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Discussion Starter #1
Good day,
Anyone have some thoughts on cpp’s c5 brake kit for 69-74 nova’s, do they actually keep the stock drum brake track width?
My car was originally drums and when switched Over to disc they rubbed a little
And the time has come to replace brakes to due to being well used and worn. I can get wilwood 12.xx 4 or 6 piston kits for a pretty good price but they state that it will kick my track width .20” per side
I found cpp c5 kits and they say there kits keep drum brakes track width.
So if i get the cpp c5 kit will it actually give me my clearance back and won’t rub anymore..
Appreciate any input
Thanks!
 

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If the disc brakes you put on were Chevelle based design they could be pushing your wheels out 5/8” per side with an overall track with increase of an 1.25”. This can be even more complicated if your car is lowered and/or you are running larger wheels and the wrong offset/backspace.. The Camaro LS brakes and the C5 kits are similar as they use the OEM drum brake bearing hub and when you remove the drum and install the new rotor hat on the hub the difference is extremely minimal.. The difference will be the thickness of the rotor hat face vs. the old drum brake face where the wheels are mounted.. I don’t know the actual dimensions but it should be something like an 1/8” per side and maybe a 1/4” total overall track width..

The real difference is where the wheels are mounted relative to the stock drum brake hubs.. The Chevelle disc rotors are more outboard which is why there is an increase in track width.

Pictured is a 98-02 Camaro disc brake assembly. It is very similar to the C5 setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
They have a kit that uses the stock c5 hub
That interests me along with taller spindle
 

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You will have to determine whether the taller spindles and C5 hubs maintain the zero or very minimal off set and also whether you will need to use different upper control arms.. Usually tall spindles require a different upper control arm to complete the improved suspension geometry. Typically the arms are shorter to improve the negative camber gain characteristics when going to a taller spindle.. An alternative method to increase negative camber gain is to preform a Guldstrand modification..
 

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I'll let you know

I'm currently installing this setup with Hawk ceramic pads. I'm using the Right Stuff detailing master cylinder/booster/proportioning valve from the conversion kit that I was unable to use due to the +.500" offset of their kit. Replaced all of the brake lines to mate up with the RSD master cylinder/proportioning valve. Also installing new CPP upper and lower control arms, Helwig swaybar, Proforged tall outer tie rod ends (to reduce bumpsteer), Bilstein shocks and Moog springs, inner tie rod end, adjusters, pitman and idler arm.

I'll post up when completed with all of the work regarding the "offset" issue but, there is one thing that you must consider when using this kit. Although the offset is not supposed to be changed from your original drum brake offset, the wheels are critical for clearance to the caliper's outer face. I had to do some modification to the caliper to get the 17" US Mag "Rambler" wheels to fit without rubbing the inside of the spokes. Even with the mods it will be REAL close until the pads wear some which will move the outer edge of the caliper inward. See below
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have 18” us mag hustlers
And just realized my bolt pattering is 5x4.75 and not 5x120.6
What are you using Bella’s dad
 

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I'm currently installing this setup with Hawk ceramic pads. I'm using the Right Stuff detailing master cylinder/booster/proportioning valve from the conversion kit that I was unable to use due to the +.500" offset of their kit. Replaced all of the brake lines to mate up with the RSD master cylinder/proportioning valve. Also installing new CPP upper and lower control arms, Helwig swaybar, Proforged tall outer tie rod ends (to reduce bumpsteer), Bilstein shocks and Moog springs, inner tie rod end, adjusters, pitman and idler arm.

I'll post up when completed with all of the work regarding the "offset" issue but, there is one thing that you must consider when using this kit. Although the offset is not supposed to be changed from your original drum brake offset, the wheels are critical for clearance to the caliper's outer face. I had to do some modification to the caliper to get the 17" US Mag "Rambler" wheels to fit without rubbing the inside of the spokes. Even with the mods it will be REAL close until the pads wear some which will move the outer edge of the caliper inward. See below
I think that fitment is way too close.. I would put a wheel spacer between the wheel and the rotor to gain some clearance.. You may need longer studs as well.
 

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I think that fitment is way too close.. I would put a wheel spacer between the wheel and the rotor to gain some clearance.. You may need longer studs as well.
I would have done that before I did all of this work but I don't have the clearance between the tire and the fender. Adding a spacer would be an absolute last resort and would negate the main reason I purchased the C5 brake/spindle kit.

What I have done since the photo was taken was, 1) shimmed the caliper guide pins so the caliper can't move any further outboard from the spindle. 2) I had the machinist "re-radius" the outer edge of the caliper where it was closest to the inside of the wheel.

With those modifications, even if the inboard pad is remove completely the caliper's outward travel is mechanically limited so it can not touch the wheel. In that worst case scenario it's close but it does not touch.

Bleeding the brakes this afternoon took up the slack between the pistons, pads and rotors which "centered" the caliper on the guide pins. I now have a little more than 1/16" clearance at the tightest spot on the wheel. As the outside pad wears, the caliper will move inward which will provide more clearance.

If all this doesn't work as I expect I have 2 options. Option 1 will be looking for different wheels shaped to clear the calipers which is where I was at when I started this adventure. Option 2, add spacers, longer studs and rework the fender for clearance. At least the suspension and steering will be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm currently installing this setup with Hawk ceramic pads. I'm using the Right Stuff detailing master cylinder/booster/proportioning valve from the conversion kit that I was unable to use due to the +.500" offset of their kit. Replaced all of the brake lines to mate up with the RSD master cylinder/proportioning valve. Also installing new CPP upper and lower control arms, Helwig swaybar, Proforged tall outer tie rod ends (to reduce bumpsteer), Bilstein shocks and Moog springs, inner tie rod end, adjusters, pitman and idler arm.

I'll post up when completed with all of the work regarding the "offset" issue but, there is one thing that you must consider when using this kit. Although the offset is not supposed to be changed from your original drum brake offset, the wheels are critical for clearance to the caliper's outer face. I had to do some modification to the caliper to get the 17" US Mag "Rambler" wheels to fit without rubbing the inside of the spokes. Even with the mods it will be REAL close until the pads wear some which will move the outer edge of the caliper inward. See below
Did the brake kit come with the spindles?
The Canadian supplier is tell me that there separate
 

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Did the brake kit come with the spindles?
The Canadian supplier is tell me that there separate
Yes, spindles, hubs/bearings, rotors, calipers pads and SS hoses. You will need to change the lug nuts/locks to metric 12x1.5mm.

I upgraded to Hawk ceramic pads because I wasn't sure about the stock pads (they didn't have noise suppressor shims bonded to the back and weren't chamferred.) Ironically the suppressor added to my clearance issues because they moved the calipers outward by the thickness of the suppressor shim.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, so I ordered the c5 brake kit from summit racing today and should land in my door step within 8 to 10 business days.
I’m going to take note of current disc brake positive offset and with that I hope I can shorten my track width back to drum brake and see how much it pulls in my track width
Along with that I’ll be replacing all ball joints and possibly getting my buddy to powder coat the spindles for me as I hate rattle can paint jobs!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow I must say. Ordered the kit Monday night from Summit Racing, received it in my Northern Ontario town on the 3rd day. But I’m going camping till Monday so I won’t get to open the boxes until I return☹
 
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