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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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I have dakota digital for a 63 and really like them

no tie in for headlights, just high beam indicator
comes with new elec sending units for temp, pressure and speedo all with wires
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh yes...not headlights! My oil pressure, temp, gas gauge, turn signal indicators, gauge lights are fed through factory wiring harness... How did you hook those up on yours?
 

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found the correct wire that goes into existing gauges and spiced into new unit

and small micro processor box is where the wires attach to, then one network cable to the gauge pack
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
found the correct wire that goes into existing gauges and spiced into new unit

and small micro processor box is where the wires attach to, then one network cable to the gauge pack
Okay that makes sense. Did you use a particular type of connector for the splices or did you solder?
 

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wires go to the micro processor unit, wire terminal for each hookup

all your individual wires could go to the processor or you could make a connector or two or three

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What one could do is go back let's say 6-8" back from the original plug and cut the wires.

Now put these wires into a 14 position connector.

After figuring out the location of the control box, get wires of the right color and length to where the mating plug can splice into those wires and then attach the other ends to the control box.

If you get a second mating plug, one could put that on the end of the short section of wires to the factory plug end hat was cut off to where later one could put the old dash back in and have it be a plug and play type setup.

Something like below might work as it connects to 16-18 gauge wire. Granted this one is more weatherproof but there are plenty of other quick disconnects out there. You just have to make sure it's for the right gauge wire. Amperage should be low on all f that wiring anyway so no worries there.


Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What one could do is go back let's say 6-8" back from the original plug and cut the wires.

Now put these wires into a 14 position connector.

After figuring out the location of the control box, get wires of the right color and length to where the mating plug can splice into those wires and then attach the other ends to the control box.

If you get a second mating plug, one could put that on the end of the short section of wires to the factory plug end hat was cut off to where later one could put the old dash back in and have it be a plug and play type setup.

Something like below might work as it connects to 16-18 gauge wire. Granted this one is more weatherproof but there are plenty of other quick disconnects out there. You just have to make sure it's for the right gauge wire. Amperage should be low on all f that wiring anyway so no worries there.


Jim
I like this idea because damaging the original harness is something I would rather not do. I will just need to find a plug that will mate up with the plug that plugs into current gauge panel and has a little length that will allow me to connect to the Dakota processor. Of course, I would need to find a location for the processor to be mounted. I guess next step is to get my current dash apart...
 

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I wasn't worried about damaging the original harness since I installed the AAW update kit when doing my installation. I didn't want to rely on 40 plus year old wiring and chase problems in the future from the age of the wires. That being said I de-pinned the wires needed for indicators etc. from the plug that went into the back of the original gauge cluster and ran those to the Dakota modules. The Dakota kit will come with their own sending units and wire harnesses so that will limit what "Factory" wires you will need.
I believe you will only need to use a 12 volt wire, ground, turn signals, high beam indicator and tach signal. The temp, oil pressure and any other add ons you may want will have their own harnesses from Dakota Digital. Just a heads up the Dakota system requires the use of a VSS or a mechanical to electrical converter for your speedometer unless you use the gps option like I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I wasn't worried about damaging the original harness since I installed the AAW update kit when doing my installation. I didn't want to rely on 40 plus year old wiring and chase problems in the future from the age of the wires. That being said I de-pinned the wires needed for indicators etc. from the plug that went into the back of the original gauge cluster and ran those to the Dakota modules. The Dakota kit will come with their own sending units and wire harnesses so that will limit what "Factory" wires you will need.
I believe you will only need to use a 12 volt wire, ground, turn signals, high beam indicator and tach signal. The temp, oil pressure and any other add ons you may want will have their own harnesses from Dakota Digital. Just a heads up the Dakota system requires the use of a VSS or a mechanical to electrical converter for your speedometer unless you use the gps option like I did.
My Transmission is out of a 2004 Mustang GT with stock electric sending unit. It has 2 wires as I recall. I am hoping the stock Ford sensor in the transmission will work with the Dakota setup.
 

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I just installed this very same vhx unit from Dakota Digital. You leave your light switch and only connect to the dimmer wire coming from the light switch. Tap wire and go to the dim port on the control box.
If my memory is correct, I think it was dark brown, but you need to check as I have a 76 model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay, thanks. That's helpful. I will need to compare the Phoenix and 76 nova diagrams... For the Phoenix thus far I have been using the 77 Nova but I will compare that with the 76 wiring diagram ... I know I'm going to have to use the WW switch from the 75 Omega also... That will be a minor wiring job there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I am slowly wading into this and have some questions...

1) Where is the best place to mount Processor? My main harness is in lower left (2 circled plugs). So I'm thinking mount processor on left. Not much room there so I'm thinking I will need to remove duct for side AC vent. The AC has been removed and vent allows very minimal ventilation.

It would be good for the processor to be as accessible as possible and within reach of the harness. I will extend the harness pictures by several inches with the part of the harness that attaches to the printed circuit.

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Well I figured out the duct for the left side AC vent needed to be removed.
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Looks like there will be plenty of room for processor to mount around here... Much more room now that the AC duct is out. I think there will be enough slack for me to hook everything up to the processor and then screw it on.

Blocked off the empty hole with duct tape.

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I will plug printed circuit harness (2 plugs) into main harness to give me plenty of slack... Here are plugs ...
Circuit component Electrical wiring Amber Electronic component Cable


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Here is Phoenix printed circuit I cut them off of...
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Here are plugs attached to main harness...
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I need to move the Hi-Beam indicator and BRAKE light wiring back to instrument panel in the new cluster...I had moved them under dash because aftermarket speedometer I had been using didn't have those features.
I'm thinking the current Tach and speedometer wiring should be adaptable.

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Most other wiring that plugs into processor will come from the oil pressure, water temp sensors & harnesses both supplied with Dakota Digital kit.
I THINK the current fuel gauge sensor will work with Dakota cluster and also the current speedometer sensor from my 2004 Tremec 3650 transmission.
Like I said, I'm going slow...but at least I'm on my way!
 

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Will the controller be behind your instrument panel ? I may be looking at the pictures wrong. If the answer is yes, how accessible will it be?

I made a bracket that basically sticks out at the bottom of my dash (but out of sight) pointing back towards firewall. My controller then set on top of the bracket under the dash but is easily removed and lowered if I need to add/change any connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the suggestion. I like the idea but the underdash area on the Phoenix (4th gen) is really crowded with headlight, wiper switches and P-brake release on the left of the steering wheel and radio & heater control on the right. It would maybe be possible to locate processor over closer to the ash tray but would need to add a lot of wiring so the main harnesses would reach over there. I am hoping to get everything set up correctly before I put bezel and cluster back on. Otherwise, yes, I would need to remove bezel to make any changes to the processor wiring.
 
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