yes:
 

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I'll have to try the aluminum radiator 1st, then I'll take a swing at the water wetter. If that doesn't work, I'm not sure what I'll try.
Why would you do that....$7 vs $400 and way less work?Pour it in vs drain fluid,take out old radiator,put in new radiator,fill back up.......First rule of trouble shooting...try the easy stuff first!bm
 

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I don't think the radiator will solve your problem.
 

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I don't think the radiator will solve your problem.
I dont think so either. the only way that would cure your problem is if the radiator was clogged big time. It definitely sounds like an airflow problem. Does it have a fan shroud? Does it have a clutch fan and is it working? Another thing to try is putting an electric pusher fan in front of the radiator to help move the hot air.
 

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I agree with airflow. If a car overheats when there is no air flowing, it's airflow. If a car overheats on a hill or when going down the freeway, more than likely coolant flow or lack of. Water wetter won't help much on an airflow or a clogged radiater. My suggestion is an auxillary electric fan, A junkyard Taurus or Mercedes fan will get the job done, Just mount it in front of your radiator with those plastic ties.
 

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I agree it's an airflow problem. Again, do you have a fan shroud? What kind of fan is on there now (solid 7 blade, solid 4 blade, clutch fan, flex fan, etc.). Is the fan properly positioned in the shroud? The fan should be half in/ half out of the shroud opening. If you have a flex fan, toss it in the trash and get a fixed blade fan, it made a world of difference on my big block. You gotta watch using a pusher fan with a mechanical fan, sometimes the electric fan can become an additional restriction when running. Start simple with a shroud and good mechanical fan.
 

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I if it idled or I drove at a slow speed I would creep up to 215-220. I changed the electric fan to a taurus electric fan and trimmed it to fit in my space and now when I turn it on it keeps my engine at around 180 no matter what.:yes:
ditto - 2 speed Taurus fan, $20.00 at wreckers. I had just the be cool aluminium rad and standard mech fan, no go, still hot.
The top L brackets are also from the front cowl of the Taurus I got the fan out of. Some good links on the site regarding install and wiring.






 

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Based on the info you've supplied, nobody can make a decision on an aluminum fan and or electric fans for your car.
Fully agree, do you have stock pulleys, what about the tune, is there vacuum advance, what about condition of the radiator, is there a shroud?

I don't think the answer to every cooling problem is throwing money at it with an aluminum radiator and electric fan. Personally I think electric fans are are a PIA. I like to keep things simple, adding relays, wiring and switches isn't really simple.

I have the stock 3 row in my car with a 383 and no cooling problems what so ever. The stock shroud is there, the fan blades split the edge of the shroud, I also run vacuum advance. It's simple, it's maintenance free and it works well. The only thing different from stock is the fan is reverse rotation because of the serp drive. I think the crank is pulley larger than the pump pulley compared to stock also. I'll take better cooling over a few HP loss any day as with under drive pulleys.

 

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try ,,,,

you might try a couple bottles of Pro Blend Racing formula in the engine too. I used to sell it and it works. It will pull 20 degrees of water temp out of some engines. I had a disagreement with a factory rep is why i no longer sell it , but i still use it . Most of the big blocks i've been around do what your experiencing. I'd put the biggest fan on it I could find , best shroud, best radiator , and i'd consider a cowl type hood to get the air out from under the hood in as many ways possible. You might get a new radiator cap with a higher pressure rating , or a new one with the same rating. Sometimes the spring in the cap gets weak with age. I'd also wrap the headers to further decrease under hood temps. If your using a vacume advance , i'd use the ported connection of the carb , and i'd put a slow mechanical advance curve in the distributor and i'd use the biggest exhaust pipe and best mufflers i could afford
 

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If your using a vacume advance , i'd use the ported connection of the carb , and i'd put a slow mechanical advance curve in the distributor
Hate to disagree but this will put more heat in the heads, the burn will be late finishing in the exhaust port. The reason behind vacuum advance is to keep the motor at peak efficiency. Using ported it will not function at idle. Exactly where he's trying to keep his motor cool.
 

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ahh ,,, but

the more advance , the more heat ,,, I don't like ported vacume advance , but on a street big block is about the only time i'd use it that way. The water temp gauge on a big block make me nervous anyway. I had a friend with a 427 in a 66 chevelle , it would go to 240 in traffic on a mild day in the fall. I didn't even like to ride around in it.
 

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very interesting

Best of tech has some good pointers for timing. It also specifies overheating at idle-a possible cause and cure. This is just part of the cooling system. There's a bunch more.

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11689
very interesting , thanks for posting ,, hmm ,, old wifes tales are meant to be destroyed with truth and knowledge,, i was just posting what i've saw work ,, but that guy sounds like he's really in the know.

I've messed with several chevys from the 60's and i never saw one that had the vacume advance connected to manifold vacume factory ,, but i'm sure they're out there. I've changed several over to manifold because it just seemed like it worked better. I've changed them back and forth to see which way worked the best and always went back to manifold because it seemed like it had to help cruising MPG
 

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When I am at an idle, for example a stop light or a stop sign... My car seems to like to overheat. I was thinking about replacing the radiator with an aluminum one, or if that doesn't solve it, I am debating on getting rid of the belt-driven fan, and getting some electric fans to come on when the engine gets to (x) amount of temperature.


Ideas anyone? post to this thread, message me on AOL Instant messenger at NovaSuperSport73 or send me an email at [email protected]

-(Preemptively) Thanks for the help. :cool::):cool:

hi, i installed two electric fans in front of my howe aluminium radiator. yesterday i tried it first time. at the stop light the temperature went over 200 and when i switched on both fans, it has been cooled down to 140 in 20 seconds:



cu
carl
 
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