CPP / Church Boy Upgrade

68062 Views 340 Replies 44 Participants Last post by 67 church, Jan 18, 2011

Smittys62

Discussion Starter · Jan 16, 2009 (Edited)

5

I got my CPP lower Church arm kit the other day:yes: The CB Rack and cross member has been sittin in the garage for some time now waiting on the CPP stuff. I am still waiting on the Coil Overs from CPP hopefully they will get here soon.

I just started to take some stock stuff apart tonight. Time to work on the Nova is slim to none around here..

.. This up grade might take me a while. Well I was able to get the drag link (is that what it’s called?) out tonight. It looks like my front strut rods and stock cross member is bolted on so that should be rather simple to remove.

Walt, if you’re out there, can you check to see where CPP is with the coil over kit? Thx

Here is a B4 shot. I just put it up on the ramps.

Here is the passenger side B4, man I should of gotten the upper, my stockers look pretty bad.

Driver side B4 shot

Here what I was able to remove tonight. That was fun, NOT!!

Looking better already

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TomM

· #2 · Jan 16, 2009

The fun has just started. You're gonna save a few hours having bolts instead of rivets.....keep us "posted"......

Looks good so far...

T,

Nova 404

· #3 · Jan 16, 2009

You are so lucky! it looks like your strut rod pockets are bolted in.The worst part of that job is drilling out all those rivets.

Vin63

· #4 · Jan 16, 2009 (Edited)

Excellent! Please keep us posted on your progress with photos at different steps along the way. I wish these components were available when I built my car.

TomM

· #5 · Jan 16, 2009

truckntom73 said:
TomM said:

The fun has just started. You're gonna save a few hours having bolts instead of rivets.....keep us "posted"......

Carefull cutting with a torch and pop them out with a punch took me 15 minutes per side.
Tom

Click to expand...

Dang... you had a torch?.....

Gotta get one of those some day....

T,

boyds67wagon

· #6 · Jan 16, 2009

I was just going to take the cut-off wheel to it. Any one tried it yet?

Vin63

· #7 · Jan 16, 2009

boyds67wagon said:
I was just going to take the cut-off wheel to it. Any one tried it yet?

That's what I use... cut-off wheel on my angle grinder and take the heads off. Then I'm able to punch out the rest of the rivet.

Smittys62

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jan 16, 2009

Wow

Sounds like some fun was had by the rivets. Glad mine is only bolted on with nuts and screws

I may get some time under the car today

wishful thinking with my two boyz (3yr and 4yr) runnin a muck:turn: Is there a particular order to this? I guess I need to support the car differently cause im on the ramps now. I guess some tall jack stands. I hate working under jack stands

surfdog

· #9 · Jan 16, 2009

Your uppers look better than mine did! They cleaned up nice with a wire wheel, POR-15 and Eastwood chassis black. If I had to do it again, I think I would go for powder coating.

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Smittys62

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jan 16, 2009

Hey surfdog, is the paint not holding up? I am looking for some options on cleaning some of the old stuff that will be put back on.

67 church

· #11 · Jan 16, 2009

Smittys62, before you get the jack stands out and everything off and you can't move the car, unbolt your headers and get them out of the way. I know what you mean about having the little helpers mine are 1.5, 5, & 7

3DTim

· #12 · Jan 16, 2009

67 church said:
Smittys62, before you get the jack stands out and everything off and you can't move the car, unbolt your headers and get them out of the way. I know what you mean about having the little helpers mine are 1.5, 5, & 7

And one on the way :devil::devil:

TomM

· #13 · Jan 16, 2009

boyds67wagon said:
I was just going to take the cut-off wheel to it. Any one tried it yet?

Yep tried it, no go on the wheel, you can't get it in the pockets at the back rivets. Those have to be drilled.....

I used a sawz-all with a short metal blade on the front ones and was able to cut them flush, and then knock them out, the back ones are just a PITA.

Smitty...bro, you gotta do somtin with dat fuel line though, it's scarin' me where it is. You can go up over the upper a-arm, and go throught the fenderwell with a grommet.

T,

Borrelli's65SS

· #14 · Jan 16, 2009

TomM said:
Yep tried it, no go on the wheel, you can't get it in the pockets at the back rivets. Those have to be drilled.....

I used a sawz-all with a short metal blade on the front ones and was able to cut them flush, and then knock them out, the back ones are just a PITA.

Smitty...bro, you gotta do somtin with dat fuel line though, it's scarin' me where it is. You can go up over the upper a-arm, and go throught the fenderwell with a grommet.

T,

I did mine with a cut-off. Cut a slice into the top like you're splitting it, the cross it again so it looks like a phillips head rivet, lol. A blade punch cleans it up and they pop out. I got pics of mine I'll probably post soon.

Smittys62

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jan 16, 2009

Okay, should I just take out the driver side? Ill take a look under there now. I think the Lil ones are napping

Wife gone today helping a friend with her wedding

Great!!!

Smittys62

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jan 16, 2009

TomM said:
Yep tried it, no go on the wheel, you can't get it in the pockets at the back rivets. Those have to be drilled.....

I used a sawz-all with a short metal blade on the front ones and was able to cut them flush, and then knock them out, the back ones are just a PITA.

Smitty...bro, you gotta do somtin with dat fuel line though, it's scarin' me where it is. You can go up over the upper a-arm, and go throught the fenderwell with a grommet.

T,

Hey T ya know what? im glad you noticed. I have always been a little worrisome of where it was run. I had no idea where to run it and that was a strait shot to the pump. I will definitely re route it, I was just telling myself this last night while under the car, "Wow that look real bad" Thx for the advise!!:thumbsup:

66nogo2

· #17 · Jan 16, 2009

Smittys62 said:
Okay, should I just take out the driver side? Ill take a look under there now. I think the Lil ones are napping Wife gone today helping a friend with her wedding Great!!!

Get busy Man! They will be up and she will be back before you have time to jack up the car.

My crumb munchers are 4 and 7 both girls which makes it hard to work in the garage with all the screaming

TomM

· #18 · Jan 16, 2009

Smittys62 said:
Hey T ya know what? im glad you noticed. I have always been a little worrisome of where it was run. I had no idea where to run it and that was a strait shot to the pump. I will definitely re route it, I was just telling myself this last night while under the car, "Wow that look real bad" Thx for the advise!!:thumbsup:

If you look at the area where your front subframe bolts to the body, there should be a hole already drilled in the flange between the two, kinda up high. I am pretty sure this is where the original line ran, along the edge of the frame, on top of the lip, and then made a left through the firewall. I don't have a picture of my wheel well, but here's a shot from the top. The hose coming throught the firewall is from the tank, and has a 90* -an fitting on it.

T,

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surfdog

· #19 · Jan 16, 2009

Smittys62 said:
Hey surfdog, is the paint not holding up? I am looking for some options on cleaning some of the old stuff that will be put back on.

I was more referring to the time and effort of cleaning and painting. Paint is holding up just fine so far. I don't drive it that much, just a few miles to the beach and back when the weather's nice. I sprayed my new 1" Eaton lowering springs with Rustoleum gloss blk.

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Smittys62

Discussion Starter · #20 · Jan 17, 2009

TomM said:
If you look at the area where your front subframe bolts to the body, there should be a hole already drilled in the flange between the two, kinda up high. I am pretty sure this is where the original line ran, along the edge of the frame, on top of the lip, and then made a left through the firewall. I don't have a picture of my wheel well, but here's a shot from the top. The hose coming throught the firewall is from the tank, and has a 90* -an fitting on it.

T,

I took a quick peek under there and BAM!!! The boyz were awake:bounce::devil::bounce:. Man I messed around and got all excited when I saw the new package on the porch, it was my coil over kit

it made it!! So during my short peek I did not see a clear path through the firewall for the fuel line. I like how you came through the fender well with yours and also the Positive battery cable. That’s just another thing on the list that will get change on this go around. The other two braided lines are your tranny cooler lines, right? Looks good, thx for the pics. If anyone has a pick of a clean fuel line for a mechanical pump please post as it will need to be routed during this procedure. Thx again!! Smitty

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